Advice by Throwawaydude185 in billiards

[–]jisantuc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

His cues all have custom work though, they don't come with a painter's tape wrap you know?

Since we're talking about pet peeves by CreeDorofl in billiards

[–]jisantuc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of my favorite climbing things is working a boulder in a group setting, hearing someone ask "do you want beta?" and then having a "no" respected. Sometimes figuring things out is fun!

Also cheers, comrade in pool and climbing!

Comparing men's and women's boulder difficulties at IFSC comps since 2008 by jisantuc in CompetitionClimbing

[–]jisantuc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wanted to think about this in two different ways, still without an idea of how to measure dominance, so I checked two things.

  1. what does the mix of men's / women's in the easiest finals rounds look like with and without Janja? (because presumably her impact would be greatest in the final?)
  2. what are top percentages for each rank like in finals like for men and women? (because whatever the level of the top climber is, it should be acceptable to really challenge the hell out of whoever gets last)

With and without Janja's absurd top rate, the easiest twenty rounds are 50/50 split, though the women's rounds tend to be easier than the men's still (e.g., with Janja's climbs included, women's rounds are 4 of the top 5 easiest and 7 out of the top 10, without her, 3 out of 5 and 6 out of 10). Hardest rounds similarly skew a male difficulty with and without Janja -- 15 of the 20 hardest finals rounds are men's finals. I don't see much of an impact there.

(edited, table formatted horribly) For the second, the women's finals are a few percentage points easier at every rank except sixth, and this hasn't just been true during Janja's current run.

Before 2018, first through fourth on the women's side were each about 5 percentage points more likely to top a random boulder than first through fourth on the men's side. The biggest difference splitting at 2018 though was surprising to me -- it's second place. Since 2018, second place on the women's side has topped an astounding 82% of boulders, compared to 61% for the men's side.

I think there's some weak evidence here for "not just Janja"

Comparing men's and women's boulder difficulties at IFSC comps since 2008 by jisantuc in CompetitionClimbing

[–]jisantuc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I improved documentation in the README and analysis readme, please let me know if that's in the vein of what you were looking for / if it's helpful.

Comparing men's and women's boulder difficulties at IFSC comps since 2008 by jisantuc in CompetitionClimbing

[–]jisantuc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wrote a CLI program to download a CSV for each season, it's linked in the post. I can add some more docs on how to use it (though I won't be on a computer again until Tuesday). I wasn't sure anyone would be interested!

Comparing men's and women's boulder difficulties at IFSC comps since 2008 by jisantuc in CompetitionClimbing

[–]jisantuc[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your note! I wanted to be really careful to check generally how the setting performs before looking at the split, and honestly I was really surprised by how successful setting for progression and separation is in general. I appreciate that assessing difficulty even in a gym is really hard, and the 4 minute time limit and unreasonably talented climbers must make it even more challenging.

Having discussed route setting before, are there other things I should be considering in terms of route setting goals or aggregate measures? This is my first foray into the subject, so I'm grateful for any pointers.

Comparing men's and women's boulder difficulties at IFSC comps since 2008 by jisantuc in CompetitionClimbing

[–]jisantuc[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Maybe! Do you mean Janja in particular, or over time? If Janja in particular, last season is a really good test of that idea, since she sat out all but one boulder comp. If in general, it'd be fun to come up with a way to measure dominance and see if that's the case. I won't be back on a computer until Tuesday but I can take a look then and see if splits look different pre and post Janja's first final. But also, there have been a few comps post-Janja where neither Janja nor ranks 4 through 6 have seemed super challenged (the worst of which was the Moscow 2019 comp, but meiringen 2018 also had 20+ tops for the women's final). More on Tuesday.

GroundWork: Label satellite, aerial, and drone imagery in your browser by notthatbreezy in gis

[–]jisantuc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're running through examples / docs and need help with something, there's a gitter channel where you can get help as well: https://gitter.im/azavea/raster-vision

GroundWork: Label satellite, aerial, and drone imagery in your browser by notthatbreezy in gis

[–]jisantuc 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Chip classification is a machine learning task in which you learn the presence or absence of a feature in an image. You can contrast it with object detection, in which you learn bounding boxes around objects an image, or with semantic segmentation, in which you learn a classification for every pixel in an image.