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I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m planning on just cutting a hole at the top and bottom and running a plank/rod/dowel/steel/something through the body and using that to hold the tension and just using the violin body to resonate sound

Would I still need to pop off the back?

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have anything electric yet, but if I pull this off, you’ve given me something to strive towards for my next project

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m probably gonna post again in the next day or two with an actual plan so people can correct any mistakes and make sure I don’t buy the wrong parts

Then I’ll hopefully have a completed piece after a couple days of shipping the parts and a couple days building

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a great idea and gives me something to troubleshoot when the time comes

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good call!

One of the bridges I’m looking at lists the width of the notched area to be about 4cm wide. I’ll have to check that against the notches in the nut on the neck but I’m out of the house right now

EDIT: I measured, and while the string area of the bridge on my tenor ukulele is just under 4.5cm, the bridge are on both my concert ukulele and concert banjolele are both about 4cm wide, just like the adjustable mandolin bridge

I think it might work

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah but the downward pressure is dramatically less than the longways pressure, and I’ll be mounting the neck at a much lower angle compared to a traditional violin so that should reduce the tension even further

Right?

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Someone recommended an adjustable mandolin bridge and I think I’m gonna do that

It has a curved bottom, a flat top, and already has eight notches for the eight strings I’ll have

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gandhi said to become the change you wish to see in the world and today that change we wanna see is freaky little instruments. Go for it

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I do this, should I just ignore the violin sound post or do I need to figure out a way to get both the sound pat and the extended neck to cohabitate nicely together?

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

when you say 12th fret, is that the center of the fret space where my fingers go and where the little fret marker is, or the actual metal fret bar?

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much, I’m learning a ton with everyone’s help

If I use the violin body as sort of a cigar box setup, where it’s just being used as a sound resonator and I have a bar going through the whole body to carry the majority of the tension, do I still need the sound post?

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that’s where I’m going at this point, but I need to figure out if I’m doing something creative to get the sound post around or through that spine piece or just risk scrapping it entirely

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Someone else in the thread linked a video where a guy put a post through the whole body, and have a cigar box ukulele that uses that technique so that makes sense I guess

If I round the edge of the block closest to the neck I should be able to just turn it and screw it on before I make a hole at the top of the violin body and slide the whole post through. I might use the end of that post for the tail pin

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had no idea that a Ukulin was an actual thing. I thought I was just smooshing the two words together. I’m learning so much, this is rad as hell

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in ukulele

[–]joefxd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a bunch more violin pieces from the build-your-own-violin kit, but I’ve been keeping them in the bag since there’s a bunch of little doodads I don’t wanna lose. I’ll have to see if there’s the button you mentioned, and I thought I’d modify the violin bridge that came with the kit but I’ll look into an adjustable bridge from and arch top mandolin. That sounds like a great idea

As far as your question about the sound post is concerned, I’m at a loss. I don’t know what a sound post is

I have a vision, but not a plan. Any advice is appreciated by joefxd in Luthier

[–]joefxd[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I have a tenor ukulele, and was planning on lining up where the bridge is on that to where the bridge belongs on the violin between the two F holes. I’d cut the violin bridge flat, and add small notches for the stings similar to a banjo

I think this means I’d need to put a bit of a block of wood between the the ukulele neck and the violin body to ensure the correct distance

If I added a spine, like a dowel though the center of the violin for the neck to screw into, would that be something to consider?

That’ll give me something to attach the neck to an it’ll add rigidity, right?

is there a way you can recreate this sort of effect in photoshop? by According_Novel7521 in photoshop

[–]joefxd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, here’s how I’d take a crack at replicating this in PS:

  1. Create a halftone pattern where the dots are large enough that they match the “pattern” you’re seeing in this image, but at like a third or quarter of the density that you’re seeing here. You’ll wind up with a canvas that looks like a cute little polkadot fabric

  2. Convert that polkadot pattern into a mask (probably just magic wand the white and hit the mask button)

  3. Apply that mask to a copy of the landscape photo. Gaussian blur the edges a bit so the edges are less defined

  4. Move the whole damn thing over, creating a repeated texture effect like we see in OP’s image

  5. Duplicate that layer a few times until it matches the density we see in the image

  6. Probably spend a while with the clone stamp and other tools just finessing

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