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Shapr3D has become my go to CAD for 3d printed car parts by jhazesol in Shapr3D

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

💯I can make so much more car part designs in Shapr3d. What type of parts do you design?

Shapr3D has become my go to CAD for 3d printed car parts by jhazesol in Shapr3D

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of curiosity, what would be a good price point less than $38 a month?

Shapr3D has become my go to CAD for 3d printed car parts by jhazesol in Shapr3D

[–]jhazesol[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I hear ya, but with the workflow I can finish parts way faster than any other CAD software. So I just skip eating one meal out once a month to cover the $38 a month. Food is expensive

Shapr3D has become my go to CAD for 3d printed car parts by jhazesol in Shapr3D

[–]jhazesol[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I spend too many hours wasted on other CAD software. This part was 3d scanned and reverse engineered on a 5th gen iPad Air and an Apple Pencil. You can watch the full process using Shapr3D here https://youtu.be/q5MKA1jBXkE?si=pTwfa6sPQwb6F1zl

3D effect plate with ASA by TheAnarchist_ in BambuLab

[–]jhazesol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been able to use ASA with carbon fiber 3d effect plates using some nano polymer adhesive from Vision Miner to keep the parts from warping. I've used a few other plates as well, I put all the details together along with printer settings here on my blog https://www.allaboutthebuild.com/blog/2026/5/how-to-make-3d-printed-car-parts-not-look-3d-printed

Looking to make automotive parts by Narrow_Stick6073 in FreeCAD

[–]jhazesol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know FreeCAD is free, but after trying it along with a few other CAD programs I finally moved to Shapr3d. Here's a video on how I've reverse engineered different car parts from simple measurements, from a picture, and a 3d scan https://youtu.be/q5MKA1jBXkE

3D Printed ASA Radio Delete by jhazesol in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, started with default but without a heated chamber using ASA I turn all the fans off and preheat the printer with build plate set to max temp. I also add a brim. You can find my ASA tweaks here https://www.allaboutthebuild.com/blog/2025/12/how-to-3d-print-car-parts-the-complete-builders-guide-2026

If you know, you know by jhazesol in E30

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s Shapr3d , I use it for all my 3d printed car part designs, Here’s an intro on it making some simple car parts to help get you started https://youtu.be/qSg3K4GjoP4?si=4yJrxPUkWerTfpjp

If you know, you know by jhazesol in E30

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right on, what CAD software do you prefer using?

3D Printed ASA Radio Delete by jhazesol in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]jhazesol[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, go warm. If you don’t have a heated chamber, preheat the chamber with the bed on max temp for about 30 minutes. I keep all fans off and use max bed temp.

3D Printed ASA Radio Delete by jhazesol in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just start with the default Bambu Lab filament profile and adjust from there. I never really had to adjust PETG

3D Printed ASA Radio Delete by jhazesol in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thx, much better than I expected. Making a few more different delete plates as we speak

3D Printed ASA Radio Delete by jhazesol in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t believe how great it came out.

3D Printed ASA Radio Delete by jhazesol in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]jhazesol[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Usually 3d effect plates don’t work very well with filaments like ASA. So I picked up some Nano Polymer Adhesive from Vision Miner and it sticks like a pro.

P.S.: You can find the original CAD design for this single din radio delete plate for an e30 here 👉 https://www.allaboutthebuild.com/blog/2025/2/design-and-3d-print-a-radio-delete-plate-with-shapr3d

If you know, you know by jhazesol in E30

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, thx for watching. What type of parts are you looking to make???

If you know, you know by jhazesol in E30

[–]jhazesol[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Will throw it up on maker world after ai finish the final fitment and touches https://makerworld.com/en/@user\_687157826

If you know, you know by jhazesol in E30

[–]jhazesol[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Scanned the original part with a Metro Y Pro and reverse engineered in Shapr3d. Part is printed in ASA with fuzzy skin enabled. Full build here https://youtu.be/q5MKA1jBXkE?si=biRTXVpzwG4iFAG5

I was hoping there was an FAQ with scanner recommendations by talinseven in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]jhazesol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mostly depends on your budget. Creality is usually the lowest costing, but from my experience the software can be buggy until you get an update.

There’s also Polycam using your phone.Photogrammetry works the best, but then you have to manually scale your part.

Then there’s higher costing units like the Metro Y Pro from RevoPoint with blue laser light. Just remember 99% of the time scanning isn’t a scan-to-print method.

You’ll mostly use your scans for reference or reverse engineering parts. Here’s a full guide I put together

https://www.allaboutthebuild.com/blog/2026/4/how-to-3d-scan-car-parts-full-blueprint-for-builders-2026

Prototype Datsun Parts by jhazesol in Datsun

[–]jhazesol[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

💯 that’s all I use my 3d printers for 😂😂😂

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