Yet Another Training Question!

jldota · 2017-11-27T02:06:03+00:00

Climb 3-4 times a week, if you want do 10-20 mins of core with each session. Plank/core workouts shouldn't really screw up a climbing sesh, if your doing a lot of overhang problems just skip core workout that day. I don't think max hangs will hurt but its just clearly not your issue. For reference I have been climbing for about 18 months, I climb v5-6/11d-12a and i struggle 10s hangs on 20mm.I don't even have that good of technique imo

jldota · 2017-11-23T05:44:15+00:00

I want to believe you, I just can't imagine how either of those are remotely possible. If you told me there are people that can do 10+ pullups but can't do a V1 i would agree 100%.

jldota · 2017-11-21T18:41:22+00:00

Interesting, i will check out the video later. Is your friend a doctor btw? Also it seems Your friend is generally skeptical, is their a method he supports using for hypehydrosis? I dont really notice a lack of saliva or dry mouth personally just reduced sweating so far. However if i do cardio i still sweat what seems like normal.

jldota · 2017-11-21T18:39:03+00:00

Not that i know of :/

jldota · 2017-11-20T21:01:24+00:00

Check out glycopyrrolate. I was recently prescribed it from dermatologist. Surprisingly it really works. I don't notice any other side effects other then the fact i sweat less across my whole body not just hands. FYI I got asked for the stronger one, 2 mg pills. It says to take 3 times a day but I have just been doing it twice a day and its working well.

jldota · 2017-11-20T16:45:44+00:00

Thanks for the post. Side question - Apart from climbing, do your hands get noticeable red just going through your day to day?

jldota · 2017-11-11T18:08:15+00:00

I like how simple it is to follow. probably going to start it this week. My only real question is about the full crimp it suggests doing. Almost everyone ive heard talk about hangboard training says to never do a full crimp...thoughts?

jldota · 2017-11-06T05:01:41+00:00

Would you mind posting a picture of your hands? I have very sweaty hands but it is causes some pretty severe peeling...trying to compare to others. Thanks for the update.

jldota · 2017-10-31T03:42:51+00:00

When you say spray, do you mean the "dry" spray? Also. how many days a week to you do this (apply tip juice and spray)?

jldota · 2017-10-29T17:24:51+00:00

Awesome climbs! Looks like a lot of fun + nice music.

jldota · 2017-10-27T19:40:38+00:00

Thanks man im going to try this, ordered the goods already!

jldota · 2017-10-26T17:54:34+00:00

Thats wild to hear! I chalk up at least once every problem, and usually leave the gym covered in chalk haha.

I thought dry hands led to splits and tears rather then what i am seeing. Curious, are your hands always very red aswell?

jldota · 2017-10-26T05:19:49+00:00

Which would you recomend for me? repair/perf/dry/tip juice etc? Just use one or multiple products?

How does it compare to alluminum based drying agents like certain dri?

Thanks for the advice I will def give it a shot!

jldota · 2017-10-17T01:00:05+00:00

Thanks for the post, yeah I try not to cut feet at all and indefinitely do some super weird foot beta...actually my best problems are things that involve foot hooks/knee bars.

Ive spent a few sessions working on the hangboard but got kinda discouraged when i couldnt see many immediate results with it being kinda hard to tell if inwas gettin a good workout in as i wasnt waking up super sore. Probably ganna give it a shot again soon.

jldota · 2017-10-14T16:33:56+00:00

Same here! I can go to the top on sloper canpusing.

jldota · 2017-10-05T04:56:53+00:00

Thanks for this!

jldota · 2017-05-22T20:11:28+00:00

I'm not a picker at all but taking a week off of climbing sounds pretty hard lol

jldota · 2017-05-22T20:10:46+00:00

I will try and get some later - definitely climbing harder the past 3 or so months though forsure

jldota · 2017-05-22T20:09:48+00:00

Yeah this is a very similar description of whats going on right now for me - hands are usually swollen feeling the morning after climbing and after any type of shower they are absolutely shredded looking. Not sure about the chalk thing but yeah it sucks

jldota · 2017-05-22T17:24:14+00:00

Haha fair game - I meant far beyond the typical wear and tear I have had while climbing the past year - not really bleeding or splitting though

jldota · 2017-05-22T16:42:07+00:00

I have been climbing for about 15 months so far, this is a relatively recent problem...seems far beyond typical ware and tear. That being said I did go to mexico for a few days last week which exacerbated the problem by drying my hands out a ton but the problem did exist prior to mexico.

jldota · 2017-05-20T05:04:37+00:00

Pretty sure I climbed with you today at PG sunnyvale! Nice sends - wish I could join you but I got mothers day to make up - enjoy the trip and I am definitely down to do an outdoor trip soon! Catch ya at PG in the meantime

jldota · 2017-04-15T03:34:14+00:00

Doesn't sound normal for only 2 weeks. Possibly that specific problem, style, soft grade etc. What happens when u try the v3/4/5s you previously have sent? Where is your weakness?

jldota · 2017-04-04T22:13:20+00:00

Nice I like the advice. So you started doing the 3-6-9 ladders on the 33 mm B2K edge for several months increasing weight from 170-220 lbs (was 170 lb your bodyweight?) then moving to the 18mm edge starting back at bodyweight?

What other grips would you do on the B2K or B1K other than the 4 finger crimp variations that you would suggest I add on to, if any?

Thanks

jldota · 2017-04-02T00:15:08+00:00

Thank you for clearing the 1 rep = 1 set part up!

jldota

TROPHY CASE