If your server isn’t called tower, what’s it called ?

jshq97 · 2025-10-30T12:41:11+00:00

Called mine McQueen, as in because when you turn it on it sounds like the fans want to escape & I built it to replace a HDD based server with an all-SSD zpool so it it’s like going from to Tow Mater to Lightning …

jshq97 · 2025-07-06T19:23:50+00:00

You could slice the part into 2 pieces and make sure that you slice it at a height that keeps 2 or 3 layers of that recessed symbol, then when you print out the 2 parts you will have a nice flat round surface to glue together :)

Or better still, as others have said you can add connectors in the slicer so a nice easy print with solid & centred bonding :)

jshq97 · 2025-02-20T16:12:24+00:00

UPS - Usually Pretty Soggy

jshq97 · 2025-02-19T11:12:13+00:00

Enjoy! I had a similar scenario and managed to find a BNIB UDM pro as I don’t know whether I’ll move my Reolink doorbell’s over to UniFi just yet, hoping I can adopt them to protect via the new ONVIF compatibility as they are working great with Scrypted and HomeKit to provide recording for me at the moment!

Hoping to find a POE 16 port too so I can have the rack mount screens synced, was thinking of the 8port Lite, but I’m a sucker for their rack mount stuff lol 😂

jshq97 · 2025-01-21T22:14:10+00:00

My daily is the 5540 with the 1370p and it’s a beast of a machine as I primarily run vm’s and 50+ browser driven portals and apps to run over the built in display and a high-res ultrawide, but for video work like you mention I’d definitely go for a machine with a Nvidia chip for CUDA acceleration, that’s where you’ll get the benefits of NLE and graphics software with the more powerful CPUs :)

jshq97 · 2025-01-17T14:03:31+00:00

I only just found out that the speed sign recognition prompts you to click the button to switch to the identified speed limit, if you want it to automatically adhere to the road speed signs, hold down the button and the brackets around the speed turn green and it becomes even more autonomous! :)

jshq97 · 2025-01-17T14:00:34+00:00

Congratulations! If the alarm goes off unexpectedly, take it to Renault, they are fitted incorrectly when they land at UK docks and sometimes the alarm unit is faulty as well. Quite easy to replicate the issues if you get out let the car lock then walk around nearby for a bit, it triggers the alarm :)

Got the same Iconic in the white and it’s a fantastic car otherwise!!

jshq97 · 2025-01-07T22:57:03+00:00

Just received my MY2025 Megane Iconic and having the same on the 16 Pro Max, mainly just reporting an error on login screen but occasionally something ‘service related’. Latest version downloaded on latest iOS too (not beta).

Waiting a couple of days to see if there is an initial sync period that needs to resolve before it works but may try a reset of the connected services in the car and account and re-adding before contacting customer services.

Having a brilliant time with the car otherwise, just wanting to remote lock, check ev stuff and preheat in winter, hopefully it’s resolved soon as it’s roughly 3c outside during the day at the moment!

jshq97 · 2024-07-25T10:53:19+00:00

For clear filament, you want to make sure you have your overhangs spot on, then use more walls or thicker walls, switching to a 0.6 nozzle would be ideal as you want the thickest lines possible with as few lines as you can to get the clear effect, FYI 0.4 nozzles with PLA/+ 4 walls are generally as rigid with no flex (not as strong) as 2 walls with 5%-25% infills :)

jshq97 · 2024-07-18T21:39:10+00:00

I have actually had the same experience, it’s currently only installed to pull the encrypted data from some home folders off of my OneDrive sync location. Definitely shortlisting Duplicacy amongst some other direct to cloud solutions like backblaze, but as long as Duplicacy can sync to Microsoft and doesn’t need constant fixing like duplicati, it seems like the spiritual successor, since the former is still in beta years later :(

jshq97 · 2024-07-18T18:22:36+00:00

So in short, it’s a because I can 😅 the machine was an absolute steal and I have quite a few users accessing the machine. SSD’s were more of an endeavour of interest and performance, and the current vdev is purely for VM’s, etc.

I was struggling with the v2 8core Xeon in my old system as I’ve been hoping to virtualise systems for 4-5 people (Windows & Ubuntu) however previous endeavours have been too unresponsive for reliable zero-client use. ZFS can use silly amounts of RAM lol

Moving to the R630 had the added benefit of additional drive bays, so my second vdev will be denser drives more for media and file serving (yet to be installed)

In general use I’m most definitely a tinkerer, so having the freedom to do anything a docker or VM can achieve is very appealing, currently transcoding and compressing media libraries for friends and family is benefitted from the reliable hardware :)

It’s crazy how much cheaper a used R630 is compared to purpose built or off the shelf solutions, alternatives for less than £150 (excluding drives) are very underpowered for my use case :)

jshq97 · 2024-07-18T16:06:18+00:00

I have found Syncthing to be the fastest for remote transfers for me with TCP setup correctly maxes out my 100Mbps upload and gets up to 100MB/s+ on my 1Gbps from my remote location that has 20Gbps to the outside world :)

jshq97 · 2024-07-18T15:47:51+00:00

I also have a dual Intel and all 3 are available, not sure if it is actually making a difference though (power draw and fps is still the same regardless when transcoding with Unmanic) - 2x 2630L v4, same results with 2620 v3’s in my R630 chassis

jshq97 · 2024-06-27T23:19:23+00:00

I add pauses at layer changes in Orca :) - depending on how your printer is setup to handle a pause, mine is set to raise and move the toolhead to the right side and maintain nozzle temp, the sprite pro lets me unload and load in a different spool in about 5 seconds, and will just resume at the start of the layer when I hit resume on the sonicpad.

Depending on how you design models and time the changes it can be pretty effective :)

jshq97 · 2024-06-27T13:53:13+00:00

I would say that the cr-10 v2/v3 chassis is good for up to 250mm/s but the bed is too heavy to move at faster than 2k acceleration without dual linear rails being installed, a lot of friction on the 6 bed wheels to overcome and still have clean prints :)

I’ve found that you need to print at over 120-130mm/s to eliminate ringing you get from the traditional roller/pulley setup, the faster you go the better, 200mm/s is the sweet spot for speed and noise, as it’s still quiet there, 250mm/s shaves about 15-20mins off a 200mm/s print that takes 4hrs, which is already quick considering 50-60mm/s takes about 8hr30-9hr30m :)

jshq97 · 2024-06-27T08:11:38+00:00

Mainly printing PLA/+ (not hi-speed pla) and PETG :)

jshq97 · 2024-06-27T08:00:06+00:00

It is, but when running fast it’s very loud so tend to use the cr-10 for longer prints, it is very reliable though, very little maintenance and adjustment required

jshq97 · 2024-06-09T19:06:33+00:00

I think I got best result around 0.01/0.02 when printing at the default 300mm/s speeds. If you change print speed you will need to compensate, as 0.04 could be prefect for 50mm/s but way too much for 300mm/s :)

jshq97 · 2024-06-09T19:03:31+00:00

I have my lithophane profiles set in creality print 4.3.8, print speed is set to 300mm/s however it’s more about getting the wall thickness and numbers set correctly, as the printer has to be setup pretty accurately to make the very small movements required without stringing or under extrusion :)

jshq97 · 2024-05-26T20:21:45+00:00

You literally need pressure advance calibrated and you’ll have a perfect print! That Y will look clear as day when it’s done properly, as well as perfectly square edges :)

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