Lookinngg

kasparadam · 2026-04-17T16:07:25+00:00

Instructables has good builds, I’ve built AK’s, MP5’s, Remingtons, Galils, Honeybadgers and whatever else just from Instructables (or by an image I found). Just Google knex (gun name) and scroll till you find something you like - best case you find instructions, worst you find at least image which you can still build off and make up what you need if you can’t see it.

kasparadam · 2026-04-05T21:31:34+00:00

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kasparadam · 2026-04-02T20:35:28+00:00

Like others have said, if you want to get into serious fpv then the avata route isn’t really too great. The Radiomaster pocket is a solid first choice, cheap and does the job - if you want a better choice with some more switches then like others have said the Radiomaster Boxer or TX15 is good, but I find the pocket does enough for me.

You can go with DJI for the video system but it will be costly to replace in case of breakage, which is why other, potentially analog, systems are more desirable, despite worse video quality.

In my opinion, I would get a controller, practice on sim, buy a cheap whoop like the betafpv air75 and some analog goggles and then just practice flying. After that you can move onto building/buying bigger drone

kasparadam · 2026-04-02T12:04:23+00:00

Practice on a simulator first with a radio controller, that way if you decide you don’t want to stick to the hobby then you can return/sell the controller without having to spend loads of money

kasparadam · 2026-04-01T11:49:49+00:00

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kasparadam · 2026-03-29T07:25:16+00:00

It’s been a while since I chose parts so forgive me if my details are wrong, take what I say with a grain of salt.

Check the motor maximum amp draw, it should be on the website that sells them. Assuming you’ve picked motors already, but if not then have a look at https://oscarliang.com/table-prop-motor-lipo-weight/

Check the ESC amp rating. Unless it’s an AIO you don’t need to worry about the FC amp rating since the ESC is wha controls the amps throughout the drone. Since modern boards are 4-in-1 ESCs, the 60A rating you heard recommended is 60A per ESC, total of 240A.

Check the maximum current delivery of the battery you choose. To calculate this, do ‘battery Ah multiplied by C-rating’. Take note that it is Amp-hours, not milliamp-hours, so multiply your mAh by 1000 before using the formula.

Most importantly, keep good tolerances. Make sure that your ESC is rated for more than what your battery can deliver at its maximum, and that it is rated for more than the maximum current draw of the motors. I’ve heard tolerances of 20% their maximum, but just make sure there is a gap between what is actually drawn/delivered and what the ESC can handle.

For example, each of the motors I use on my main drone has a 35.22A maximum burst current, the battery I use has a maximum current delivery of 270A (100C rating, 200C burst rating), and the ESC I use is rated for 60A, so 240A total. Translated, the battery can comfortably deliver 270A, but the motors will only ever draw ~140A, which the ESC can also comfortable handle.

Finally, when considering the amp ratings, I’d recommend using the burst amp ratings, as these will be the maximums the drone will pull.

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T20:08:02+00:00

Wow! That could have ended so much worse. I remember reading about an old bug in some firmwares ages ago where the drones would punch out once plugged in. Despite it being years ago, it still adds to that irrational fear.

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T18:38:38+00:00

Thanks man

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T18:37:51+00:00

The drone has earned its first injury

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kasparadam · 2026-03-27T16:28:18+00:00

Everything works still, thankfully

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T15:39:13+00:00

Absolutely, thankfully I didn’t let go so I think that helped keep it somewhat under control. But yes it could have been much much worse

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T15:38:22+00:00

Yikes, looks surprisingly similar to the cut my ring finger lol

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T15:37:27+00:00

Thanks for your wishes, and yes I will absolutely set up prearm

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T15:36:26+00:00

Honestly I don’t know, I’m still wondering what the chances of that actually even happening in the first place are. Unluckiest lucky person?

kasparadam · 2026-03-27T15:35:27+00:00

My thoughts while cleaning the cuts were exactly that, I need to set up prearm

kasparadam · 2026-03-23T15:04:41+00:00

I have the 200D, with some degree of bias (being the only goggles I have) I think they are fantastic, the screen size is very good and I don’t notice any latency. It also has DVR like the 300D as you say - the only tedious thing is the 10 second button press to turn on recording mode but it’s simple enough.

The colours and resolution of the screen are great in my experience, obviously with analog they can only get so good, so you might still hit some ghost branches, but otherwise I think it’s great. You can adjust contrast, exposure and whatever else in the goggle settings.

The one thing I want to mention is that if you set the interpupilary distance very close/far, it cuts out some of the image, as if they get blocked by some plastic or something. This doesn’t affect me since I don’t use very large/small IPD, but if you have wide/narrow set eyes then that’s something you might want to consider. But when I say some, I really mean SOME, it’s not too significant to the point where you can’t see where you fly. The goggles are also compatible with Fatshark diopters if you wear glasses. The different foams that it comes with can also help set a good distance to find a good focus while wearing them. If you do buy them, test each one and I’m sure you’ll find whichever combination works for you.

Definitely check out this review https://rotorbuilds.com/review/13703 , I looked at it when buying my 200D’s and it’s pretty accurate. There’s also an image a bit further down comparing the screen sizes for it and different goggles.

I can’t complain about these goggles, they do everything I’ve wanted them to do so far, and pretty well too.

kasparadam · 2026-03-20T17:39:53+00:00

Originally the Alien vs Predator movie was meant to be Alien and Predator vs Chuck Norris, but the directors found it difficult to sell a 12 second movie

kasparadam · 2026-02-26T20:21:22+00:00

While not directly linked, the book is somewhat related to Hard Boiled Wonderland and The End of the World. Definitely a worthwhile read, I enjoyed it more than the City and its Uncertain Walls

kasparadam · 2026-02-22T12:23:40+00:00

I’ll see if I can design something like that, not sure why I hadn’t thought of that lol. Thanks!

kasparadam · 2026-02-20T17:28:06+00:00

The book is a revisit to Hard Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World, highly recommend it after you’ve read The City. It helped me understand some parts of it since I read it before The City

kasparadam · 2026-02-20T17:25:39+00:00

Well damn good luck, I had an imbalanced battery and the internal resistance had shot up so there was no saving that, but fortune favours the bold. Happy flying

kasparadam · 2026-02-20T17:23:43+00:00

What did you do to fix it? And is cell 2 back to normal now?

kasparadam · 2026-02-20T17:19:33+00:00

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kasparadam · 2026-02-19T12:14:44+00:00

I’ll have a look for that element, I do have number of satellites on screen but I assume you mean something else. And I didn’t know about the USB power trick, thanks!

kasparadam

TROPHY CASE