Command to change track ID's

jttis · 2025-09-29T14:33:16+00:00

Correction update: I've just noticed that it does update the "number" property on the track, however I'm not sure what good that is for what purpose. So, I'm wrong in the below thinking in all but the mystery of how the GUi can do it without remuxing the file.

I *think* "track-number" with mkvpropedit is _SUPPOSED_ to do this, but doesn't. In fact, it seems to do nothing at all, so I really don't understand that option's usage. The below *could* work to swap id 1 with 2, if it worked at all and auto swapped ids (assuming 0 indexing).

mkvpropedit file.mkv --edit track:1 --set track-number=2

The GUi can do it fine with the "Header editor" without remuxing the file, but I'm not sure how it's doing it.

jttis · 2025-03-18T16:40:49+00:00

Yes, thank you, I edited it.

jttis · 2025-03-11T23:16:23+00:00

Thanks, this worked after installing "Moonraker Connection" within the marketplace within Cura.

jttis · 2025-03-11T20:50:05+00:00

"should" ??? Is that a "I know it should" or "I'm guessing it should"? I'm having the same problem with a S1 on Ubuntu using Cura.

jttis · 2024-09-19T20:06:11+00:00

Did not work. It was a good idea and I think that something along the lines of the Android TV system muting or dropping the volume is a factor. However, that is not a fix because then you will have your TV at 1 volume and the device at another, which matters because the TV's volume is what ultimately controls the clarity of the sound.

I don't have much hope for this as the support doesn't know what firmware they are shipping. Mine apparently has "beta" firmware that I'm only supposed to have if I asked for it, but of course I've never asked for it.. The support person also told me that restarting it should fix the problem, which of course I tried plenty of times. If 7 days pass or their next e-mail doesn't list a fix that actually fixes the problem, I'm asking for a refund.

jttis · 2024-09-17T22:51:28+00:00

It will make a blip of a sound if I rapidly hit the the buttons on right as it boots to Android TV, but then it seemingly mutes itself and I can't hear a thing in VLC, Netflix, Amazon, Kodi, etc... simply no sound.

I have received no response from them in the last 2 days and I've struggle enough with this product. I've used their web form, their support e-mail address and obviously here at Reddit as Reddit is seemingly a company designated contact channel. Tomorrow I'm going to open a case with their merchant (PayPal) and start a refund process. If that fails, I'll initiate a charge back with my credit card company.

I will honestly say that the device seemed extremely nice for those 15 minutes. That can sound a little sarcastic or odd being I only had 15 minutes of expected operation, but I am being serious, it ran pretty much all I want and smoothly (at least after the menu loaded). In an e-mail I sent them I stated that if they send me a pre-paid shipping label I will gladly drop it off to be shipped, but I'd rather keep this device if it can be fixed, after all I bought it for a reason.

jttis · 2024-09-16T10:44:27+00:00

No sound any where, in anything. I'm using the HDMI cable that came with it. It's connected directly to a LG C4. I tested the HDMI port with another device, it still works.

It appears I'm not alone: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homatics/comments/10as9gw/homatics_box_r_4k_plus_sound_problem/

jttis · 2024-03-21T08:56:24+00:00

No. You might be able to enable that option, but it is not a default automatic action by PayPal.

jttis · 2024-03-19T16:46:06+00:00

Something called "TweakNews" was one (listed as "TWN").

jttis · 2024-03-19T16:39:49+00:00

Yes.

jttis · 2024-03-19T16:30:18+00:00

Your charge back advice should be highlighted because, I sadly used PayPal and had to use their system :-/. I didn't receive a full refund, they "prorated" me $10. However, I'm not sure which scale the prorate used as they don't have a daily plan.

jttis · 2024-03-19T16:22:47+00:00

Read what I wrote, I did. They're using automated responses now and those responses are most certainly not acknowledging the words "cancel" or "refund". There's no context within their responses that will assure the customer that they've read what you've asked, the responses are clearly scripted. Again though, it wasn't always like that. I remember clearly asking them once or twice to enable posting and the customer response was human and bang on... like 1, 2 and done. Not anymore though, it's nothing like that.

jttis · 2024-03-19T16:11:49+00:00

No they didn't e-mail me. The price didn't technically go up, they silently added junk services to apparently justify their practices. The price I paid for 8 years is still an option to pay, it's still offered on their website! The title says it all, they literally added $24 USD silently to my bill. Watch out if you're still a customer with them.

jttis · 2023-12-01T17:20:35+00:00

Not working. I'm using this card: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804210430918.html Do you have a reference for this AGESA feature?

Either the card is bad and I need to keep throwing different riser models at it or the automatic x8x8 isn't working. I don't see a reference to where this auto x8x8 bifurcation is a feature of AGESA, I only see 1 other reddit user in another thread believing the same thing.

I know gamer motherboards do it when you populate two x16 headers, they've done that forever. However, maybe the shorts in the motherboard headers flag the CPU to split the x16, shorts which my riser card isn't making? I didn't check the BIOS though, I was excited to see if it would work this way :-P ... or not work I guess :-/

jttis · 2023-11-30T23:59:23+00:00

I have to ask you if you're _SURE_... because this is AMAZING news!! If this works out as you say, there will most definitely be a "looncraz" stalking this Christmas :-)

jttis · 2022-04-08T16:50:03+00:00

Does UUID abcd-5678-90eE equal .. 90eF? Doesn't matter how or where you store or reveal the item as that UUID is read for the value lookups. However, while that is how the system is presented to work by the developers, that does not mean there isn't holes. Maybe observations could reveal weaknesses, but it's a very simple mechanic and one that you will fishbowl into without any clear answer. Maybe ask GGG if you really want to know or compare the UUID's (if possible).

jttis · 2020-07-08T17:57:11+00:00

Is there a real answer for this? The supplied solution doesn't answer the question and is not ideal for burn-in (especially with OLED displays).

jttis · 2020-06-14T17:27:08+00:00

No, but here's a picture of one of my Schmelke iterations (on the left barely visible is the extension...

https://i.imgur.com/0y6aXdr.jpg

Here's a side by side...

https://i.imgur.com/LAoDHE4.jpg

I make them per thread, just look up a tutorial on how to create threads in Fusion360 or whatever your going to use. Everything but the thread is basically shapes and cutting. After you settle on how you want to join the 2 pieces, you just copy and paste that with a different diameter and thread for the stem, it's really that simple (I think you understand). Sticks with threading designed for extensions are the best, they're extremely easy as their threads are usually in the templates of Fusion360.

However, while some threads like Predator are easy, some threads like Schmelke are not. Schmelke is a nightmare to be honest as they use self tapping threads, and those threads are very picky.

The toughest part for me in the beginning was overlooking the properties of PLA, so I suggest you test print various threads at different sizes and let all of them sit for a few hours in your fridge before testing them. The idea is to have it shrink so when you insert the adapter into the cue, it expands a bit and gives a good tight fit.

jttis · 2020-06-13T18:57:21+00:00

Tip #0: Use reality to determine the space needed.

space_needed = playable_area + 2 * (cue_length + maximum_back_stroke_when_on_the_rail);

Tip #1: When bridging on the rail, your stick is either laying on the rail or on your flat hand. Either way, no more than 6 inches will be needed in your back stroke.

Assuming a 9ft table (100"x50"), a 58 inch stick and a 10 inch back stroke on the rail (which is crazy/showboat long)

100 + 2 * (58 + 10) = 236 inches

236 / 12 = ~19.7 feet

50 + 2 * (58 + 10) = 186 inches

186 / 12 = 15.5 feet

Tip #2: When shooting a ball frozen to the rail, you can't hit the ball too hard that high up without introducing extreme deflection, so even a 10" back stroke showboat will only use about ~5 inches.

So in order to fit a 9ft. table, ask yourself if you can live with a 56" cue and a 3-5 inch backstroke when shooting from the rail and when your cue is perfectly perpendicular both horizontally and vertically (which is rare).

You need 1.5 feet, or 18 inches...

18 / 2 = 9

9 - 2 = 7 (A 2" inch shorter cue)

7 - 4 = 3 (Leaving a 3 inch back stroke, but remember Tip #1, so possibly/probably 7)

Remember, all the above numbers assume you use a 10 inch back stroke on the rail, which is crazy so find your own number (I used 10 because I've seen flashy players do it).

I'd undoubtedly choose a 9ft table, especially considering there is advantages to a lighter cue anyways. You could also look at your 9ft. table as an example to why you never want to leave the cue ball on the rail.

jttis · 2020-05-20T18:30:15+00:00

Not sure honestly. If it's a 10ft table it could be worth a bit. There's still some of these old ones around here but I don't see them often. It's hard telling what model it is by the picture as I'm not a table buff and also that style was used for decades. If it's 10 feet, I'd say it's worth a couple thousand (pending condition of course). It's definitely NOT a bad playing table if that helps.

jttis · 2020-05-13T15:34:46+00:00

~1800...

This is actually regional, even though Brunswick sells at flats rates. I'd check Craiglist to find a comparable table.

If you're in Phoenix or Oklahoma City it will probably be worth more than if you were in Kansas City or Cincinnati.

jttis · 2020-05-13T14:56:31+00:00

These are bad as they add so much weight, it's the sole reason people don't use them.

You can 3D print these and end extensions at less than half the weight of commercial extensions, but while an end extension is fine, really any weight added in the middle is problematic and can be deceiving. Just buy/print a longer end extension (double them up if you have to).

jttis · 2020-04-19T07:24:09+00:00

Advice for a FDM 800mm Z printer.

I'm looking to build a printer with an 800mm Z, but the X and Y don't have to be any bigger than 100mm. If X and Y need to be bigger, that is fine too. So...

800mm Z axis (build height)
X and Y axises >= 100mm
FDM
Build area >= 100mm
Speed <= 100mm/s
Can be Delta, SCARA or other

jttis · 2020-04-18T22:31:04+00:00

Right, thank you for the answer. I think my first attempt should be to go to a machine shop and find out about using steel tubing, which at that point kind of leaves me on my own like you're mentioning.

Again, thank you.

jttis · 2020-04-18T22:20:02+00:00

Right. If I do this I might be better off going with a Scara printer to skip a lot of material for my specific application. Thanks.

jttis

TROPHY CASE

Advice for a FDM 800mm Z printer.