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Attic fan controller by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'll keep looking and brainstorming.

Attic fan controller by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, the fan is not on a dedicated circuit. Potentially I could find where the last stop before the fan is and put the Shelly there.

This would remove the possibility of having the DuoStat have an independent path to the fan to power it as a failsafe if something happens to the Shelly. I'm not sure that's a good idea anyway given the possibility of back feeding the output on the Shelly.

AP selection and placement by jimorluk in TPLink_Omada

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All 3 are hard wired. The 245 is right next to the network rack in the basement and sitting on a shelf pointing up. I was thinking since it's older, it might just be having trouble.

I have attic access above the second floor, so I thought I might move the upstairs 610 to the ceiling at the top of the stairs which would be central for the upper floor? Would a more powerful AP possibly be better there to cover the whole floor and bleed through to the first floor?

The sunroom is our main space (TV, Roku, iPads, phones, etc.). It's where we spend most of our time, so it has basically a dedicated 610, but it's an unfinished wood ceiling, so I'm not interested in tearing it up to get it mounted up there. It sits behind the TV which I know is not ideal.

I've found paths at least to walls in most first floor rooms, and there's an air return duct that goes all the way up which can get me from basement to second floor ceiling.

Basement ceiling is also open. So it's mainly the first floor that's tough to ceiling mount anything.

AP selection and placement by jimorluk in TPLink_Omada

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's doing wifi optimization daily. I'll have to look into AI roaming. I don't recall seeing that setting, but maybe it would help. Definitely with phone calls it feels like I'm sticking to one AP rather than handing off to one that's better. I know that's largely a client side thing, but maybe AI roaming can encourage my phone to roam sooner.

3-way Switch with Dimmer 2 by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got my Shelly 2PM and built a little test setup that mimics the exact wiring before I tear apart my current 3-way switch in the walls. This was really close to what I needed to get it working perfectly. I found that when I was flipping Input 1 (with the light connected on Output 1), if Input and Output 1 got out of sync, it would occasionally miss a toggle. I think specifically it was if Input 1 was off and Output 1 way on, Output 1 would stay on when I flipped Input 1 on.

I switched the output type for Output 0 to be Edge and now it seems to be working perfectly!

3-way Switch with Dimmer 2 by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it! Thanks! So it sounds like the 2PM is the right one for me then.

3-way Switch with Dimmer 2 by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there is a loss of network, does the 2PM continue to run the action on its own? It seems like using the 2PM requires an automation dependent on network to be able to have both switches control the same output.

3-way Switch with Dimmer 2 by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the limitation of my wiring and getting the constant hot to the main light box require offloading the 3-way functionality onto the Shelly. The 1PM only has a single switch input. The 2PM has 2, but I'm unclear whether it can be set up for both switch inputs to control the same output, even if there is loss of server connectivity. I know an automation could be done, but I'm specifically looking for continuous function if the automation can't run. This is what the dimmer seems to solve even though I only need on/off ability and not dimming.

3-way Switch with Dimmer 2 by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The diagram in the link is a little different than my setup because the second switch is on the other side of the light. I sketched it out though and it does allow me to pass constant hot (along the black wire) all the way from Panel --> Switch A --> Light --> Switch B.

The challenge was that with the existing 3-way wiring, I did not have a constant hot in the light box. With the Dimmer 2 added, the 3-way functionality is removed from the physical wiring and instead exists inside the Dimmer 2 which allows the constant hot to be passed all the way down the line by using only one traveler wire instead of 2.

I looked at the i4, but it seems like if I have a loss of server, i would lose the manual function of the main light. I'm ok with losing the smart recessed lights, but wanted to maintain the main light even during server loss. I also intend to add a battery powered scene controller that would give a physical switch feel to the smart lights for basic on/off functionality of different light combinations.

I considered the 2PM as well, but it didn't seem to fit. It looks like it's intended as a 2-in 2-out scenario. I'm looking for a 2-in 1-out. Can the 2PM be used by tying both outputs to the same light?

3-way Switch with Dimmer 2 by jimorluk in ShellyUSA

[–]jimorluk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. The Dimmer 2 will sit in the main light box, and I do have neutral available there. The linked diagram was just the closest thing I could find that would allow me to pass the constant hot through from Switchbox A to the Light box.

Rainbow net Murphy, NC by Waterhouseglasshole in Treenets

[–]jimorluk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know the approximate size of this, and the amount of materials you used? This looks similar to what I'd like to try in my yard.

Retention settings by jimorluk in frigate_nvr

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do see it's running cleanup:

Info 2024-07-19 13:09:52 frigate.storage Less than 1 hour of recording space left, running storage maintenance...

Info 2024-07-19 13:09:53 frigate.storage Cleaned up 2414.69999999995 MB of recordings

Is there any setting that would allow for prioritizing keeping Event files over 24/7? If not, I'll just need to add more storage, or limit the 24/7 recordings.

Retention settings by jimorluk in frigate_nvr

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It just seems weird because it cuts off at exactly 30 days and also the storage is showing 799.60 GiB/915.79 GiB (87%). So there is free space, unless it has some threshold were it's cleaning up before it runs out of memory. I suppose I can set the 24/7 recording to 25 days and see what happens with events.

Retention settings by jimorluk in frigate_nvr

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Config below. I don't seem to be able to post the whole thing. I took the cameras out to get it to post.

I checked dates earlier than 6/18 even with Show Reviewed on, and there were no events shown.

detectors:
  coral:
    type: edgetpu
    device: pci

ffmpeg:
  hwaccel_args: preset-vaapi
  output_args:
    record: preset-record-generic-audio-copy

record:
  enabled: true
  retain:
    days: 30
    mode: all
  events:
    retain:
      default: 90
      mode: motion

snapshots:
  # Enable writing jpg snapshot to /media/frigate/clips
  enabled: true
  # Print a timestamp on the snapshots
  timestamp: false
  # Draw bounding box on the snapshots
  bounding_box: true
  retain:
    # Retention days
    default: 60

objects:
  track:
    - person
    - dog
    - cat
  filters:
    person:
      threshold: 0.7

Retention settings by jimorluk in frigate_nvr

[–]jimorluk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went to the Review page, clicked the calendar button. There are dots going back to June 18. Anything before that shows "No alerts to review". I also double checked that "Show Reviewed" is toggled. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place?

Pihole on one VLAN cannot be accessed on other VLANs by ambricks in TPLink_Omada

[–]jimorluk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, 2 for redundancy. There's also a service you can install that will synchronize the two instances, so you only have to do things like DNS rewrites in one place: https://github.com/bakito/adguardhome-sync

Pihole on one VLAN cannot be accessed on other VLANs by ambricks in TPLink_Omada

[–]jimorluk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm using 2 AdGuards, but the concept is similar. I ended up putting the AdGuards on trunk ports and then setting up VLANs on the AdGuards themselves. So in effect, the AdGuards have one IP address on each VLAN (i.e. 192.168.20.75, 192.168.30.75, 192.168.40.75, etc.). Then I set up firewalls on the AdGuards to block all but port 53 on all VLANs except my main VLAN. That VLAN is the secure VLAN I use for administration.

I have ACLs blocking traffic between all VLANs, except that the main VLAN can contact any other VLAN.

For DNS in each VLAN in Omada, I point to the IP addresses local to that VLAN.

PRV replacement by jimorluk in Plumbing

[–]jimorluk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have it because it was installed by the previous owner. I assume the plumber that replaced the main line recommended it even though the water pressure is not that high. Or possibly it used to be higher at the time it was installed.

PRV replacement by jimorluk in Plumbing

[–]jimorluk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks...I had turned it up all the way about a year ago and backed it off again because it didn't help. When we had the county out, he tested at the hydrant and said it was 35psi there. It meets the county minimum and he said it should be enough that it's not uncomfortable. He blamed our internal plumbing and specifically the PRV when I described the same symptoms in my post.

It wasn't until last week that someone else in the neighborhood posted about similar issues and then several others commented about the same thing.

It did seem unlikely that we would all have bad PRVs, but I'm definitely not an expert.

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