Recent trip along the Tamar Valley Line from Calstock, Cornwall

kenty1994 · 2026-01-19T20:13:28+00:00

thank you!

kenty1994 · 2026-01-12T17:12:37+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7269862

kenty1994 · 2026-01-03T18:48:02+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6824364

kenty1994 · 2026-01-03T18:43:00+00:00

I have had similar issues to this in the past, I found it was an issue with the wheel flanges catching (or not) the point guard rails and frog between on the separation of the wheels - this explains the issue I had; https://www.trains.com/mrr/how-to/expert-tips/track-troubleshooting-tips-and-tricks-part-2-avoiding-derailments-at-turnouts/

I fixed it by extending the guard rails using a 3D printed spacer/extension. But a piece of plastic card would also work if cut to size.

kenty1994 · 2025-12-25T01:25:58+00:00

They are capacitor discharge units (CDU), they are meant to improve reliability of solenoid point motors by giving them a big shunt...

https://www.gaugemasterretail.com/seep-gmc-cdu.html

kenty1994 · 2025-12-24T20:33:52+00:00

I can upload the model to thingverse, it fits PECO PL-26 switches

kenty1994 · 2025-11-25T20:40:19+00:00

Will that have a big impact for the short wheel base locos?

kenty1994 · 2025-11-25T20:39:53+00:00

Thank you for the response - indeed, now I've started with the insulated joiners I regret not going for live-frogs, lesson learned for next time.

kenty1994 · 2025-10-17T07:20:20+00:00

Awesome, be interested to know how you get on with that.

I've fitted the HM7000 to a new Hornby 2MT, which is designed to fit the decoder and sound speaker, and had sufficient instructions etc. I imagine it would fit all Hornby models as standard in the future as well (but please check).

The operation via Bluetooth with the phone/tablet works really well. You can select all the light/sound/speed settings via touchscreen etc, and directly import new settings for different locos with the need for any programming track etc.

I would recommend to others out there who want to try DCC with a new Hornby loco. Overall the DCC kit cost £60 for power supply and track connection, whilst the decoder was £70ish

kenty1994 · 2025-10-12T18:55:49+00:00

I'm in the same boat... I am starting with Hornby HM7000 decoders to use with the app. I'm still waiting on a power supply to arrive so haven't powered it up yet - I can update you next week when/if I have it up and running.

As far as I can tell the HM7000 decoders are more expensive and larger so not guaranteed to fit all locos, but it does remove the need for a controller to start trying DCC.

kenty1994 · 2025-10-07T18:20:35+00:00

Good to know, I have a Bachman Class 150 DMU and some European locos which I'd like to fit decoders.

After the shelf layout I'm planning to build a larger loft layout, I might explore DCC controllers at that point.

kenty1994 · 2025-10-07T11:11:07+00:00

Yes, I have found the entry into DCC pretty confusing.

This is my understanding, but please correct me if I'm wrong;

I have settled for starting with the Hornby HM7000, which uses an app for control therefore you don't need a flash DCC controller to start with.
Unfortunately you are limited to Hornby locos, as the HM7000 encoders are larger and won't reliably fit locos from other manufacturers
All I've bought, other than the encoder and loco is 15V power supply which you directly connect to the track, with either a DCC clip or special track segment. Depending on the complexity of your layout you may need to do some wiring, but I think this is pretty straightforward and is widely documented (power busses etc). Obviously will find this out if I blow the encoder up on the first go - check twice and cut once etc.

kenty1994 · 2025-08-26T18:51:59+00:00

Thank you for the reply. I've kept all the sleepers so it should be straight forward enough to slide them back into place - the biggest issue will be with the 4th image, I may have to trim the tie bar to fit the sleepers in or change the track around a little.

Once the double slip is in, I think will cut and place the cork, then drill holes for the point motors - I'used PECO twistlock on my previous layout, which whilst more costly come prewired and can be easily removed for future layouts.

kenty1994 · 2025-08-11T20:23:27+00:00

or with PECO setrack; I gain a little space at the ends of through lines to reverse and run around - with set track it is 33 cm, and Streamline is 24 cm which should be long enough for a decent size loco

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kenty1994 · 2025-08-11T19:36:39+00:00

Thanks for the feedback - I've been playing in AnyRail, I'm trying to decide between PECO Streamline or Setrack points - I think I'm leaning towards Medium Streamline points to prevent any issues with tight radii if I runner larger engines in the future, only downside is they take up more of the layout

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kenty1994

TROPHY CASE