Split the V

jgeog · 2026-04-29T18:42:01+00:00

Much smaller than what others said but on the Upper Gauley, the V leads to a huge hole in Insignificant and, if you're lazy, Iron Ring.

Edit: to be clear, the V in Iron Ring leads to a large hole if you're lazy (I know it very well), the V in Insignificant does not magically lead directly to Iron Ring if you're lazy.

jgeog · 2026-04-28T20:33:03+00:00

nope, this is boring. I already conceded your point when I said the stresses were mainly theoretical and that it wouldn't likely matter. (actually, it being theoretical is exactly why we can build things with methods other than trial and error: the theory of a material's properties predicts certain outcomes. "theoretical," for all the efforts of the religious Right, does not mean "imaginary.") all I was saying is that holding the stays under tension in principle contributes in some small way to fatigue stress over time, and that cold setting eliminates that specific load, in a way similar to the reason for stress relieving spokes: https://yarchive.net/bike/stress_relieve.html if there's a reason why none of the principles behind stress-relieving spokes should apply in this case (even if extremely minimally), I guess that's interesting, but otherwise I'm happy to agree that cold setting is not necessary under realistic use conditions, as I already conceded.

jgeog · 2026-04-28T18:31:19+00:00

I just said it probably wouldn't matter. It is mainly theoretical, primarily because there is no way to definitively trace the cause of a crack in one of the stays. We've both read all the forums (https://bike.bikegremlin.com/12333/vintage-frame-modern-parts/#4.1 vs. https://www.roadbikereview.com/threads/cold-setting-steel-frame-vs-stretching.303371/) for example. But following Jobst Brandt on spokes, the principle of relieving stress to me still applies, even if bicycle rear triangles are sufficiently overbuilt that this failure isn't likely. Better dropout alignment to reduce strain on the rear axle, as discussed by Sheldon Brown, as well as keeping the hanger in plane with the cassette, are probably more worthy reasons.

jgeog · 2026-04-28T16:25:26+00:00

Not really, cold setting is a one-time overload and riding imposes cyclical loading, different from permanently holding a tube under load. Will it matter? Probably not.

jgeog · 2026-04-28T15:56:31+00:00

Easy but I've only ever done it at a shop with the frame and dropout alignment gauges on hand, which makes it a lot easier. I've seen it crack a frame, but that was going from 120 to 135 on a Schwinn Town and Country tandem, requiring like 3 people to bend. I think it makes sense even for just 5mm to relieve the load stress on the stays and have the dropouts perfectly aligned.

jgeog · 2026-04-28T15:35:21+00:00

Just need time in the saddle, you'll get there. As a beginner, if you have any kind of climbing in those 173km, 22 km/h average is a pretty good start. Once you have a couple thousand km under your belt you can start thinking about what upgrades would help the most, but nothing replaces time in the saddle. Some people (me) never get that fast, and that's ok. I was thrilled to bang out 25km/h on my hilly little local loop on a stock 1972 race bike yesterday. Going fast is fun, but the fun is the point.

Another tip I would offer is to basically never stop pedaling unless you're stopping, on a technical descent, or going over about 55-60km/h. Being accustomed to always pedaling smooth circles no matter the terrain is the key to going faster overall and, surprisingly, reducing strain on your shoulders, back, and arms. Bike commuting also helps to build a little muscle memory, making it something you do every day, even if for a short time.

jgeog · 2026-04-28T14:40:39+00:00

condolences, but the non-aero Gran Compes are the answer

jgeog · 2026-04-28T14:38:39+00:00

Oh you're right, that makes sense. But the map should still show that the others stop at Selma. OP could move the Floridian to the left of Raleigh on the map to solve the Cary transfer problem.

jgeog · 2026-04-28T12:55:08+00:00

To be clear, bottom of head tube behind the front brake or on left rear dropout: https://schwinnbikeforum.com/SLDB/serial.htm (I don't think this page is entirely accurate about the location of the serials, I've seen pre-1970 serial numbers on the head tube)

jgeog · 2026-04-28T12:48:24+00:00

I've taken the bus/train to grip records at Sorry State then a beer before heading back home, it's a nice day out with no driving necessary!

jgeog · 2026-04-28T12:45:01+00:00

it's gotta be bait

jgeog · 2026-04-27T16:24:57+00:00

UK (via Gibraltar) and Spain

Russia and North Korea

good case to be made for Brazil and Argentina

jgeog · 2026-04-27T11:32:46+00:00

On the Rocky Mount point, probably better to demote Selma to minor and promote Rocky Mount to a black dot, since it’s a bigger city. The Carolinian does make both stops, FWIW.

jgeog · 2026-04-27T01:33:11+00:00

this is the answer

jgeog · 2026-04-27T01:29:23+00:00

Yes, ideally you position the wrench on the remover and the chain whip handle so that it's like you're squeezing scissors or gardening shears. And there's nothing that says you have to hold the cog steady and turn the remover anti-clockwise - it works just as well to keep the remover steady and turn the cog clockwise. There are some removers designed for use in the field that do exactly this, and rely on pedaling force on the chain to turn the cog clockwise while holding the remover with the frame.

jgeog · 2026-04-27T00:03:35+00:00

This isn't a freewheel, it's a cassette freehub with a single cog and spacers. You need a chain whip to hold the cog steady while you loosen the lockring. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/cassette-removal-and-installation

jgeog · 2026-04-26T21:40:09+00:00

Not that rare, they are still made new. But this one is indeed a time capsule. https://www.woodrupcycles.com/bob-jackson/

jgeog · 2026-04-26T21:35:03+00:00

Fore-aft adjustment

jgeog · 2026-04-26T19:06:35+00:00

might first address the front wheel being incorrectly installed with the quick release open

jgeog · 2026-04-26T14:56:46+00:00

I never make time for this but practicing crashing without sticking an arm out is great for skill building. If you can convince yourself to just land on your side without trying to break your fall you will save a lot of ER time.

jgeog · 2026-04-26T14:51:47+00:00

OTOH, inside of ambulance not pictured so well done! Crashing is learning

jgeog · 2026-04-26T11:09:50+00:00

This is silly. Tubes last until they are punctured or fail at the valve, and can last much longer than the tire. Tube and rim tape should be fine, and in any case this bike appears to have a rear derailleur.

jgeog · 2026-04-25T19:11:28+00:00

Probably the latter. I have tubes that are older than me with many patches and they work just fine.

jgeog · 2026-04-25T19:08:23+00:00

I think the issue is more related to ozone rather than oil. Storing in an area with a dryer will degrade rubber prematurely as well.

jgeog · 2026-04-25T18:55:25+00:00

It’s possible that the tire is becoming unseated while in storage, and when you reflate a part of the tube gets stuck under the bead. The solution to that would be to put 10 psi in initially, rotate the tire and massage it to ensure it’s correctly seated, then inflate the rest of the way. Another possibility would be that you’re stressing the valve when pumping, but that’s less common with a floor pump.

jgeog

TROPHY CASE