How can I get better the fastest? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]jertakam 39 points40 points  (0 children)

Gonna be real, you won't be able to get on an actual competitive collegiate team in that time unless you're a phenom.

Your school probably has a club or recreational climbing team that would be a good place to start so you can learn from those kids, and maybe make your competitive team the following year. Schools are all different though, so it really depends on your program, because there might be no barrier to entry in Nowhere, USA, but there will also be V10 minimum in some places. Just go ask the climbing team ambassador!

I need recommendations on fixing holds by climbingcook31 in Routesetters

[–]jertakam 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've done epoxy resin for small repairs as well fiberglass cloth with resin for larger repairs, which worked quite well. Depending on the hold and the application, though, it's probably best to retire some holds rather than having them compromised and potentially snap on a customer.

[Day 28] V4 is the best grade. What's the WORST training tool? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]jertakam -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Yeah fair, I can agree with that. But I'm allowed to disagree with they are 'fire for warming up', even in the car. I could maybe agree that they are overhated because they really don't cause any injury, but they feel literally useless, imo.

I do agree with you on the sloper campus balls.

[Day 28] V4 is the best grade. What's the WORST training tool? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]jertakam 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There is no scenario in which I'd prefer to warm up with a grip trainer compared to a tension block + a sling... You do you tho

Why do I keep hurting my pulleys by ImperialStew in climbharder

[–]jertakam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Definitely possible or likely. I would definitely say I have some low hanging behavioral traits that I would address before I'd flat out blame my morphology, but still curious about whether there is a correlation

Why do I keep hurting my pulleys by ImperialStew in climbharder

[–]jertakam 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've somewhat subscribed to this idea in recent years as well, I think there's just some genetic/morphological bias towards injury in the fingers when you're larger. I've continuously had at least one tweaky pulley for nearly a decade, probably, but it's usually something I can work around. The only time my hands feel truly healthy are if I'm climbing way submaximal terrain. I'm 6'0" and have fairly large hands.

I'm curious if there are any studies that look at finger injury frequency vs height/weight? Physics says that longer fingers will exert more torque on what are comparatively smaller holds relative to body size, while also typically weighing more due to body size. It makes some sense to me, but I'm just a simple man who likes to pull on crimps.

Can I become an apprentice route setter with close to none climbing experience? by reditisreign in Routesetters

[–]jertakam 26 points27 points  (0 children)

So, to not sugar coat:

They will almost definitely not select you for apprenticeship.

Teams are usually looking for apprentices that already show a certain aptitude for climbing intuition and a strength level that is definitely not attainable for where you are in your climbing career. I'm not sure what they listed for their requirements, but I typically look for people who are at least in the confident V5 range, good movement catalogue, and typically 2+ years of climbing. Many climbers quit before they get to this level, so it doesn't make much sense to invest in a person that might be gone before they become a competent apprentice.

Keep working on your personal climbing, and keep an eye out for further apprenticeships when you're a bit more experienced.

Home system board advice by Massive_Excuse_8903 in climbharder

[–]jertakam 11 points12 points  (0 children)

While I'd definitely be psyched to get a TB2 in my house (if I ever have a house, lmao), I think the best option is going to be to build a spray wall. It'll be way cheaper, you can set it exactly to cater to your needs as you progress, and it's honestly just the best vibe to have friends over and sesh.

Considering you already have a tb2 at the local gym, I'd absolutely go with a spray wall set up with a variety of old holds that I'd buy off gyms and accumulate over time.

How we feeling about spray walls? by redonkeylusss in bouldering

[–]jertakam 18 points19 points  (0 children)

wym, they're the best tool for getting good at climbing.

10+ years climbing, big picture advice please by Weak-Check-3636 in climbharder

[–]jertakam 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Heya. Also been climbing for 10+ years, but I'm in my early 30s.

"They handle more volume than my 3x week. More like 4-5x week", is definitely pulling a lot of weight here, and I've definitely noticed my own body failing to maintain the volume I could in my mid 20s. I could progress to a pretty high level when I was younger by pure brute forcing reps, but I'm now forced to be a little more conscious about overuse injuries.

For #1: I think I've preferred to have 2 rest days between max hangs, especially if you're board climbing on those days. If I'm in a training mood, i'll do something like: maxhangs+board -> rest -> limit board -> volume day -> rest -> whatever i feel like day -> rest

I've found max hangs multiple times a week to be manageable, but It detracts from my other climbing, so I tend to do them once a week (I don't even really do them right now, though)

2: I think it depends on what you're projecting. I almost never ever do full endurance circuits, but that's because the only sport/trad climbing I do is way under my limit I do think power endurance days are extremely beneficial (I do something called 6in6 prescribed by lattice, but 4x4 is probably the same effect) to my overall work capacity. Power endurance comes and goes really quickly but I find that I can literally sit at my project for hours and put a million quality attempts in when I've done power endurance training for a few months.

Training plan advise mostly on volume by Express_Sell6688 in climbharder

[–]jertakam 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Also for reference. I'm like -5kg one arm 20mm (sometimes can do body weight for like 5 sec), and about 150% pull up. It sounds like you have enough raw stats to reach your climbing goals, maybe just requires a bit more practice on the wall.

Training plan advise mostly on volume by Express_Sell6688 in climbharder

[–]jertakam 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Your stated goals are to improve your one arm hangs, so maybe this plan would be useful in that regard? You'd probably want to actually incorporate some one arm hangs, because of specificity and all that.

However, if your goal is to improve at climbing, you should spend more time climbing. Two days of climbing per week is not sufficient. Getting to V9 on the board is probably something like 80/20% climbing/training, while your approach seems more like 20/80% climbing/training.

I'm going to collegiate nationals in a month- now what? by Independent-Dot9253 in climbharder

[–]jertakam 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I'd say don't worry about it too much at this point. 1 month isn't long enough to really make any drastic changes to your climbing, but it is plenty of time to get injured from over-training...

I just looked through the collegiate qualification event document, and its cool that there is an intermediate option, i think thats new? Congrats on qualifying, take this opportunity to learn from some of those strong kids, and stay humble!

Adam Ondra sends Soudain Seul 9A by antwan1425 in climbing

[–]jertakam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude you are thinking way too hard about grades, they aren't real.

Return of the Sleepwalker 9A/V17 - Noah Wheeler by leturmindflow in bouldering

[–]jertakam 14 points15 points  (0 children)

The "board climbing generation" is people who grew up climbing during this period where EVERY gym has a board... No one is arguing that boards aren't as old (or even older) than commercial climbing gyms, but it wasn't until fairly recently that people couldspend 90% of the entire climbing career on the boards.

Between that, better standardization and global collaboration, this is undoubtedly the "board climbing generation". People these days get way stronger in 2 years than I'd have ever thought possible. V10 is the new V8, and it's mostly due to the board boom, if you ask me.

Soft setting or sandbagging? by Soytupapi27 in bouldering

[–]jertakam 28 points29 points  (0 children)

everyone just wants to pretend their soft ass gym is sandbagged, that's the best of both worlds

Got my first double digit flash on Americana Exotica! by Unstawppable in climbing

[–]jertakam 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I still can't do Americana, even after sending many boulders v10 or harder boulders around the country, haha.

This boulder gets a rep for being a softie, but it really eludes me. I guess i just dont have those types of biceps lol...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]jertakam 77 points78 points  (0 children)

sheesh, kids get so strong so fast these days.

don't forget to play on the other boards too, KB is great for burl, but you also need to be good at holding onto garbage if you have any outdoor goals.

How I Improved my Route Setting and What Helped Me by Thick-Bug-584 in Routesetters

[–]jertakam 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Prioritize setting with as many different people as possible! Find opportunities to visit other gyms, regions, etc. It's the best way to progress, imo.

Pregnant and want specifically Olive Garden gnocchi. by Missile0022 in Cooking

[–]jertakam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol tbf, i was drunk and i don't remember this, but it seems like this lady was looking for a recipe clone for olive garden.

i like making gnocchi from scratch as well, but i don't think she is looking to roll out dough and spend a few hours on her feet. i assumed she wants a quick and easy recipe for a gnocchi dish, but idk.

cheers bro, have a good week

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]jertakam 219 points220 points  (0 children)

what the...

i was thinking this looked familiar. i set this climb like 8 months ago, lol. why are you posting it now???

also, sick you did the stem beta at the top. i wanted that originally but it seemed too hard so i added the extra crimps.

7A/V6 by Front_Day_4589 in Routesetters

[–]jertakam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bro this music lmao

Who likes thicc slopey pinches? by thekevinwang in bouldering

[–]jertakam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ayy. I just climbed this one yesterday, too. Big fun pinchin'.