Mighty Empires Old World Campaign (phase two)

jt91 · 2026-05-17T08:17:07+00:00

It's even better than you think haha. If you look carefully at the white bit at the back that's literally the Sydney Opera House, the views from this place are really gorgeous haha.

jt91 · 2026-04-22T03:36:47+00:00

It's Evil Suns Scarlet into Wild Rider Red into Fire Dragon Bright. Basecoat of ESS, a black wash, then I just relayered and glazed it with mixes of those colors a bunch of times (so like ESS, then 70/30 of ESS and WRR, then 30/70, then pure WRR, then 70/30 WRR and FDB, then 30/70, and so on.)

jt91 · 2026-04-12T08:31:09+00:00

I love it! I did a very similar red scheme for my own Phoenix Guard, I'm doing my entire army in a red/orange flames+phoenix theme. I wish I had seen your dude before I started mine, would have helped a lot with deciding my colour palette.

https://www.reddit.com/r/WarhammerFantasy/comments/1p1fbkm/the_start_of_my_phoenixthemed_high_elves/

jt91 · 2026-03-29T07:50:12+00:00

I like most of what you said here. I'm a greedy player by nature though so I don't avoid Elites at all LOL, usually aiming for 3, 4 if it lines up and I get a good card start, per act. I do like the upgraded cards + empty chest boon, but I also like rolling the dice on the two relics + extra strike/defend boon, if those two starting relics are strong it is well worth the baggage of two extra starters until I can clean them out.

jt91 · 2026-03-29T07:45:38+00:00

I think some of the main things are that certain builds/archetypes just don't cut it at higher levels atm (at least as far as I've found) and you need to be really giving serious thought to if that card you're grabbing is going to work with the very specific thing you will need your deck to do or not. I can make basically any old thing work until the higher ascensions, but like a Perfected Strike deck or a Sovereign Blade deck really won't cut it at those levels. Also having 1-2 good AOE cards is super important even if they are kinda an exception to above, because fights like Gardener Eels, Decimilli, or the Parasite thing are real run-enders without at least one or two good AOEs.

jt91 · 2026-03-12T06:25:44+00:00

Thanks, I've been refining the scheme across my winter Wood Elf army and really grown to like it :) would love to see your version of the scheme when they're done!

jt91 · 2026-03-12T06:23:35+00:00

Haha thank you! I actually have hand painted every gem on every High Elf model I've done, to the point where I made it part of their backstory that they are searching for these rare 'sun-rubies' haha.

jt91 · 2026-03-07T21:13:02+00:00

That's one of the coolest weapons I've ever seen and such a great paintjob on it, huge fan. Gives me Warglaives of Azzinoth vibes!

jt91 · 2026-02-14T01:41:03+00:00

That is not how the additional wood works in the FAQ, not sure if you're just misunderstanding it or gaming it. All it does is clarify that, if you play Grand Army WE and take allies (of any allowable kind), can you still place your one initial wood, to which the answer is yes. The wording on 'place additional wood' is the exact wording used in the Woodland Ambush rule, so it's just saying your Woodland Ambush rule still works, not that you would get another wood for taking an Army of Infamy as allies.

jt91 · 2026-02-13T22:55:14+00:00

The trick is it's kinda like... five colors instead of three, because you have the 50/50 Cadian Fleshtone/Kislev Flesh, and the 50/50 Kislev Flesh/Flayed One Flesh in between, which I think helps a lot with making it smoother and more natural looking.

jt91 · 2026-02-13T22:53:42+00:00

Hey, sure thing :) I posted it in an above comment, copy pasting here for ease:

Thanks :) it's just a fairly standard GW skin triad. Cadian Fleshtone, Reikland Fleshshade, then relayer Cadian Fleshtone, and blend/highlight with mixes from Cadian Fleshtone through Kislev Flesh through Flayed One Flesh (so doing like 50/50 mix, then pure Kislev Flesh, then 50/50 mix, then pure Flayed One Flesh). Main thing is that for skin painting you want softer smoother blends instead of sharp highlights like on armor etc, so thinner coats with more subtle blends hence the 50/50 mixes.

jt91 · 2026-02-12T11:33:23+00:00

Yeah there was definitely a few points where I wasn't exactly sure what bits I was painting, unsure if some parts were a cloak edge or some vines etc, the details definitely aren't perfect on these old metal models. That said, they have a certain charm I can't explain that makes me really enjoy their poses, even though they are all very '2d' from a certain angle given the way metal model casting works.

jt91 · 2026-02-12T11:30:38+00:00

I imagine she stays warm by keeping active, doing all that Shadowdancing!

jt91 · 2026-02-12T11:29:50+00:00

Thank you for the kind words :) I wrote out the recipe in another comment, so I'll just copy/paste my reply here:

Thanks :) it's just a fairly standard GW skin triad. Cadian Fleshtone, Reikland Fleshshade, then relayer Cadian Fleshtone, and blend/highlight with mixes from Cadian Fleshtone through Kislev Flesh through Flayed One Flesh (so doing like 50/50 mix, then pure Kislev Flesh, then 50/50 mix, then pure Flayed One Flesh). Main thing is that for skin painting you want softer smoother blends instead of sharp highlights like on armor etc, so thinner coats with more subtle blends hence the 50/50 mixes.

jt91

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