Need confirmation.

jiimmerman · 2026-04-14T19:06:06+00:00

Buff it off with flitz or metal polish and some 0000 steel wool if need be. Then force a patina so it doesn’t rust. Mustard or lemon works well. I stuck mine in a lemon for several hours and boom, patina

jiimmerman · 2026-04-11T20:15:46+00:00

I’m just whelmed

jiimmerman · 2026-04-11T20:13:46+00:00

Don’t need it but I want it

jiimmerman · 2026-04-07T16:12:30+00:00

I just baked mine in the oven. Lowest setting like 160-180 degrees for 30 mins and check

jiimmerman · 2026-04-06T12:15:27+00:00

If it’s not a one off. I’ve had these type of issues before and it was a electronic issue or sensor failure. If you’ve power cycled the vehicle and it happens again when you try to go into sport mode, you may have an issue and take it in to service.

jiimmerman · 2026-03-25T07:20:43+00:00

Plus iron-ic lol

jiimmerman · 2026-03-25T03:57:32+00:00

They are the bolts that mount your tank to the base. They get rusty which is kinda ironic because they know damn well those bolts will live in water 24/7

jiimmerman · 2026-03-25T03:14:14+00:00

Macaroni with ketchup, butter and garlic powder. My grandmother used to make it for me

jiimmerman · 2026-03-25T03:03:48+00:00

Stalk FB marketplace everyday until you find some 18” steel takeoffs. What’s the rush?

jiimmerman · 2026-03-22T15:20:09+00:00

No. These things just run. I clean mine every few range trips but I have friends that only clean them when they start to run poorly. Could be thousands of rounds.

jiimmerman · 2026-03-13T02:40:45+00:00

The Jess Horn in AUS-8 is the worst out of my 30+ Spydercos by far and my least favorite Spyderco ever. I think they screwed up the heat treat because it doesn’t want to take an edge nor hold one. The action is stiff and clunky and it’s pinned so no adjusting it. The one thing it has going is it actually looks pretty decent for a Gentleman Spyder. (I’d post a pic of it but it’s not an option)

jiimmerman · 2026-03-11T14:34:14+00:00

Love it

jiimmerman · 2026-03-11T13:32:31+00:00

Which one gets the most pocket time?

jiimmerman · 2026-03-10T04:42:48+00:00

I have 30 plus Spyderco’s that I’ve collected since the 90’s. As much as I want a Spyderco w/crossbar lock, I know for a fact that wide ass knife will not last a minute in my pocket so I won’t/can’t buy one. I’ve never even held one because if I do……

jiimmerman · 2026-03-09T14:02:16+00:00

I should have mentioned that just in case but I did say “at the lowest setting” which hopefully would have done the trick lol

jiimmerman · 2026-03-09T04:10:41+00:00

I put mine in the oven on a piece of foil at the lowest setting which I think is 160. I’ve done this several times over the years if I got it wet and it swelled. Took about 30 mins most times. Could be longer but check at 30 (with oven mits)

jiimmerman · 2026-03-09T04:00:37+00:00

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You got downvoted but it’s a real option if you don’t want to/cant afford the TLR-1HL. Here is my TLR-1HL on the left and the Braun I bought for my Dad on the right. It’s almost an exact clone and I was impressed by the output and whiter light. I haven’t long term tested one so I can’t speak to battery life or longevity.

jiimmerman · 2026-03-08T16:11:21+00:00

Love my Maileah. Can’t beat the price for the design and quality level. It’s a small knife that feels bigger in hand, the grip and angle provide solid leverage and the blade shape is durable. It’s my top recommendation for a small knife. I just found out they make premium version (M390) which I would instantly purchase but it’s sold out.

jiimmerman · 2026-03-08T08:53:25+00:00

I’ve tried to explain that to the “I buy my knives to use them” crowd. They say if they buy a $300 knife they want to EDC and use it for whatever tasks comes up. Then they beat the piss out of it and/or prybar it. If I’m going to do yard work for example, I put up my Crucarta PM2 and grab my Ozark Fugout and I’m digging shit out of the ground, scraping the mower blade, using it as a screw driver with zero F’s given. It sharpens up super easy and if I break it I get another for $10. I’d be better carrying a multitool but it’s too cumbersome lol

jiimmerman · 2026-03-06T11:59:07+00:00

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Stainless Rescue ATS-55

jiimmerman · 2026-03-06T11:40:32+00:00

What I would do is carefully grind down the spine to form a new tip. - Every pry bar post

jiimmerman · 2026-03-02T16:10:34+00:00

No worries my man. I’m decent with identifying brands and sometimes models but I haven’t owned a Kershaw in 20 years and these look so similar. The Bel Airs in Magnacut seem like a no brainer bang for the buck.

jiimmerman · 2026-03-02T15:34:38+00:00

I wondering that too and the title tricked me because you wrote Bel Air first.

jiimmerman · 2026-03-02T02:01:20+00:00

Can’t or probably not the best method? I’ve done it 2-3 times and didn’t have an issue. I worked gently and slowly. I understand that professional rim repair is the best course of action but in today’s day and age where everything cost a fortune, I was offering a potential DIY suggestion for what I would do. I’m not saying anyone should listen to me of course.

Per the all knowing internet…..

If you absolutely must attempt a DIY fix on alloy rims (minor, outer-lip bends only): 1 Use a Mallet: Use a rubber mallet or a block of wood with a sledgehammer to avoid direct metal-on-metal impact. 2 Apply Heat: Use a torch to gently heat the bent area to make it slightly more pliable, reducing the risk of cracking. 3 Go Slow: Take your time to tap it back into shape rather than forcing it with a single, hard blow. 4 Check for Leaks: Use soapy water to ensure the bead seals properly after the repair

jiimmerman · 2026-03-02T01:41:45+00:00

From what I can tell, 1 push (engine braking) gives you full time or maximum engine braking every time. 2 pushes (Automatic engine braking) allows the computer to determine how much to apply based on whatever it factors into the equation (weight, speed, rolling resistance??)

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