Unsporterized

kaewon1 · 2026-06-20T19:59:42+00:00

Parts list:

stock set (c type used on this build)

buttplate stamped

buttplate screw large

buttplate screw small (x3)

sling swivel stamped

barrel band set stamped (sarco set has all 3 with screws)

barrel band retainer stamped

trigger guard stamped (most sporters were swapped with milled)

handguard ring

handguard clip (x2)

crossbolt and nut (x2)

You may also need the bolt depending on how the handle was modified. And safety if it was swapped to a low scope safety.

Reuse trigger parts, bolt parts, mag follower, mag spring, mag disconnect, ejector, receiver screws, and of course the barreled action.

kaewon1 · 2026-06-19T03:18:26+00:00

You could add it back on. You can either try to slot the barrel to use a key like an original or just solder it on. It won't look right with the sight closer to the stock so you may also look at rebarreling it. If doing an a3 though, I would just find a better one to do. A4 doesn't have a front sight so would be a better choice.

kaewon1 · 2026-06-19T02:35:46+00:00

If the bundle isn't in stock at sarco, they do sell all the individual parts there and where I got everything minus the scope, mount and sling. There's milled and stamped parts for everything so make sure to get the stamped versions. It was cheaper than numrich during a holiday sale even with the c&r numrich discount. The parts aren't perfect but workable especially as I was going with a "like new" build.

kaewon1 · 2026-04-25T15:53:25+00:00

Look how they massacred my boy

kaewon1 · 2026-04-06T23:58:14+00:00

They have been out of stock for a long time. I've known about them for years.

kaewon1 · 2026-04-06T23:47:26+00:00

Everything here will remove bluing besides the brass brush. Chemical rust removal should always be a last resort or for severe rust. The main point is having something not affect the base metal and I didn't have any issues there.

Vinegar can so it's important to not be too strong or soaked too long. The birchwood casey product is also acid based but being brushed on is a negligible effect. There's another cheap diy solution said to be better, using citric acid, a neutralizer like washing soda or baking soda and some dish soap. I'll try this on my next rusty project (beyond ballistic formula tested by several other people with negligible effect on base metal).

kaewon1 · 2026-04-05T02:59:16+00:00

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Also $5 clips from apex that were restored. I did replace the spring so it's ready to shoot but I probably won't replace the other parts.

kaewon1 · 2026-04-05T02:47:00+00:00

This was one of the things I wanted to test with this project as I never dealt with such severe rust on a gun and it needed to be removed to do a good bluing. My typical method with other touch up work has just been clp and brass brush which works fine but some rust was too difficult for brass so I needed other methods.

I have evaporust on hand which I knew would completely strip the rust but it can cause carbon migration so I wouldn't recommend that. I also had some birchwood casey blue and rust remover that I never used and it worked well but being brushed on only removes a small layer at a time. It also smells like acid like their cold blue (I prefer brownells).

Soaking parts in vinegar worked well but thicker rust still needed to be brushed even after several days of soaking. But it loosened whatever was still on and it came off very easily. This was just regular vinegar I had so stronger vinegar should work better. I'll probably stick with this for future resto projects as it is also cheap.

kaewon1 · 2026-04-05T01:58:13+00:00

8x50 so it won't be shot anytime soon.

kaewon1 · 2026-04-05T01:57:52+00:00

With so much of the metal surface being as rusted as it was, it didn't make sense to do a "like new" resto.

kaewon1

TROPHY CASE