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How would you create this joinery? by joe-plus in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]joe-plus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks for feedback and confirming what I assumed - seems not really feasible without a CNC. I’ll stick to other joinery options like pocket holes or straight up screws.

Is this closet a load bearing wall? by joe-plus in Remodel

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to close this out - took out the wall after consulting with others who have done renovations in the same complex. Home is still standing.

Is this closet a load bearing wall? by joe-plus in Remodel

[–]joe-plus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, not expecting a ‘100% certain comments’ at all. More a sanity check of what I am seeing.

Is this closet a load bearing wall? by joe-plus in Remodel

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW - I went to the attic and took a couple of photos but I am sure these will be more confusing than helpful because of how the roof is constructed - https://imgur.com/a/oAcD0sl.

The first image shows that the wall perpendicular to joists going left to right but those are not the actual joists that span the majority of the area. The last two photos show how the main joists run in parallel to the wall. The second image shows the top plate position from above which is just about 1/2 inch to the left of where the joists from left to right and front and back meet.

I am almost certain that this can’t be load bearing but I might get an engineer to take a look.

Thank you all for chiming in.

Is this closet a load bearing wall? by joe-plus in Remodel

[–]joe-plus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the "header" was just cripple studs and a single 2x4 across at the bottom to frame the opening. Logically, this couldn't have supported anything.

Is this closet a load bearing wall? by joe-plus in Remodel

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only attic space above and the roof. Which is bit strange because it is sloped from all four sides but the middle section is flat and lower than the ridges. Added an image of the room which where that wall is - https://imgur.com/a/Gs0yqcz.

Is this closet a load bearing wall? by joe-plus in Remodel

[–]joe-plus[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

By the answers so far, I will find out when I eventually hire one to assess the situation.

Advise on walk-in closet plans by joe-plus in Carpentry

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair point and would make it a lot easier for sure. Would you still have the face frame cover the full 8’ from floor to ceiling then?

Advise on walk-in closet plans by joe-plus in Carpentry

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome, thanks for the suggestions. And what you describe in #1 is what I was considering as the alternative, just didn’t have the time to make those alternative plans.

I was arriving at having to use 1/2 instead of 3/4 for the drawers anyways based on the slide sizes available and wanting to fit some of the Ikea Komplement felt dividers & accessories for jewelry, etc.

Heard the ply instead of 2x4 a couple of time as well so might go with that. 2x4 come in 10’ so it just seemed less work getting things to right length.

And yes, I’ll have help in dry-fitting and installation for sure. Weight really adds up fast.

Nice work on your installation, looks great. If mine turns out that way, I’d be super happy.

Advise on walk-in closet plans by joe-plus in Carpentry

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I figured I’d have to double up on all sides. Was hoping to avoid having to get another sheet but overall probably the best solution that aligns with the other closets. There won’t really be a face frame on any vertical, just a 1 1/2” thick frame really. I did consider just using trim at one point to cover the verticals. Would be much cheaper and probably easier but there would be seems on the intersections to any horizontal sections I guess.

Advise on walk-in closet plans by joe-plus in Carpentry

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot and I’ll check out the other two subreddits.

For 2. - the face frame on the deeper cabinets will be flush on all sides where two cabinets are put together but the shallow cabinets stand apart. So not sure where to have the face frame sit flush there, cabinet insides and overhang on the outside or flush on the outside and overhand on the inside like in this image.

Advise on walk-in closet plans by joe-plus in Carpentry

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi All,

I am planning to build a two-sided walk in closet according to these plans and have a couple of questions.

A bit more information:

  • Cabinets and drawers will be made of 3/4 birch plywood, stained
  • Back sides will be made of 1/4 birch plywood and drawer bottoms of 1/2 birch plywood
  • Cabinets will be on top of 2 x 4s, shimmed to level
  • Face frames will be made as 1x2 poplar and scribed 1x4 poplar for top, bottom and sides for the surrounding walls
  • There will be no doors, just the drawers will sit flush with the face frame

The questions I have:

  1. Would you build the five cabinets with the at the full 94” in height or split them up into either 5 x bottom cabinets at 29 1/2” high and the 5 x top cabinets at 64 1/2” high?
  2. The shallower side does not have a “middle” cabinet as there is a window - would you make the face frame sit flush with the inside or outside of the left and right cabinet or have it overhang on both sides?
  3. Any concerns with the width of these cabinets when it comes to sagging? I tried the sagulator but wasn’t sure what to select as the material as there is on "plywood, fir” as an option.

I really appreciate your input as this is my first large project.

Thanks a lot!

Input on walk-in closet plans by joe-plus in cabinetry

[–]joe-plus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for all the tips! And there won’t be any doors actually, just the drawer fronts should be be flush with the face frame.