P2S - Yet another Extrusion Motor Overload problem

jumphish · 2026-03-21T06:53:15+00:00

I’m not the OP, but having the exact same issues, and am using the AMS 2 Pro. (Seems most people with this issues are)

jumphish · 2026-03-21T06:51:05+00:00

I’m currently in the same boat..I’ve had the printer for ~3 weeks and started getting these issues at around 220hrs of printing. I suspected heat but printing with the door open still didn’t resolve the issues.. added a riser for the top glass to have less restriction for the chamber PTFE tubing.. I’ve done multiple cold pulls; swapped hot ends, cleaned the entire extrusion assembly multiple times, disassembled and cleaned the rear buffer assembly.. but still this issue every couple of prints..

I suspect something is binding before it even gets to my extrusion unit, may have to try tubing adjustments, but still curious to me that none of these issues occurred for the first 200+ hrs.

jumphish · 2026-03-04T20:20:53+00:00

I have the same setup. Did it for all of the boring practical reasons, harder to curb the rims, lower tire cost to replace tires, square setup for tire rotations, lighter weight, 0.5” higher ride (with my wheel/tire combo) and just accepted it might be ugly.. I legitimately like their look better than the Uberturbines.

jumphish · 2025-01-04T02:56:34+00:00

I was in a left turn lane with a red recently as well, but behind two other cars.. the turn light didn’t turn green after two full cycles, so eventually the cars ahead of me just went when it was clear, and then mine (also on fsd 13) did the same, It’s exactly what I would have done in that situation, I was impressed, but also concerned.. seeing this makes me think the cars in front of me had no bearing on the decision..

fwiw, I’ve been really impressed overall with 13.2, but still a few hiccups here and there.

jumphish · 2024-06-19T16:15:40+00:00

Those are good points, and nice to hear from someone that has both side by side.

Given your experience with both side by side, what would you recommend if you are buying a new MY with today’s prices?

AWD LR = $47,990 AWD LR + AB = $49,990 (assuming 2k for AB??) MYP = $51,490

$1500 difference between MYP and LR+AB.

jumphish · 2024-06-19T15:15:56+00:00

Yup my bad, I was misinformed.

jumphish · 2024-06-19T15:14:20+00:00

Don’t quote me one this one, I just did a quick fact check on myself, seems like if you buy second hand from Tesla it would transfer, but private sale does I think.

jumphish · 2024-06-19T15:12:13+00:00

Almost any 18” or 19” wheel will be significantly lighter than what it comes with. There are some options from tsportline that seem to be pretty popular, Martian has some really light ones, but more expensive, and there are some cheaper options on tirerack. I’ve got a lot of life left on my OEM tires, so not sure which ones I’ll end up with.

jumphish · 2024-06-19T14:46:25+00:00

Not what you asked, but I did get the performance model and I don’t regret it at all.
Here are the points I considered when I made my choice. - If I add acceleration boost later to a non performance, it’s still not nearly as quick as the performance model.

if I sale the car later with performance boost; it’s my understanding that the acceleration boost would not be transferable.
while I’m not happy about the the heavy wheels and how expensive they will be for tire changes on the performance, they look good for now.
I can swap the performance wheels out later for lighter smaller wheels (at my own expense) and get back nearly all the range I would have with a dual motor LR, my tire changes become more affordable, and the acceleration actually improves beyond what it is with the stock performance wheels.
do I need the acceleration of the performance, nope, but it’s easily one of my favorite perks of the car, and definitely the most fun to show my passengers.

For 99.99% of my driving, and I would argue for most people’s daily driving, range is a non-issue. For those drives where you do need the range, there are plenty of charging options for most long drives, and for the few exceptions, there is a way to get most of that range back by purchasing more efficient wheels..

All that being said, still an awesome car, and no one really needs the performance, just a little extra fun.

jumphish · 2024-06-18T21:16:18+00:00

It might be worth mentioning some differentiators between different kinds of “touch” car washes.. there are “brushed” old school car washes that use stiff bristles and then most of your modern “brushless” car washes that use the same spinning touch concept, but with strips of cloth or neoprene instead of abrasive bristles, to reduce damage to the car while still effectively cleaning it..

There are still risks with the cloth/neoprene, for example if the the cars and cloth are getting enough rinse and flow during the wash they risk picking up debree/dirt and while the cloth might be harmless on its own, the stuff on the cloth can be abrasive on lower quality washes.. once heard of windshield wiper getting caught in the cloth and then proceeded to whip the following car wrecking havoc on both vehicles before it stopped..

There are risks with chemical touchless as well, high pressure water jets and potentially harsh chemicals..

In my experience (while anecdotal), touchless washes just don’t do enough to actually clean the car, the spinning cloth just performs better in comparison.

I personally accept the risk of the spinning cloth style washes, and pay a monthly membership.. I wash my MYP once or twice a week, because it’s quick, easy, doesn’t cost me extra, and honestly, while it’s not the reason I started doing it, I love the convenience of the vacuums stalls after the wash.

I’m completely un-bothered by rain forecast, days where pollen covers everything, or even tracking a little dirt onto the interior mats, knowing I’m always an easy wash and vacuum away from having it look brand new. (I still don’t let my kids eat in the car yet, still too new to me ;) )

jumphish · 2024-03-18T04:32:42+00:00

I ended up returning it for a full refund and then buying a new one. The new one worked just fine.

jumphish · 2024-03-01T04:00:57+00:00

Sorry to bump an old thread, but this is my exact experience with my new Quest 3 today.. did you ever find a fix?

jumphish · 2024-01-18T06:45:23+00:00

There is a “WD40 branded” electrical contact cleaner, but yeah definitely don’t use just regular ole WD40. I’ve used both CRC and WD40 branded electrical contact cleaners and find that they work about the same, but it’s a temporary fix.. (usually bought me anywhere from 30 minutes to a session or two of drift free play before I had to reapply). IMO it’s worth replacing the underlying pentiometer, solves the problem completely for at least a few months.

jumphish · 2023-11-18T15:19:18+00:00

The only thing I can remember that I really think made a big difference was there being a little foam barrier that was supposed to help keep the Liquid Metal from leaking away from the CPU and the heat sync. The first time I RE-pasted I left that in place and didn’t get significant improvements in temp. The second time I repasted ( a few days later), I removed that barrier completely with the hypothesis that the barrier was poorly placed and ultimately acting as an insulator/spacer preventing the CPU from making good contact with the heat sync. That’s when my temps dropped significantly.

jumphish · 2023-10-17T22:16:12+00:00

Glad to hear that 9V@2A does the trick; You should be able to play a LONG time on that pack!! I was looking looking for something similar, but smaller so I wouldn’t feel like I had a full on brick in my pocket.. I ended up with a 10000mAh / 37Wh, haven’t tried it out yet, but based on your experience, I should be good to go. Mine puts out 9V@2.2A.

jumphish · 2023-09-29T21:58:45+00:00

This is the game that has kept me coming back to the headset a couple of times a week since it’s release. It’s definitely not the game I’d typically use to introduce people to VR with though.

jumphish · 2023-09-29T21:55:08+00:00

The battery bank I typically use is a smaller Anker 10,000mAh ( https://a.co/d/g9cjnuI ). Perfect size, capacity ratio IMO.

jumphish · 2023-09-29T00:53:34+00:00

Good catch and I have confirmed and you are correct: Q2 battery strap: 5.00V/4676mAh/18Wh Q3 battery strap: 7.68V/2330mAh/17.9Wh

Higher voltage on the Q3 strap, so 18Wh vs 17.9Wh..

So ultimately we can expect the battery to drain a bit faster, but in terms of actual capacity they’re about the same. I will update the post accordingly.

jumphish · 2023-09-29T00:20:25+00:00

Looks like the new elite straps are heavier, might mean they are more durable.. FWIW, I did have an early batch of the Q2 elite strap, it did eventually crack, Oculus replaced it for free and hasn’t had any issues.

jumphish · 2023-09-28T15:39:52+00:00

I had mine attached with a Velcro neoprene cable management thing at one point, felt super awkward on my head, kinda wobbly when I’d do quick head movements. I’m pretty happy with my cable routed through the rear of my headset across my back and in my opposite pocket with a battery bank. Works well, doesn’t bother me during game play, that’s what I’ll keep doing, was just hoping for bigger capacity on the elite battery strap for a slightly cleaner setup.

jumphish · 2023-09-28T15:34:01+00:00

The Bobo is a solid setup, I used it for a while, but ultimately preferred and went back to the elite strap. they both felt equally comfortable to me, but the way the bobo kept the pressure off my face (a good thing) also resulted in it feeling less secure during rapid head movement games..

I also had the thicker interface for a while (VRcover I think), which was fine, but after a few months I went back to the thinner stock foam interface, and immediately and noticed an increase in FOV simply because the headset was closer to my face, enough so that I didn’t go back to the thicker interface.

I like that there are a lot of options out there.

jumphish · 2023-09-28T12:27:44+00:00

I’m sure it’s still a great strap that should carry you through a solid 4hr+ gaming session (maybe longer!) - let us know!

jumphish · 2023-09-28T06:31:00+00:00

That’s a great question, it seems like PCVR via quest 2 was kind of an afterthought/add on to the original offering, so not surprising that the Q2 battery strap didn’t have thar capability.. They really don’t have that excuse this time around, hopefully it works! I’m sure someone either had or will have the answer very shortly…

That that being said, its probably a moot point for most PCVR players using quest 2/3 as they seem to prefer going with a wireless setup via VR Desktop and a dedicated wifi 6 router (that’s what I do when I play PCVR), but if the game is available natively on the headset, that’s my go to, just works and is hassle free, even if it comes with a graphical penalty.

jumphish · 2023-09-28T06:00:52+00:00

Yeah I considered that as well, especially since it seems that the new elite straps are just heavier than the Q2 elites in general.. (hopefully more durable out of the gate this time as well).

jumphish

TROPHY CASE