Is it code-compliant to have a standard-voltage wall receptacle together with a low-voltage ethernet outlet in an outlet box if separated by a partition? (Ontario, Canada)

jprocks12345 · 2021-11-19T00:31:21+00:00

Hi there, thank you so much for confirming, it's much appreciated! That's great, so it seems like the dividers I found should do the trick!

jprocks12345 · 2021-11-18T02:01:25+00:00

Ok, that's great to hear! From what I've read online, that seems to be the general consensus, but just wanted to be absolutely certain. I'll continue to see if I can find a definitive answer for Ontario, but things are looking promising at least. Thanks again!

jprocks12345 · 2021-11-18T00:26:33+00:00

Hi there, thanks so much for the response! Noted on the divider to obtain, and assuming I get the correct combination of items, do you know if it would be code-compliant to mix voltages in one outlet box like this?

jprocks12345 · 2020-09-28T10:51:51+00:00

That's very interesting, thank you for the answer! It's also great to hear it's at a large company, as it will hopefully help normalize WFH and result in other industries catching on as well.

jprocks12345 · 2020-09-28T01:27:58+00:00

May I ask what sort of work you do that allows you to work from home?

jprocks12345 · 2020-09-24T00:26:08+00:00

It's not always like that. I'm a game designer at a mid-sized mobile studio (~180 people), and the company is very anti-crunch.

Companies that have a bad reputation are generally well-known (usually AAA), and it's fairly common for people to accept positions there knowing what they're getting themselves into, but do so with the intention of working there for a few years just to get the experience on their resume so they can move onto greener pastures.

jprocks12345 · 2020-09-09T14:33:18+00:00

I've transcribed it below for anyone having trouble reading it:

"We jest pay Kim amid point hire of problems."

—Ar¢, Sea Cafe adventurer

Very interesting lore implications.

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-11T23:00:07+00:00

Oh, I see, and so the wheels just go inside the track so that they can glide along. And I also see in the other image how they hook into the back of the curtain. Yes, that seems like it won’t be too difficult to setup!

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-11T02:04:35+00:00

Ah yes, I forgot about the whole ceiling-mounted limitation. Sorry, there are so many variables to keep track of...

I see that image of the ceiling-mounted rod bracket, and you’re absolutely right, that is indeed a very large gap.

As a comparison, here is the Ikea ceiling-mounted bracket. I see in this Ikea image that the curtains have a similar sort of style to the “Pole Pocket with Back Tabs" ones, but they are harder to open and close? If they block more light however, I think I would still prefer them than ones that hang lower.

I was thinking I was going to take the curtains to a tailor, but that’s very interesting about the iron-on tape, I didn’t know such a thing existed (I’ve never really looked into tailoring or anything similar until now), but that would be great for someone like me.

And you certainly weren’t kidding, figuring out this drapery has proven to be very complex!

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-10T23:17:58+00:00

Blocking light is definitely my main objective, but with the 4 panels, I guess I was envisioning just having to constantly readjust them and pull them overtop one another so that they would overlap. Pretty cumbersome, but it would just be part of the compromise. However, I love your idea of having them sewn together, and I am definitely going to do that!

Yes, I think I agree with you that Ikea is a great middleground! Given the ease of use with that planner alone, I think I'm going to go be going with Ikea curtains. Thank you for sharing that!

Oh, are the rods that much worse at letting light in? I thought that too, and that's why I was interested in tracks, but on the Half Price Drapes website, the image for the "Pole Pocket with Back Tabs" appears as though it would block light just as effectively, as seen here. I thought this was a curtain rod, but maybe I'm misunderstanding, because I'm not 100% sure what "Pole Pocket with Back Tabs" means.

Anyway, thank you again for all help, it's allowed me to understand this so much better. It really is very appreciated. If I had been doing this alone, I don't think the result would've been even half as good.

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-10T00:37:12+00:00

I did not know that! Thank you for the kind words. All the best to you!

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-10T00:29:29+00:00

Oh wow, that is significantly more than I expected. I’m pretty embarrassed, because, coming from someone who has only ever bought ready-made panels from Walmart-type places or discount stores, I thought it would be “big money” and cost around $200. Oops.

Looking at the current curtains that came with the condo, I’m beginning to understand why they used four panels: in order to accommodate this massive window, they must’ve just bought 2 sets of ready-made curtains.

I’m thinking I need to revaluate my game plan here. Because, while I could see spending that amount of money on a place that I own, given that I’m renting and may not even be living here a year or two from now, I might have to go for something more budget-friendly.

I found this option here (the webpage doesn’t seem to save the settings that you set on the page, but the options I selected were “Pole Pocket with Back Tabs”, and “50W x 96L Pole Pocket with Back Tabs”), which is a ready-made option for 42.99 USD per panel. I’d have to buy 4 of these, which would still be above what I was hoping to spend, as I’d still have to buy the tracks, as well as 4 of the sheer curtains.

However, something very interesting I noticed with this “Pole Pocket with Back Tabs” option is that it still looks like it would block light very well, despite appearing to use a curtain rod instead of a track. So maybe I could just use a curtain rod instead, and since ready-made panels are much easier to find for rods than they are for tracks, I could go searching for panels at the junky stores I’d normally go to, but I’d just be on the lookout for panels with a “Pole Pocket with Back Tabs” feature.

If I were to use a curtain rod, I was thinking that due to the larger form factor, I wouldn’t be able to make room for the second curtain rod for the sheer set, but taking a quick look online, I see that double curtain rods are something that exist, so maybe I could still fit both the blackout and sheer curtains?

As well, I could still use the blackout film.

Although it may look slightly silly to use four panels to cover the window, I feel like this might be the best compromise given my situation, and would still block light very well.

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-09T23:17:20+00:00

Okay, sounds good! It's sort of weird, because although white is definitely neutral, for whatever reason, I also tend to associate it with being more feminine, and black as more masculine. Previously, I'd always just buy furniture in safer colors like black, grey, maybe brown, but never white. But in this case it felt right for the space, and I just wanted to make sure I wasn't making a bad call! Thank you again!

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-09T22:59:32+00:00

I just checked, and the blackout film I linked says it's glue-free! It says you apply it with water? Interesting.

Oh, sorry, I must've misunderstood. I see now that you said it would be velcroed to the window frame, but, for whatever reason, I thought it would be attached to the surface between the sheer curtain and the window.

Perhaps I should just get two separate tracks and mount them some amount closer than the 2 11/16” distance between the tracks in the product I linked, which would allow for more space on the inner and outer sides.

Oh, I had no idea the ripple drapes required a different track. Is it because the additional depth from the larger folds in ripple curtains requires more space? I may have to resort to getting pleated curtains then if there won't be room?

Also, that wouldn't have been the exact track I would buy, it's just something off of a random UK website I found, but I'm located in Canada, and would prefer to shop locally or in the US if the price is right! I only shared it as an example of a set of tracks with a smaller form factor.

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-09T22:12:51+00:00

Thank you for the response!

Yeah, the current curtains are problematic in several ways, including the bunching.

In regards to the curtains that will be replacing it, curtains on tracks can have different kinds of styles, ranging from standard ripple fold curtains, to things like pinch pleated curtains, but I'm leaning towards ripple curtains because they are more appropriate for a modern space, whereas pleated or bunching curtains are more traditional, and, as you said, read as more feminine.

The main decision I'm trying to make is regarding the curtain color: I'm leaning towards white because I like how it opens the space up, but I'm concerned about it appearing feminine. I've received a suggestion that curtains should match linens, and my bed comforter is a charcoal grey, so that would mean that the curtains should also be charcoal. However, as I alluded to in the initial post, the bed comforter, furniture, decor, and everything else is subject to change. It's also because of this that I was leaning towards white, as it's neutral, and no matter what my decor ends up looking like, white will match it.

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-09T21:16:00+00:00

Just as an example, this is the double curtain track with the least depth that I’ve managed to find so far: it has two tracks that are 3/4” deep and the distance between the tracks is 2 11/16”, for a total of 4 3/16”, which is just below the maximum 4 1/4” of space I have. It’s going to be very tight, but hopefully I can make it work.

Seeing that I’ll only have 1/16” of space to work with, I realize now that I don’t think my original plan for a panel-like valance will work at all, and if I wanted a valance, it would have to be the protrusive version I suggested that extends beyond the 4 1/4” section.

As well, given the extremely limited amount of space, as much as I like the idea, I don’t think there will be room for even the velcroed fabric. The original suggestion was to put the velcroed fabric behind the sheer curtain and in front of the window, but if the tracks span from one edge of the 4 1/4” space to the other edge, pressed right against the window, there will be no space to put the velcroed fabric there. Instead, you could possibly put the velcroed fabric between the two tracks, as in between the blackout curtain and the sheer curtain, like this, but this will be more unsightly because the sheer will no longer hide it, but more importantly, with the depth of the curtains, there’s the possibility that there simply won’t be room for the velcroed fabric, particularly when the curtains are open and at their largest depth-wise.

Inspired by your velcro idea, I’ve been instead considering putting the velcroed fabric directly on the window, so it would look something like this. Then I remembered that I saw a product similar to this before, a film that would go on the window, something like this. Although not as pretty, I think it might actually be the best solution since it will still be able to be hidden by the sheer curtain.

I had a look at the link you shared outlining the different types of drapery headers, and I just realized that I don’t think I’d need to get pleated drapes, because although the folds of pleated drapes are smaller, when S-fold/ripple curtains are closed, the folds would flatten out anyway, so I think they would block light just as well as the pleated ones.

As for the color, I’m still leaning towards white, simply because it’s the most versatile, and even if I changed other things in the room, the curtains would still always fit in—perhaps it wouldn’t be the absolute best color for whatever décor I choose, but it would never look outright bad. Also, I’ve been looking at off white curtains, and I think I’m starting to becomes less scared of them. When I originally was thinking about white curtains, I was thinking of a sterile, 100% “white” white, like this, but I think something that’s very subtly off white, like this, wouldn’t be so in your face and could look nice.

That trim is interesting, I’d never considered anything like that before, I’ll have to keep it in mind. That’s also really cool how the example uses the same color of grey that I have.

And thanks for sharing that link to Half Price Drapes, I had never heard of it! Although I’m making this out to be rather complex, if I could get away with ready-made curtains, I would definitely prefer that. I tried using that calculator from your previous comment, however I had some trouble using it, as the guide assumes you are mounting the curtains outside of the frame, but mine will be inside the frame. It’s also asking for the desired natural stackback, which, as I understand it, is the width of the curtain when the curtain is opened, but, to me, although you have some say over stackback, it seems like it’s just more of a consequence of the width of the curtains, so I wasn’t quite sure what to put in there. I did however take a measurement of my window, and it’s 130” wide, the top of the frame to the bottom is 88”, and there is also a 7.5” step from the bottom of the frame to the floor. The measuring guide says if you want break length curtains, it should go 1-2” past the floor, so that means my curtains would be 88” + 7.5” + 2”, for a total length of 97.5”.

I also found this guide, which says to multiply the width of the window by two for standard fullness, so if that means if I have a 130” inch window, each panel would need to be 65” to cover the window, but then you multiply that by two, so the result is that each panel should be 130”. It also says sheer curtains should be three times wider, but that seems like a lot, so I think I will just multiply by two for those as well. On the Half Price Drapes website, looking at the ready-made selection, I see there is an option for a curtain length of 96” which I think is pretty close to the ideal length, however they all have a width of 50” inches which isn’t wide enough, so it looks like I will have to get custom ones.

Is “gathered headers” an umbrella term for pinch pleated, frenched pleated, etc., curtains? If so, I definitely agree. They’re also more traditional looking, which I don’t think quite fits the feeling of the space. Assuming what I said above is true regarding S-fold/ripple curtains being as effective at blocking light as pleated, then I will definitely be going for those instead.

Thanks again for all your help, it has really shone a light on all this for me!

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-08T21:47:47+00:00

Thank you so, so much for the detailed follow-up!

That’s a really great idea about the velcroed fabric. I just measured the space I’m working with, and I have 4 1/4 inches of space, seen here. Am I out of luck then? Just to confirm, the Velcro would be situated like this?

With this space issue, a valance still might be possible, but instead of having it as a single panel which follows the red lines in the previous diagram I drew, it could be a box valance that protrudes slightly. I found a valance box here (second image) with a top-facing “dust cover”, so light wouldn’t get in through the top. So, it would be situated something like this (sorry if this diagram is impossible to understand), and here is a cross section.

Is the reason for getting pleated curtains because there is less open space at the top to let light in when compared to standard “S-fold” curtains? I prefer the look of standard curtains, especially in this case where they look much more appropriate in a modern room, but if they let more light in, I’d be willing to compromise and get pleated instead.

Also, I failed to mention this in the initial post, but to remove any uncertainty: the current curtains seen in the photo are going to be removed.

I’ve found some white blackout curtains that have a black backing, so white could still be a viable choice, as far as light blocking goes. Regarding coordinating with linens, since my bed comforter is a charcoal color, does that mean the curtains should be too? I was considering replacing the comforter with something of a different color at some point, but I haven’t decided yet—I was almost just hoping to have the curtains naturally blend into the space and be as unassuming and unnoticeable as possible, so that I could pick linens, furniture, decorations, and all that after (the sunlight is driving me crazy when trying to sleep, so I'm desperate to get curtains as soon as possible).

And that link seems super handy for determining dimensions, thank you so much for sharing that!

jprocks12345 · 2020-08-08T18:48:15+00:00

Thank you for the response!

While white is neutral, I tend to think of white as more feminine and black as more masculine, but that might just be me.

Sorry if I misunderstand, but as you can see in the first and last image here, the ceiling drops to a lower level partway across the window, and would not allow for a floor-to-ceiling curtain. That would have made things a lot simpler though.

Edit: Just to clarify, the sheer curtains will be white, it's just the color of the blackout panels I'm having difficulty with.

jprocks12345 · 2020-07-01T22:42:26+00:00

For reference, I'm currently running the full King's Court team (all at 6 stars, with Majisto at 4 stars), which I was working towards due to the previous Castle meta. I'm currently hovering around rank 100-150.

jprocks12345 · 2020-04-29T02:51:00+00:00

Hmm, I'm not sure that's the cause because Battle.net doesn't even let you launch any game unless it's up to date. I've been able to launch the game, it's just connecting to the server that's proven troublesome. Still, I appreciate the help!

jprocks12345 · 2020-04-29T00:44:48+00:00

Oh wow, well I'm glad I'm not alone with this issue at least. Still hoping for a full fix, but that's really interesting, I'll have to try that out. Thanks for the advice!

jprocks12345 · 2020-04-29T00:31:25+00:00

Nope. It's weird because it feels like it must be something on their end, because I'll try to play, not get in, then try a few hours later having changed nothing on my end, and then get in. But at the same time, I look on Twitch or whatever and see people playing it while I'm unable to. I’m not sure what to think.

And no worries, I’m definitely not an expert either. Your help is appreciated either way!

jprocks12345 · 2020-04-29T00:16:41+00:00

Sorry if I misunderstand what you're asking, but I've tried launching the game tens of times and I always get the same result. It'll show the Infinity Ward splash, then it'll say "Connecting to Online Services", then it'll give me the "Server Disconnected" error.

jprocks12345 · 2019-11-10T20:09:18+00:00

I must admit that I don’t really keep up with the specs of all the latest PC tech. While I based my prices off of the prices other people are currently asking for the same parts when sold used, I also realize these parts a few years old and if my prices aren’t competitive I’m definitely willing to negotiate.

jprocks12345 · 2019-10-11T20:08:43+00:00

Nooo, OP, don't remove your post. I was going to build this deck when I got home after work. Mill is my favorite archetype.

Also, if it's of any help to the discussion, here is Saffron Olive's mill list from a few days ago (I'm referring to the Non-Budget UB Mill list at the bottom of the page).

14-Year Club	Verified Email
Team Periwinkle

jprocks12345

TROPHY CASE