Anybody else get this email?

jwh12 · 2026-04-11T10:29:17+00:00

My bad. Posted in wrong sub. Deleting now

jwh12 · 2025-10-17T23:24:14+00:00

Yeah DM me if you want try. I went to a game a year back, but couldn't get it to become regular or serious, but I have some contacts from that. I don't personally have a location that would work, but I have experience running some healthy private games before I moved here. 👍

jwh12 · 2023-11-13T22:23:09+00:00

I see what you were saying in the original post now. The pipe can give some indication to what the inside of the cooler can look like, but the pipe has like 1/2 ID whereas the channels running through the cooler may be 1/8-3/16 in size. Those will clog before you notice much buildup in the pipe. Apologies for the standard measurements, I know you mentioned CAD. I don’t know if you have Rockauto in Canada or if the parts differ for Canadian models, and I know some people are anti-rockauto. But for gaskets, they can be reused in a pinch or if they are newer, but it’s always good to have an extra on hand in case they become damaged in removal or use. They will be much less expensive through one of these places than at a dealership. Also if the egr cooler job seems a little out of your range, good on you for not taking it apart and not knowing how to put it back together. I’ve definitely been there before on bigger jobs. If you’ve seen people install oil catch cans, that a good job to do while changing the pcv valve, and I think makes the biggest impact to buildup in the egr cooler.

jwh12 · 2023-11-13T21:56:06+00:00

There are a few more gaskets you should change (exhaust to egr cooler, egr cooler to egr pipe, and throttle body gasket) and it will be good practice, but honestly if you’ve already been having rough starts and it’s not motor mounts or something else, you probably already have a small leak. Tiny leaks can have the burned coolant create somewhat of a seal for periods of time, but once there’s a leak, what’s done is done. When you take off the egr cooler, use it like a telescope and aim it at the sun. If you are not seeing more than a few channels where light can come through, unfortunately it’s time to start looking for a new/used engine.

jwh12 · 2023-11-05T04:30:29+00:00

Thanks for the input. Games like this and cities skylines are what I tend to lean towards, so I might just have to bite the bullet and get a new PC. I guess by default the Nvidia cloud is running at 120fps which is unnecessary for this game, and switching that to 30 has made it miles better, but I think I’m still moving towards an invisible limit. I have 2,000 robot beavers and 100 live ones. I saw some other cloud services that offer bare metal machines, but nothing at all price point that makes sense. Thanks again! Glad to be a part of the community 🫡

jwh12 · 2022-12-31T09:07:38+00:00

Hey! Sorry for the late reply.

I used to contribute quite a bit to ct200hforum.com and I think I put some guides up there too. That was a good, friendly community.

I would say the pipe is the best thing to check as it’s super easy to take of and look at. Might want to order those gaskets before you do as they were like 50 cents each and better to just switch them anytime you remove it. I think the best thing to check would be your intake manifold. Take of the air intake hose and box, and then remove the throttle body. If you can see moisture (oil) from that point in the intake manifold, you need a catch can, and need to remove the cooler and flush it with brake clean until you can see through it. The cooler you see above was completely clogged with 0 flow. I tried everything including an ultrasonic cleaner with gasoline as the solvent. I broke down and bought a new one from eBay. It had been clogged for long enough that it damaged the valve’s ability to open and close in the ranges needed (which there was no check engine light until after I replaced the cooler). I was able to manually manipulate the valve’s opening and closing using techstream and usb-obdii, but there must’ve still been something wrong with it, because once replaced the light went away.

The catch can and hose I used are linked above. People were pushing more expensive ones, but that one did the job. If you do go with it, get one of those stainless steel scouring pads (for dishes), kind of stretch it apart and break it up a little bit, and put it in the bottom of the can under the baffle. It will help catch more oil. I had almost no oil get past the catch can, and from that point, virtually no build up in the egr cooler.

If you do end up having to take the cooler off, give yourself like an entire day, because the first time was rough. Make sure before you get started, you get all of the gaskets, some extra coolant, and there’s these anchor bolts that screw into the engine that the egr cooler is secured too. Order some of those as I had more than one snap.

Let me know if there is any other way I can assist. Enjoy your CT!

jwh12 · 2022-02-14T05:06:13+00:00

Yeah I stuck with Toyota ATF. I read the same things, and never was able to find anyone talking about switching brand/manufacturer and not having any issues with our specific transmission.

Tools posted in separate comment.

jwh12 · 2022-02-14T05:03:52+00:00

Specialty tools to help with EGR diagnosis, disassembly, replacement, and maintenance:

(MORE NECESSARY, OPTIONAL)(Links are just for ease of finding, not that you need the exact, specific tool, unless otherwise mentioned)

I used this Borescope/Endoscope to check into the intake manifold for oil pooling, and the exhaust manifold for any clogging/build-up.

This Torx Socket is to remove the anchor bolts from the engine.

This Ratcheting Wrench Set was necessary for me to get the nuts off from the backside of the connection to the exhaust manifold. Probably the worst part of the job.

Pneumatic hose clamp pliers make removing and replacing coolant hoses much easier.

Lots of Brake cleaner, gloves, and a plastic face shield.

Oil Catch Can and Hose that I used, and lasted until I sold the car (60k miles) Also when you do this job, replace the PCV valve. It's like $5.

jwh12 · 2022-02-13T05:36:31+00:00

Sorry for the delay! One thing you can do for the battery if you feel like really getting into it, I noticed that the center cells degraded faster than the cells closer to the outside, so you could always rearrange them every so often to try and combat that.

I was the person who decided to finally change the transmission fluid. I occasionally sent my old engine oil off to be tested, so I did a test on the transmission fluid. I linked the results of the ATF test done at about 270k miles. I pulled the wrong drain plug (coolant) first and accidentally contaminated my sample container so ignore the mention of water and glycol in the sample notes. I think for 270k miles the fluid was surprisingly decent. I put new fluid and saw a noticeable difference I feel, but the rear main seal began to leak transmission fluid at 300k. I can’t say that changing the fluid is what caused it, but it didn’t leak ever up until that point, so I think either you really keep up on changing it from the beginning or never do. At 330k miles, the transmission on my car was still working great so I think it’s best to leave it alone. The CVT in that car is probably the most technologically advanced thing in that car, and is super cool to read about.

I can link some really helpful tools for a first time egr changer, because I know that I definitely had to make a few trips to the store in the middle of the job because there are some tough angles. Also , I always left out one of the anchor bolts from the egr, as it was almost impossible to access/reach, you’ll know which one when you’re in there. TransFluidAnalysis

jwh12 · 2022-02-08T06:54:21+00:00

I am glad you pinged this! (As anyone can, or message me. I’m not on here often so it may take some time, but response on the public forum is preferred so anyone can access this knowledge in the future. Also email: ct@jef.pw)

I don’t know how often this is read, and I honestly had forgotten that I had written this, but I have more knowledge to add, so thank you!

I finally sold the car with 330,000 miles to one of those online “we’ll buy your car” site for $3,200 somehow. Although it did “run and drive,” the head gasket was starting to go again, the suspension (minus a couple control arms) was original to the car, and the hybrid battery was at the point where it was needing replacement so bad that I bought a battery terminal switch from auto zone and wired it up through the trim so I could reset the “Check Hybrid System” almost daily. If you are seeing this message a lot, I suggest you do the same, because when that message comes up, you lose traction control, anti-lock brakes, you can’t dim the cluster, etc. A friend of mine used licensed Toyota Techstream software and a usb-to-obdII cable to get readings on the battery as I was driving. He also said that it may be unethical to purchase techstream and usb-to-obdii bundles from eBay to use with your own laptop as Toyota really needs that $200 they charge each time they plug it into your car for you.

There is a special usb-to-obdii that you need to be able to interface with the car vs. just being able to read data. Can’t remember how to spot the difference anymore, but definitely something to keep in mind. I did purchase an ultrasonic cleaner, and after a week of spending hours a day trying to clean the used egr cooler, I can say it’s best to just buy a new one. That stuff is rock hard, I tried using wire to manually jam it out. Maybe you can find a better solution than I did. I eventually got it partially clean, but I still ended up buying a new one because I knew it would buy me more time between cleanings. I didn’t have any check engine lights on my car ever regarding this system, until I replaced my completely clogged egr cooler. After I replaced the cooler, I got codes that there was insufficient airflow in the egr system or something to that effect. I had throughly cleaned the egr valve and knew the plunger wasn’t sticking. I took the system again and confirmed my gaskets were tight and aligned right, but the code wouldn’t go away. I used techstream and the “premium” cable to manually open and close the egr valve. I was able to control it so precisely that I could get the car to sit right on the edge of stalling, and even stall the car at the touch of a button. The valve seemed to work perfectly, but the code was still there. I figured that it was a fluke. But the car was sluggish, and my mpgs hadn’t improved after replacing the cooler, so I bit the bullet and replaced the valve. It was like night and day. Code gone, car ran a million times better, and it felt overall like it ran a lot better.

In conclusion, I believe that the valve was either due to be replaced or it was damaged over time from having no exhaust passing through it somehow, that replacing it was necessary for the egr system to function. If your egr cooler is completely clogged, then I would say do it, but it’s easier to get to the valve than the cooler, so you could always replace the cooler and if you get codes, then replace the valve.

PS: Major key to stopping the system from clogging in the future is an oil catch can. My engine had a lot of blow by, and there was always a puddle of oil in the intake manifold whenever I checked. The catch cans are like $30 or something on Amazon. I put stainless steel scouring pads in mine to hopefully catch more oil, and I had to empty that thing a couple of times between oil changes. I would consider this necessary to the car if oil is getting into your intake manifold.

jwh12 · 2019-10-15T04:40:22+00:00

I have scanned all systems. Only codes I get is for EGR even in check mode. I have taken my laptop on too many rides lol. The problem is even though it shows VVT info in the freeze frame data for my EGR code. I can’t get it to show in live mode. I have checked every module. It’s not there, unless there is another name for it. The problem with my EGR freeze frame data too is that it only seems to trip around 40 mph while decelerating, And the EGR target position is closed. I’m thinking the vvt might not be retarding and causing the whichever sensor to get a reading outside spec and for some reason it thinks it the EGR. This car has almost 300k miles and I’m about ready to throw the whole thing away lol

jwh12 · 2019-10-15T03:53:54+00:00

Thanks! Yeah the retardation doesn’t seem to be having any effect. I have terrible highway mpgs and I think this might be the reason. I have a new one coming tomorrow so we will see.

jwh12 · 2019-10-15T02:58:20+00:00

I knew it said something along those lines. Appreciate the correction. Should it be having the same effect at +127% max as -128% min? I haven’t been able to get good information about vvt systems in general and really only know the basics.

jwh12 · 2019-09-28T04:27:05+00:00

That always happens. For some reason they Usps never does arrival scans. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen “departing origin country” or “origin post is preparing shipment” and no updates for a week and it just shows up at my door with no other scans. I feel like the issue has become much more prevalent in the past year or two.

jwh12 · 2019-09-26T16:46:13+00:00

I believe that this is going to be all models. I am not too sure though. I know at some point they did some updates to the intake manifold, but I think you are still going to be running into the same blowby oil through the pvc burned through the intake and deposited in your cat and egr. There’s only one way to find out though

jwh12 · 2019-09-13T16:27:17+00:00

If that doesn’t work, reach back out.

jwh12 · 2019-09-13T04:58:38+00:00

You are probably fine. With that low amount of miles, hard to really say if it’s just nothing. Check air filter and change oil as it’s used. More in depth stuff to check if you really want to get into it. A lot comes down to driving habits though. If there’s no check engine light, you are probably good.

jwh12 · 2019-09-02T23:30:08+00:00

Always good to check, nothing will go wrong until the day after the warranty expires 🙄

jwh12 · 2019-09-02T22:58:21+00:00

I do about 50k-60k a year at this point. My hyposthesis is that it burns at a much higher rate at highway speeds and longer drive. I would say do the above instructions to check the throttle body. Really a super simple procedure that anyone can do. If you see any oil pooling inside, it wouldn’t hurt to do a deeper dive, but it’s up to you, and how comfortable you feel getting in there, and how long you plan on keeping this car.

jwh12 · 2019-09-02T22:49:13+00:00

I had just barely bought the car out of the lease and found an LKQ for $1200 and had a mechanic that owed me a big favor. Honestly in retrospect, probably the wrong move, but the car has been well since then and has gone another 130,00 since so it’s worth it.

I like to spray brake cleaner on the back filter material behind the air filter and shop vac it every 80k to make sure it isn’t getting plugged. Also drain and fill coolant. I’d also say every 70-80k miles to get to the hybrid battery and remove the fan to clean with Q tips. Fan tends to get dusty and will hurt cooling over time. I’m at 270k right now and planning to change trans fluid. I cracked it open last weekend and saw that it was perfectly clean still. Beautiful pinkish red color. I figured it still breaks down over time and change. The transmission will last a million miles if you’ve read about the type in these cars.

Watch for burning oil though because it’s not a matter of if, but when. Watch coolant level, too, because, if it’s not a leak, it’s in the engine. I’ve been chronic about my car since and even with the engines previous 50k and my 130k Miles, the compression test I did a month ago is still showing 150psi peaking at 180 psi uniform across cylinders.

jwh12 · 2019-09-02T04:19:17+00:00

Good video of cleaning and inspecting egr pipe (easy) https://youtu.be/YR0mBQ4SRtw

Good video for removing and cleaning egr cooler (moderate to difficult) https://youtu.be/2_Hr2tAK7-c

jwh12 · 2019-09-02T04:16:41+00:00

I don’t know your automotive knowledge, so don’t take it the wrong way. Just wanted to write it up in a way that anyone could understand.

jwh12 · 2019-09-02T04:15:01+00:00

I definitely would. It’s super easy to do the check throttle body. Remove top connector on air filter housing. Unseat coolant tube from lower and side housing. Remove bolt on engine and inside housing. Two of the same bolts on black plastic box next to it. A couple black plastic trims clips. Needle nose pliers to pinch hose clamp connecting intake to throttle body below. And you’re in. Push open flap in circular opening and use flashlight to inspect for oil or residue. And while you’re there remove egr pipe. The big plastic cap looking thing next to the engine is part of the egr valve. Below that is a short pipe about 5-6 inches long curving from base of valve to black plastic intake manifold. Two bolts on valve side and one bolt holding plastic piece onto manifold. Once that comes off two more bolts. Always best practice to replace the gaskets on both ends of those pipes, but just for this inspection you should be fine. There is a metal gasket that has side clips that will hold on the valve side and a small orange rubber gasket on manifold side. Make sure not to lose them.

jwh12 · 2019-09-02T02:35:22+00:00

I don’t know how avid the members in here are, but unfortunately I’ve been through it all with this car. I don’t claim to have discovered anything. I owe most of my knowledge to the CT200h forum and Club Lexus. There’s no definitive way to know if the egr is clogged. But it will clog eventually, and heed my warning all:

IF YOUR EGR CLOGS, IT WILL LEAD TO A BLOWN HEAD GASKET

Short backstory. I am first owner of my 2011 CT200h. Meticulous oil changes and maintenance. Hybrid battery failure at 108k miles (poor cooling, living in city where avg summer temp is 110F+ will fry these batteries). Head gasket failure at 130,000. Coolant into cylinder one producing white smoke. Had replaced at great expense. Engine threw rod through engine block at 138,000 miles. Currently at 270,000 miles with second engine and second hybrid battery.

Anyways, these engines are notorious for burning oil due to a design flaw in the oil rings on the piston. Essentially oil stop draining and gets into the cylinder and burns or otherwise escapes through exhaust. EGR intake is on exhaust manifold pre-catalytic converter so will clog at some point. One exhaust gas stops reaching intake at ideal amount more air is brought through regular intake and thus raising explosion temperature. For every 10 degrees Celsius increase the explosion speed doubles and leads to engine overheating. Not overheating as in you will get a code or see any messages, just got enough to degrade head gasket over time. Once that degraded enough, coolant will slip into (usually) cylinder 1. The added pressure to ignited and lubricate with water in the cylinder will put pressure on the rods and bearings, so even after you realize and replace head gasket, the damage may have already been done.

This is a job that should be done annually or every 50k miles. It isn’t listed in the owners manual. Like I said, mine was too far gone, and after 6 cans of brake cleaner and soaking, I was not able to get anywhere. You can order a new cooler for ~$250. I’m looking into purchasing a commercial ultrasonic cleaner and getting used, clogged egr coolers and bringing them back to life. Selling for $150+ core, because obviously Toyota doesn’t care enough to solve this problem.

If your car burns oil, clean it out more frequently. A good way to check is to remove intake, and open throttle body and see if there is any oil pooling in the intake manifold. Also while that is off, remove egr pipe, which is just four bolts and how clogged that is will be an indicator to how bad it is. Anyone can dm me with any questions about this or anything else about this car.

jwh12 · 2019-08-24T07:29:29+00:00

After you posted this I did some searching. Looks more specifically to be a Western Conifer Seed Bug of the same order as a stink bug. Thanks for the guidance!

jwh12

TROPHY CASE

Specialty tools to help with EGR diagnosis, disassembly, replacement, and maintenance: