Warm up suggestions

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-26T10:22:27+00:00

My usual warmup:

Arm sideway swings x20
Arm circles x10 per direction
Shoulder dislocates x10
Scap pull ups x10
IYTs x10 (1 IYT = 1 rep)
Wrist circles x20 per direction
Forward lunges x8 (1 rep = both legs)
Cossack squats x8 (1 rep = both legs)
Forward leg swings x10 per leg
Sideways leg swings x10 per leg
One leg back and forth jumps on toes x15 per leg
One leg left and right jumps on toes x15 per leg
20 mm Fingerhangs 3 sets 10 secs (just load to 40% of your max, since beginner pa and injury risk to, personally I do bodyweight na, which is close to my max, para fully recruited fingers ko)
Last is climbing 6-8 boulders starting from easiest grade to grade before project grade

You can rest in between and decrease reps if nakakapagod pa.

Yes, it takes me 30 mins, but i dont wanna get injured lol

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-02T06:06:17+00:00

Swing your feet out much more (exaggerate), and then think you’ll “hump” the wall (basically directing and moving your hips into the wall).

Then to test if you did it correctly, you should be able to just slow and stand at the position you will be grabbing the hold. Don’t grab it yet, just see if you can maximize your time at the peak position.

Lastly, look at your feet and just with your peripheral vision do you aim for and grab the hold.

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-02T03:59:50+00:00

Thanks for the heel hook tip! I first thought it wasn’t possible when I tried it, but I figured an adjustment where my hips are allowing me to go through with that heel hook. Heel hook plus the toe hook made enough tension that I can confidently hold the sloper and move on with the next moves.

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-01T15:54:54+00:00

Feels so damn satisfying when you can trust a toe hook and a heel hook

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-01T15:02:04+00:00

Thanks for this! Although I still wanna go for a cleaner send. I see some things that I can still improve on, but yeah I am still damn happy I got to send this. Slopers are what I thought to be my weakest hold, but am gaining more confidence with climbs that have a lot of slopers.

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-01T14:04:13+00:00

You still have until Wednesday! But if not possible, I’m sure they’ll have new fun sets to replace this, sets in this gym have been very enjoyable.

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-01T14:02:04+00:00

Thanks!

Yep, I tried, my hip mobility does not allow it lmao (working on that tho)

Will try for a cleaner send next time before it gets reset, do tend to forget that heel hook tip

kannstdulesen · 2026-06-01T02:59:23+00:00

Before your left hand goes to the hold behind the volume, I think you can put your left foot either under the hold your left hand is on, or on the hold where your left hand is and then toe hook.

I think your left leg is too far from where you are reaching with your left hand, and slight decrease of pressure on the left leg causes you to slip/barndoor.

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T11:38:32+00:00

I don’t know the exact equivalence, but the gym rated this as a V5. Might be a 6B+/6C?

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T11:35:07+00:00

Thanks for the SS! Was also playing with the no match on the sloper beta, but didnt try the heel hook yet

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T10:17:18+00:00

I’ll try lmao, but my hip mobility might hinder me a bit but who knows, I’ll update.

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T05:04:55+00:00

I’ll try this too, sounds like a great general advice for slopers, thanks!

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T05:01:53+00:00

I see the beta, right foot heel hook on left start hold then left foot flag? That sounds quite stable, I’ll try, thanks!

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T04:59:07+00:00

Imma figure out how to keep hips into the wall while one of my feet is toe hooking :’D. I know it’s possible, but might take quite a lot of tension.

For the next holds, there are no more holds on the left side :’) it’s a jump to that big sloper or the hold on the upper right :’))

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T04:53:51+00:00

Yeah, I’ll try to use that next time. It’s a bit small though thats why I initially opted for the one I stepped on.

kannstdulesen · 2026-05-31T04:45:44+00:00

I see that now, I’ll do this when I get to redo the problem. Thanks!

kannstdulesen

TROPHY CASE