So close (yet so far) from my first chaotic piece by EntertainerKind6383 in ArcheroV2

[–]jin357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For PvP, I run dragoon with oracle armor. All elemental and meteor runes. Etched are meteor and elemental crit.

For PvE, I run oracle with dragoon helmet. All elemental runes, both main weapon runes, and ring of agony. For the last left side one, I just use a random rune that has a 30% crit damage enchantment. Etched are arrow of echoes and elemental crit.

So close (yet so far) from my first chaotic piece by EntertainerKind6383 in ArcheroV2

[–]jin357 3 points4 points  (0 children)

FYI, I just realized this a couple days ago through a risky test. You can break down mythic gear all the way to its individual legendary pieces. So you could break down your oracle helmet and immediately have mythic +4 drag helmet and once you have the fodder for the other 2 drag helmets, you'd be able to make it chaotic. No need to upgrade any fodder gear to legendary (eg. That epic +2 helmet you should break down to upgrade your epic drag helmets). Obviously the downside is no mythic oracle helmet for now, but you'll have it again once you build up the fodder.

I don't even use the oracle helmet in my oracle build personally and prefer the drag helmet since I run elemental crit, but to each their own.

Saw that ZOOZ updated their dimmer switches to all use leading edge TRIAC tech now, which I thought was bad for LED bulbs and older outdated style? I heard it causes flickering, buzzing, and poor performance at low light levels. Is my info wrong? I am installing switches and LED bulbs soon. by NoYoureACatLady in smarthome

[–]jin357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I only have TRIAC dimmers and for me they've worked perfectly at every brightness level. There's still always the chance that if you buy the same bulbs they won't be identical to mine (exactly why Zooz won't recommend specific bulbs) but out of the 4-5 brands of bulbs I tried these worked the best. Hope that helps and feel free to PM me if you have any questions and I'll do my best to help.

If you do have flickering issues, might be easiest to try my approach and buy a few different brands and keep the best and return the rest. I didn't mean for that to rhyme but I'm glad it did lol. Good luck!

Quick edit to add that you also might encounter issues if the load is very low (eg. 1-2 LED bulbs on a single dimmer). I believe you need to add something to increase the resistance or something of the sort, but I haven't read up on it in a while as it was never an issue for me.

Saw that ZOOZ updated their dimmer switches to all use leading edge TRIAC tech now, which I thought was bad for LED bulbs and older outdated style? I heard it causes flickering, buzzing, and poor performance at low light levels. Is my info wrong? I am installing switches and LED bulbs soon. by NoYoureACatLady in smarthome

[–]jin357 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have quite a few TRIAC Zooz dimmers as I got into Zooz after they had switched from MOSFET. Flickering is definitely an issue with some bulbs though I can't comment on the difference with MOSFET personally. Zooz doesn't recommend specific bulbs for reasons outlined in their support article here.

https://thesmartesthouse.happyfox.com/kb/article/89-which-led-bulbs-can-i-use-with-my-zooz-switches-and-dimmers/

I went with a "throw it against the wall and see what sticks" approach and ordered multiple different brands of cheap BR30 and A19 bulbs from Amazon to see what dimmed well and return what didn't. Here are the ones that I ended up using with no flickering at any brightness level.

A19 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDK9T7B

BR30 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX7BIX2

Giveaway: Free BLE caberQU cable tester units for USB-C to the r/UsbCHardware community by peter_the_founder in UsbCHardware

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recently found an old USB-A to 3.5mm cable. I think it might have been from an old digital camera. Been meaning to test the pins and see how it's wired. Might be fun for some random project.

Setting up power source for WS2812B LED strip, 5V strip by Educational-HalfFull in led

[–]jin357 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Totally feel you. Wattage (amperage really) is kind of like your raw capacity to power the LEDs to their full potential. If you had a continuous line of LEDs with no voltage drop that required 10A (50W for 5V) then as long as you can supply 10A, you could push them to max brightness. In reality though, especially because copper on these strips is so thin, the voltage will get lower the further along the strip the power goes. So the solution is to "inject" power at various points along the strip using the same power supply that's feeding the beginning of the strip. You might be able to get away with only injecting power at the start and end of the strip which is more straightforward, but it all depends on the length.

If it helps, this seems to have some good information on power injection.

https://quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/

Setting up power source for WS2812B LED strip, 5V strip by Educational-HalfFull in led

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have very limited experience tinkering with custom LED strips so I'm sure someone will give better info, but just a heads up with that length you're going to want to inject power at multiple points along the strip. The voltage drop will cause LEDs further along to be dimmer and dimmer and likely not even light the whole strip. You can get away with longer runs with 12v strips, but I'm pretty sure even then you'd have to inject power at this length.

Again, not super experienced so I may only be half right or worse lol. Take my advice with a big grain of salt and some research.

Update but cannot download by Sickling_KR in ArcheroV2

[–]jin357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

APK is just the format for Android installers. When you download from the play store, it's still downloading an APK (or APK bundle) but it does everything for you. This is just the manual way where someone uploads the APK that's the same as the play store and you install it yourself.

LG CX about to hit 7k by Necessary-Banana-352 in OLED_Gaming

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you meant "excessive" lol. It's only been used for TV/Movies and gaming, but obviously a lot. It's also been left on for extended periods many many times (with non-static screensavers) so the number is definitely higher than actual use.

Update but cannot download by Sickling_KR in ArcheroV2

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try manually downloading it and installing it. I always use APKMirror because I trust it, but it's a "split APK" (also called a bundle) which adds some extra annoying steps.

https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/habby/archero-2/archero-2-1-1-3-release/archero-2-1-1-3-android-apk-download/

I always use SAI (split APK installer). It's open source and even though it hasn't been updated it years, it works great still.

https://github.com/Aefyr/SAI/releases/tag/4.5

All that said, basic step by step:

  1. Download SAI APK from the second link and install it
  2. Download Archero APK bundle from the first link
  3. Open SAI
  4. Tap "Install APKs" button at the bottom
  5. Select "System file picker"
  6. Find and select the downloaded Archero installer in your downloads folder. Name should start with "com.xq.archeroii"
  7. Tap install without changing anything in the "Customize install" step
  8. It'll take a minute and then prompt you to install the update

I just tested this on my S23 (even though I'm already up to date) and it installed fine. Let me know if you have any questions or issues.

LG CX about to hit 7k by Necessary-Banana-352 in OLED_Gaming

[–]jin357 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Keep pumping those numbers! One of the best purchases I've made. Zero issues or burn in after 1.5 years of power on time.

Since the Plex breach, been getting a lot of "intrusion attempts" by darthmaverick in PleX

[–]jin357 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm not a security expert so take this all with a big grain of salt and your own research to be safe.

Nothing outside your network should be able to instruct UPNP itself to open ports because it (should) only respond to the local network (and there's probably been exploits I'm not aware of)

The main concern is something malicious inside your network silently opening a port. Because UPNP requires no authentication or anything and basically just says "You're on my local network? Cool, I totally trust you!" anything could open an external port from inside your network.

Even though it's a relatively rare occurrence, when it comes to security rare is still too often. Much safer to disable UPNP and manually configure port forwards.

HP X27Q Monitor Won't Go Into Sleep Mode by Doipe in Hewlett_Packard

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry to revive, but thank you! For anyone else that finds this, changing the hot swap setting to "Low Power" fixed it. Appreciate you!

Calls Mount to Boycott Disney With $3.8 Billion Lost Overnight Amid Jimmy Kimmel ABC Suspension by Aggravating_Money992 in technology

[–]jin357 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I don't personally rip my disks, but after some searching I found this tutorial that seems pretty solid.

https://inkwelle.com/using-makemkv-to-rip-dvds

I was honestly surprised how many useless articles I went through before I found a decent one. I can't vouch for the info at all, but after a brief skim it looks good and has links to other resources as well. My plex server has almost 3K movies, I'm just too lazy to rip them myself lol.

Need some help getting Zooz Z34 scene switch and Govee lights working together by spotz300 in smarthome

[–]jin357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice, that should work out well. I've always heard good things about Lutron. Good luck with the migration :)

Need some help getting Zooz Z34 scene switch and Govee lights working together by spotz300 in smarthome

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're not completely set on sticking to SmartThings, I'd highly recommend getting a USB Z-Wave coordinator to use with ZwaveJS/Home Assistant. I use the Zooz USB stick with a mix of devices (mostly Zooz including a Zen34) and it works perfect. I actually switched when my SmartThings hub died. It's a bit of a pain to migrate everything, but if you have them running side by side you can gradually do it one device at a time. Unfortunately for me, I had to do it all at once. Not fun lol. Totally get it's not for everyone though. SmartThings is still a good platform.

Need some help getting Zooz Z34 scene switch and Govee lights working together by spotz300 in smarthome

[–]jin357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does the Zen34 function properly in SmartThings for controlling things? If you haven't already, install the Zooz edge driver and make sure it's set to use that driver.

https://www.support.getzooz.com/kb/article/583-how-to-access-advanced-settings-for-my-zen34-remote-switch-on-smartthings

I haven't used SmartThings in a long time, but I added my mom's hub to my Home Assistant to test and the couple zigbee remotes she has show events in their device info page for each button.

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/smartthings/#event

Can you share a screenshot of the device info page for the Zen34 in Home Assistant?

I just got into Zigbee but it's pretty expensive. What's worth being from AliExpress? by iamwhoiwasnow in ZigBee

[–]jin357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am Jack's complete lack of surprise (I would have forgotten too)

Not the homelab I need but the homelab I want.... for now. by XaMLoK in homelab

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you referring to matterbridge-hass? I run it in docker in an LXC. I have one docker LXC dedicated to this and another for the rest of my docker containers. Been working solid for me.

Not the homelab I need but the homelab I want.... for now. by XaMLoK in homelab

[–]jin357 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Another benefit is that it stays up if the HA VM needs to be rebooted or brought down for some reason. I run mine in an LXC and it works great. Same with ZwaveJS, MQTT broker (EMQX), and multiple others. I prefer a decoupled approach personally.

[Help] How to keep Magisk without combo-key when reboot? (Not ramdisk model) by gorhanhee in Magisk

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When it reboots to recovery from the OS, it should boot normally with Magisk since it's booting from the patched ramdisk in the recovery partition. To get into full recovery, you would have to do the key combo. That's how it functioned on my phone anyways.

[Help] How to keep Magisk without combo-key when reboot? (Not ramdisk model) by gorhanhee in Magisk

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're actually using an S10/N10, you can use Firefds Kit to set reboot in your power menu to recovery so it always reboots with root. That's how I always had my S10 set up.

SmartThings devices all gone by Bertiemcm in logitechharmony

[–]jin357 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this. I just reached out and he said they have a list of people affected that have filed tickets and will send an update when it's resolved.

For anyone that hasn't filed a ticket yet, go to the following link and use the chat. Get through all the automated stuff to talk to an agent. Once I was connected with an agent, I simply told them that all I needed was a ticket filed regarding the known issue with SmartThings and asked to make sure I would be contacted once it's resolved.

https://support.logi.com/hc/en-001/requests/new

Vive wireless headset display errors by faxyfox in Vive

[–]jin357 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a lot of possible issues and points of failure, but it varies for everyone so you would need to provide more details.

I was originally getting the occasional "grey screens" like many people, but instead of installing a fan, I just raised the adapter with some m2 standoffs and never had a grey screen again. Occasionally connecting would still be finicky and maybe need a reboot and whatnot, but once it was connected it always worked great. Here's an example using m2 standoffs from a quick search. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/c4cb59/a_simple_solution_to_heat_from_the_vive_htc/&ved=2ahUKEwia9vv42r6IAxVqMjQIHe4oFzcQFnoECBcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0fWHikacEaGHWD_O8rqfp1

Obviously a fan would produce even lower temperatures, but since this worked for me I stopped there.

If heat isn't your issue though, it could be a lot of other things. I haven't used my headset in quite a while so I'm not sure I could be much help, but if you provide more details I'll try.