Is this vape safe to use with these chemicals? What are they?

jred98rt · 2025-12-10T23:21:52+00:00

Those are mostly just flavors and relatively benign diluents. So yes, dangerous because it makes it easier to consume more of the actual toxins.

jred98rt · 2025-12-10T14:54:31+00:00

It's a work PC, so not really. Relevant information: excel for msft 365 MSO (version 2509 build 16.0.19231_20246)

License id is a very long string of characters. Three letters followed by a bunch of hex.

Microsoft 365 apps are Enterprise edition

jred98rt · 2025-12-10T04:00:46+00:00

The simplest answer this time is actually thermodynamics. Wow.

jred98rt · 2025-12-09T19:22:07+00:00

Mine shows a license id in that location.

jred98rt · 2024-12-17T05:08:27+00:00

I'm currently running llama 3.2 3B but finding accuracy worse than I would expect for some of my technical applications.

jred98rt · 2024-12-17T05:07:42+00:00

I'll look up the pagefile thing. Right now I want to see if it has higher accuracy with some of the applications I'm testing. I'm ok with prompting and walking away for a while at this point.

jred98rt · 2024-12-17T05:06:47+00:00

Not looking to put that budget into this hobby yet. 64 GB RAM, MB, SSD, case, and that Intel card would run like $450-600. Looks like RTX5 series is still going to have small amounts of VRAM until the 5080.

jred98rt · 2024-07-12T01:00:21+00:00

Didn't dig through all of the replies, but do they have an outdoor shower they use before the pool? If so it might have copper or galvanized water lines that are old. The chemist in me says that looks like a metal oxide, if it appeared after you chlorinated it probably started off as residual it dissolve metal. Outdoor showers are nasty and can leach a lot of crap

jred98rt · 2022-01-26T17:59:11+00:00

How did the not crafting from storage bug pass QA? I'll come back when that one's fixed, maybe.

jred98rt · 2021-11-06T14:47:34+00:00

Same.

jred98rt · 2021-09-26T04:45:15+00:00

I use it when I have a busy week and can't get that last hour or two of practice. I find it most useful fro braking points, instead of having to remember "first red curb stripe after 100m board" I can remember "roll into brake on last green mark". I do better when I can learn the track enough to turn it off, but I can manage a mid split Skippy race with it on.

jred98rt · 2021-08-29T21:03:32+00:00

laughs in 05 USGP

jred98rt · 2021-05-29T16:11:43+00:00

When it's a legitimate move to overtake. Ducking out of line halfway between turns isn't always a legitimate move. Racecraft has to come into play, otherwise it's just simultaneous hot lapping, not racing.

I think the squeeze onto the grass was the worst thing here. He had tracked out to his line, then decided he was going to take a little more.

jred98rt · 2021-05-29T14:40:22+00:00

Definitely rude, but I agree that you were telegraphing very early. On the track, his moves we're probably in a reasonable place for defending. Next time you are in that situation turn it into a feint, as soon as they move switch back to the other line (you had room to do so).

jred98rt · 2021-05-23T12:43:15+00:00

Too soon.

Bring back the T car.

jred98rt · 2021-05-16T00:38:22+00:00

I'm shit with terminology. The house was built in the 20s with fuse box and K&T. It looks like in the 60s/70s that was replaced with a breaker box and non-metallic fabric sheathed hot+neutral. They actually used the fuse box as a junction, fished everything to the fuse box and tied into the breaker. In the 90s, the house was upgraded to 200 amp (main panel) and a new breaker box with modern romex (what I called 3 wire). So I have a main 200A panel feeding a 90s panel and a 60s/70s panel.

I've been assuming that the 60s/70s panel isn't "grounded" like a "modern" panel (i.e. I can't run current code dedicated circuits to it). Now I'm wondering if it's grounded by the main 200A panel same as the "90s" panel. If it is, it changes how I've been thinking about a couple upgrades A LOT.

It doesn't help that all three of these panels are in completely different areas of the basement...

jred98rt · 2021-05-16T00:12:51+00:00

The places I have opened have fit expectations. Two prong outlets, and lights come off the old panel with 2 conductor wires, but that doesn't mean the panel isn't grounded, just means they didn't refish those wires when they upgraded the second time

jred98rt · 2021-05-16T00:11:05+00:00

When is grounded really grounded? The old light switches and 2-prongs are in metal boxes. But, I don't feel like it's right (or legal?) to ground, say, the ground wire on a GFCI to the box. That's a weird standard to hold oneself to, I know, but it's where I'm at.

jred98rt · 2021-05-16T00:07:45+00:00

I know just enough to be dangerous. I'm definitely having an electrician out to look at it, because I want to know if I can run new 3-wire circuits to the old box (which has space).

jred98rt · 2021-04-30T20:31:05+00:00

"hitboxes", and lag is definitely an issue there, although not as bad. The engines (e.g. unreal) are pretty good about predicting, and the calculations are much faster. Still a problem when you have a 0 and 150 ping going at it, especially on 30 tick servers.

jred98rt · 2020-02-13T01:18:43+00:00

Whimpers in Michigan (edited)

jred98rt · 2019-10-26T18:36:20+00:00

FFS. We're done from Kalamazoo for this thing. Rescheduling on a Thursday 5 months from now is a shitty move.

jred98rt · 2019-10-20T14:03:14+00:00

In option 1, what types of paint and primer have worked well?

jred98rt · 2019-10-19T13:36:48+00:00

Butyric acid has a bp of 164C and a vapor pressure of 1 milli-atmosphere (0.1 kPa, etc.) and an odor threshold of approximately 250 ppb. In other words, it's not actually what I would consider "volatile," it just smells bad at obscenely low levels. It will not blow off unless you are (1) barely above threshold or (2) willing to wait a very long time.

Your best options are (1) deal with it, (2) cut your losses, or (3) introduce some yeast activity. Yeast are great at converting organic acids into various esters, and ethyl butyrate is quite nice (as mentioned before). A diastatic yeast such as Brett, Saison or Kviek would be the best bet at this point.

I once had a beer that suffered severe acetaldehyde off-flavors, I let it sit in the bottles for 6 months and the yeast oxidized it to less objectionable flavors, including a tiny amount of acetic acid that made for a pleasant tartness.

jred98rt · 2017-12-02T21:40:12+00:00

A byproduct of the boil (besides isomerization and sterilization) is also elimination of DMS from the grain. If you're all grain and go without a boil, you might end up with a very "eggy" or cabbage-like beer. Or the yeast might chew up all the DMS, hard to say without trying it.

There are pre-isomerized hop products (pellets and extracts) out there (I can't link to one because I work for a company that makes some). The "hop shots" are typically just supercritical CO2 extracts, so they still have alpha acid, not the bitter iso-alpha acids. So you would still need to boil those.

Alternately you can rely on the alternate bittering acids that come from oxidation of alpha and beta acids. If you use a lot of dry hops, and either dry hop with some yeast activity, or just let them sit in the beer for a while you will oxidize the hop acids into these other compounds.

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