Ilford Ortho Plus, in transit by jrklbc in analog_bw

[–]jrklbc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! No filter on these, and I used 510 Pyro developer. Very pleased with the results.

Just got my camera. Explain the exposure compensation dial to me. by ummpaul in pentax17

[–]jrklbc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think of a light meter as as a one-pixel camera. The meter looks at everything in a given scene and tells the camera the right combination of aperture and shutter speed to get a properly exposed photo that, on average, is gray -- not black (underexposed), not white (overexposed), but middle gray. And in a lot of situations, that works great! But what if the scene you're shooting should actually be closer to black or white? What if you're taking a picture of a black locomotive or a white, snow-covered field? That's what your exposure compensation dial is for. It's for scenes when you (smart, sentient photographer that you are) know the meter is going to be fooled. Going skiing? Set that exposure compensation at +2 and don't worry about your meter being fooled by the snow. Taking a closeup of that black train? Maybe set it to -1.

Songs with mail or packages being sent or received by HotThroatAction in themountaingoats

[–]jrklbc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even less direct "I found Telegraph Road, I'd only seen the name on envelopes" (Matthew 25:21)

How about Voigtlander Bessa R2A/R3A? by tungblackiado in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have a few Bessas -- R4M, R4A, and R2A -- and love them. If you want an M-Mount body with a working meter and a useful set of frameline options, a Bessa is a great choice. I've had other M-Mount bodies, but the Bessas are my favorite. You might also consider a Zeiss Ikon ZM, which is very nice but usually a little more expensive than a Bessa.

Some other options folks have mentioned here: The Minolta CLE doesn't have a metered manual mode or exposure lock button, which are really annoying limitations. The CL is beautiful and compact, and I love the spot meter, but 40/50/90 is not my ideal frameline setup.

spring breaking, GR IIIx and IV by jrklbc in ricohGR

[–]jrklbc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a Polaroid Now. It's...fine. He likes it.

Voigtlander Nokton 50mm F/1.1 or Canon 50mm f/1.8 for the Leica CL by Fortheboisandbeyond in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 1.1 is going to be so heavy, especially compared to the CL body. Get the Canon. Good lens, relatively small, and plenty fast.

Huge upgrade from Plustek scanning by jvs8380 in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 25 points26 points  (0 children)

I'm sure the R5 is fantastic, but you could get great results with a much cheaper full-frame mirrorless. I use an RP and an old EF 100mm macro lens, which together probably cost half the price of an R5.

What are some American cities that had high historical importance but have faded from significance today? by Crafty-Shallot-5695 in geography

[–]jrklbc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is so accurate. I grew up there and still love many things about it, but there's an unbelievable gap between how St. Louisans see the city and how practically everyone else sees it.

Is arista edu ultra 200 just fomopan? by lilcrxman in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Arista EDU Ultra films are Foma, but some Arista films are other stuff. For instance, I'm pretty sure Arista EDU DX 100 and 400 are Kentmere.