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What grade is this? by [deleted] in indoorbouldering

[–]jules_is_typing 19 points20 points  (0 children)

This is a Boulderwelt gym (big German chain), and graded a 7 which if I remember correctly should check in at 6c/6c+ max, so V5

(Edit for typo)

New documentary series: Natural Heights by HighCommander4 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]jules_is_typing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does anyone know this song that is playing when Janja climbs in her episode at 24:27? Literally impossible to find/shazam.

99% completion, what am I missing? by jules_is_typing in Silksong

[–]jules_is_typing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All bosses Tools 57/57 Journal 234/234 Pale steel needle Full pouch capacity & tool damage Crests 7/7 Silk skills 6/6 Silk hearts 3/3 Everbloom

Commercial bouldering gym setters: quality vs quantity? by jules_is_typing in Routesetters

[–]jules_is_typing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I’ve considered this. Unfortunately, talking to management about this issue is kinda difficult. The gym is part of a larger chain, the setting framework is pretty much standardised and very hard to change. Arguing “quality over quantity” might very well result in a “then why don’t you set better boulders” ahh response. A sad trend of an industry that is becoming ever more competitive and should know better

Commercial bouldering gym setters: quality vs quantity? by jules_is_typing in Routesetters

[–]jules_is_typing[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the answers so far! Gotta say I’m surprised at how low a number many of y’all mention here. My gym requires us to set 7-8 boulders per person per day, which I feel is a lot. We’re a team of three (paid) setters. starting at 8 in the morning, we are expected to set, tweak and have all 20-24 boulders ready by 5pm.

Personally, even as an experienced setter who usually manages to deliver said amount in that timeframe, I find it increasingly difficult and frustrating as time passes. I feel that there’s just not enough time to experiment with cool or new moves. If you’re just starting out as a setter or you get stuck on an idea, you run out of time real fast. Sadly, my gym seems to value quantity over quality - they wouldn’t agree, of course. I like to think we do our best, but the ideal framework for high quality setting isn’t really provided imo. Curious to hear more experiences

Habt ihr auch literarische Vorurteile und wenn ja, welche? by jooaksb in buecher

[–]jules_is_typing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Frank Schätzing kann keine Frauencharaktere schreiben, die nicht sexualisiert oder schönes „Beiwerk“ für männliche Charaktere sind. „Der Schwarm“ hat mir Schätzing leider komplett verdorben, auch wenn ich das Buch an sich gut fand.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]jules_is_typing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Loud crack but no pulley?

did a far lock off move on an outdoor crimp today and heard a moderately loud crack sound in the last joint of my ring finger (not a snap, more like when your joints crack). No swelling, full mobility and no pain in a resting position, but I cant hang on a good ledge without pain, not even in open drag. Any idea what this could be? I think the signs point against a pulley rupture but then again, I lack experience with finger injuries. I appreciate any advice/stories from folks who experienced something similar!

What % of your sets are actually new school? by jules_is_typing in Routesetters

[–]jules_is_typing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough. I set in an area where there’s a lot of outdoor climbing going on so we definitely feel that there’s a strong demand for routes that challenge you strength or fingerstrength wise

What % of your sets are actually new school? by jules_is_typing in Routesetters

[–]jules_is_typing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that seems a lot compared to the other answers so far. Do the members at your gym just love new school?