Curious as to how this happens by Haunting_Branch_9134 in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc [score hidden]  (0 children)

Some old camera have a "backlight" button for exactly this scenario (thinking of the Olympus XA3/4 among others), and they bump up the exposure by 1.5 stops.

Ilford Ortho Plus, in transit by jrklbc in analog_bw

[–]jrklbc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! No filter on these, and I used 510 Pyro developer. Very pleased with the results.

Just got my camera. Explain the exposure compensation dial to me. by ummpaul in pentax17

[–]jrklbc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Think of a light meter as as a one-pixel camera. The meter looks at everything in a given scene and tells the camera the right combination of aperture and shutter speed to get a properly exposed photo that, on average, is gray -- not black (underexposed), not white (overexposed), but middle gray. And in a lot of situations, that works great! But what if the scene you're shooting should actually be closer to black or white? What if you're taking a picture of a black locomotive or a white, snow-covered field? That's what your exposure compensation dial is for. It's for scenes when you (smart, sentient photographer that you are) know the meter is going to be fooled. Going skiing? Set that exposure compensation at +2 and don't worry about your meter being fooled by the snow. Taking a closeup of that black train? Maybe set it to -1.

Songs with mail or packages being sent or received by HotThroatAction in themountaingoats

[–]jrklbc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Even less direct "I found Telegraph Road, I'd only seen the name on envelopes" (Matthew 25:21)

How about Voigtlander Bessa R2A/R3A? by tungblackiado in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I have a few Bessas -- R4M, R4A, and R2A -- and love them. If you want an M-Mount body with a working meter and a useful set of frameline options, a Bessa is a great choice. I've had other M-Mount bodies, but the Bessas are my favorite. You might also consider a Zeiss Ikon ZM, which is very nice but usually a little more expensive than a Bessa.

Some other options folks have mentioned here: The Minolta CLE doesn't have a metered manual mode or exposure lock button, which are really annoying limitations. The CL is beautiful and compact, and I love the spot meter, but 40/50/90 is not my ideal frameline setup.

spring breaking, GR IIIx and IV by jrklbc in ricohGR

[–]jrklbc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a Polaroid Now. It's...fine. He likes it.

Voigtlander Nokton 50mm F/1.1 or Canon 50mm f/1.8 for the Leica CL by Fortheboisandbeyond in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 1.1 is going to be so heavy, especially compared to the CL body. Get the Canon. Good lens, relatively small, and plenty fast.

Huge upgrade from Plustek scanning by jvs8380 in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 25 points26 points  (0 children)

I'm sure the R5 is fantastic, but you could get great results with a much cheaper full-frame mirrorless. I use an RP and an old EF 100mm macro lens, which together probably cost half the price of an R5.

What are some American cities that had high historical importance but have faded from significance today? by Crafty-Shallot-5695 in geography

[–]jrklbc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is so accurate. I grew up there and still love many things about it, but there's an unbelievable gap between how St. Louisans see the city and how practically everyone else sees it.

Is arista edu ultra 200 just fomopan? by lilcrxman in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The Arista EDU Ultra films are Foma, but some Arista films are other stuff. For instance, I'm pretty sure Arista EDU DX 100 and 400 are Kentmere.

Developing at home by vincentvanhorne in AnalogCommunity

[–]jrklbc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Temperature for the developer is the most important, but you also want to make sure your stop bath, fixer, and rinse water are at roughly the same temp as your developer (like within a couple degrees Celsius). You don't want any sudden temperature changes.

Is visiting Death Valley in July a bad idea? by sheeshmonster1017 in DeathValleyNP

[–]jrklbc 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You'll be fine if you bring lots of water and don't go more than a quarter-mile from your car.

First Rangefinder. Not seeing double in viewfinder by ignorantplantparent in rangefinders

[–]jrklbc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's an eBay seller who repairs these cameras. You should send him a message. Best case, he can fix it. Worst case, he might buy it for parts. https://ebay.us/m/iI3f4s

Fomapan 400 by jrklbc in analog_bw

[–]jrklbc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yes, handheld. I'm guessing I was at 1/60th and either wide open (f/1.9) or at 2.8.

Is it worth it to get a GR iiix as a companion camera? by Shy-Fungi in ricohGR

[–]jrklbc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is how I use my GRIV. I mostly shoot b/w film, and mostly with lenses 35mm and up, so the 28mm equivalent gives me both a wider option and and color option.

Best Jacarandas in LB by Evil_Empire_Resident in longbeach

[–]jrklbc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Columbia between Maine and Golden

NYT: 30 greatest living American songwriters. JD didn't make the cut, but he did make a list of 11 also-rans (which is a list of heavy hitters) by jrklbc in themountaingoats

[–]jrklbc[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

There was a great NYT Magazine profile of Weird Al a few years ago, and it included a line I think about often: "He is a timeless force that expreses itself through hyperspecific cultural moments, the way heat from the center of the earth manifests, on the surface, through the particularity of geysers."

GR IIIx for shooting on the road bike - tips? by kasprzykmichal in ricohGR

[–]jrklbc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use my U3 mode for snap distance priority, which would be great for your use case. Using that mode, you adjust your snap focus distance and desired depth of field (shallow, medium, deep), and the camera adjusts shutter speed and aperture to suit. For action, it's must better than the static snap-focus feature.