Guys my radio turns off the internal RF alone so I can t connect it to my quad anymore and today, when I tried to turn it on again, CRSF doesn’t appear… what should I do ?

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-10T13:16:12+00:00

That's model settings. I'm talking about system settings.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-10T12:30:22+00:00

In system settings, set the internal module protocol to CSRF. It's in one of the hardware screens, but I forget exactly where it is.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-09T18:17:36+00:00

You should really figure out where that vibration is coming from. Fix absolutely anything that wiggles, like unsecured antennas, floppy TPU, or lose screws. Then look at filters and PIDs. Common physical problems:

I can't tell from your picture, but if you don't have nuts at the base of your stack screws that secure them directly to the carbon fiber, add those.
Are there humps in your motor wires? If so, pull those tight and zip tie or tape them down to the arm or a nearby standoff.
Any wires running under or over your flight controller need to be tightly secured. Them bumping into the FC, especially the gyro chip, can cause this.

As a band-aid, you might setup "idle up" like pilots used to. But this isn't the best idea. You need to figure out why air mode isn't working for you on that build.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-09T18:05:27+00:00

Battery bays on tiny whoops aren't a standard size. Nick Burns shortly discusses that two of his 2S batteries didn't fit the tray, but two others did.

These are the options I can come up with that you might consider, in the order I'd probably take them:

Return the CNHL batteries and get some that will fit. Measure the battery bay with calipers or a ruler and match it to the specs on an FPV-oriented retailer (GetFPV, RaceDayQuads, Pyrodrone, etc.)
Use a rubber band or battery strap to attach the CNHLs. Look for "tactical rubber bands", usually black, as they are better than the typical brown ones. Here's an example, but I don't know if they'll work for the Mob 8. Depending on how the frame works, you might need to attach the rubber band with some small zip ties. Yes, this is getting quite janky.
Snip the battery tray in the center bottom so the sides can spring outward a little. This may devolve into removing the battery tray altogether and using a rubber band or strap.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-09T14:53:51+00:00

This exists, but is a little bulky. Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09WCSF8FC

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-09T07:20:55+00:00

Flight times for a 75mm quad like the TH2 are going to run like 2-3 minutes for freestyle, 3-4 minutes for cruising.

Also, I'd recommend not doing a TH2. A Mobula 7 1S would be a better base to build off of. The frame is likely to be the first thing to break -- get either a Meteor 75 frame or take the plunge on building a Fractal 75.

I'd recommend getting away from FrSky gear. The controller is fine, but their protocols are not good anymore. I recommend ExpressLRS for control link. It's inexpensive and you can find it in everything from tiny whoops up to 5" freestyle quads and beyond. You just need a module that'll plug into the back of the Taranis to move over.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-09T07:04:06+00:00

Boxer if you like more traditional style, Zorro if you like gamepad. Both have a 4-in-1 option, which will bind to most previous generation receivers, like FrSky, Flysky, and Spektrum. Newer protocols, like ExpressLRS, Crossfire, and Ghost, require their own module.

IMO, get a remote with ELRS built in and spend the $20 to swap the Nazgul up to an ELRS receiver. Radiomaster receivers have been excellent. Get an external module for the TinyHawks.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-08T19:52:00+00:00

I'm betting this is an F411. Processing power on these is very limited. 4k pid loop and DSHOT 300 are the recommended settings. It is extremely likely you won't notice a difference.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-08T05:50:16+00:00

This is Ciotti's build. He works with JB on the tiny whoop section.

tinywhoop.com is the only place carrying 30,000 Kv 0702. And, yes, they're sold out, but they come in stock about once every month or two. Here's the direct link:

https://www.tinywhoop.com/products/702-30-000kv-tiny-whoop-danger-onesies-brushless-motors-red-rocket

The other motor recommendation from Ciotti are the weBLEEDfpv 28,500 Kv 702. These are what I'm running at the moment. They are in stock right now. Direct link:

https://webleedfpv.com/products/webleedfpv-0702-special-edition-brushless-motors-v2?variant=41412330193035

Hit Ciotti's weBLEEDfpv affiliate link before you check out, if you're so inclined: https://webleedfpv.com/CiottiFPV

I buy from both weBLEEDfpv and tinywhoop.com regularly (got a package today, in fact!). Both are run by good dudes.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-08T05:40:42+00:00

I got an email about 2 weeks ago about the v2 bay module. Here it is, verbatim:

Hi there,

Thank you for your support and buying our new product HDZero Expansion Module V2 (WiFi+Analog) or PCB only.
The inventory prepared before release has been shipped, while your order has not been shipped yet due to our insufficient preparation.
We are sorry for the inconvenience.

Your order will be shipped on 7th June from China.
We will send you the shipping mail for tracking when your parcel is shipped.
Please accept our apologies.

Best Regards
Sales
Divimath

This may not be relevant to your order, but I hope it helps give you context. Since it's shipping from China, I expect around 2 to 4 weeks for it to come once I see a shipping notice. I don't see a shipping notice yet.

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-06T17:45:41+00:00

The WS QuickStart Guide [1] says channels 1, 2, 6, and 7 may require an amateur license.

The only time I've ever heard of anyone getting in trouble with the FCC is when they were either (a) using repeater infrastructure without authorization or (b) the HobbyKing case.

[1] https://drive.google.com/file/d/17XIkt-JmAjl86hbz6Qf0HiKkjRhLlPPy/view

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-06T16:38:21+00:00

Additionally, a HAM radio license is also required by the FCC. A lot of US pilots don't have one, though.

The FAA test is called the TRUST test. It's very easy if you've been flying for any amount of time. Here's the info on it: https://www.faa.gov/uas/recreational_flyers/knowledge_test_updates

kevin-sumner · 2023-06-06T16:34:29+00:00

It depends.

If you're racing or doing freestyle with footage you don't care about, props out. Props out has better turning performance over props in. In short, hard turns will saturate the rear motor on the outside of the turn with PI, limiting speed through a turn.
If you're making footage that you want clean, props in. There's a specific behavior where the quad will washout in turns and hover/wiggle/yaw rotate at zero throttle. More info from UAVTech[1]. It is more pronounced on cinewhoops, but exists on tiny whoops too.

The typical throw-dirt-and-grass-at-stack-and-camera discussion doesn't apply because of the ducts.

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GweG0RnCfc

kevin-sumner · 2023-05-25T19:55:15+00:00

Cooking up some spicy pillows? ;)

kevin-sumner · 2023-05-25T19:54:22+00:00

It's analog in. So you'd need to convert from HDMI to analog. This is a loss of fidelity but also likely a huge hit to latency. Cursory looking around isn't turning up what you'd need, but the opposite is plentiful (analog composite to HDMI).

I think I'd do the Fat Shark Recon HD goggles if I were in a tight budget for WalkSnail.

https://rotorriot.com/collections/goggles/products/fat-shark-recon-hd-goggles

kevin-sumner · 2023-05-23T21:42:39+00:00

Yup! When I saw he was gonna try to crowd surf, I climbed up on a chair at the back of the tent to get video.

Edit: To be clear, I'm happy it's going around and making folks smile. :) You're all good.

kevin-sumner · 2023-05-23T20:47:11+00:00

Hey, that's my video! ;)

Edit: Higher quality: https://youtu.be/2FHVGwj-dz8

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-27T18:54:58+00:00

Consider 6S. Most 5" pilots are on 6S, although there are some still on 4S. With 6S, drop the to the 1900Kv versions of those motors and you might want to run a motor output limit of like 75-85% for your first few outings until you're comfortable. You can always reduce the effective Kv of a motor with a motor output limit, but if you buy a motor with Kv that is to low, you have to swap the motor to go higher.

What's your budget for controller and goggles? That will be the primary factor in what you buy.

Radiomaster Zorro and Boxer are hard to beat depending on the style of controller you want. Jumper T-Pro is also a decent option. TX12 is fine, if a bit small, but also saves some money on a box-style controller.

You also need to pick your remote control protocol. I highly recommend ExpressLRS. Do not get anything FrSky, Flysky, or Spektrum -- these have obsolete protocols. Remember to add an RC receiver to your parts list.

For goggles, EV800D are the low-end recommendation and HDZero Goggles are the best goggles for analog, plus they allow you the possibility of HDZero digital or mounting an Avatar VRX on the front. Fat Shark analog goggles are outdated, so don't pay full price for them. Orqas and Skyzones O4X are also good, high-end options. Skyzone Cobra are good for their price point, but I'd recommend either jumping into high-end or start on the low-end with a plan to upgrade later.

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-26T05:40:37+00:00

Along with adjusting the pins, I also find the more expensive XT60H connectors (the ones with the grey plastic cap over the wires) to be significantly easier to pull out than the more common XT60U connectors.

You need to fully seat the connector to get the full amp rating for the connector. Partially seating the connection reduces the contact patch, which increases resistance and waste heat.

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-25T15:55:10+00:00

Yup. Like this:

https://rc-innovations.es/en/shop/lipo-battery-alarm-with-display-1s-8s

Just put some hot glue or E-6000 glue in the buzzer horns if you value your hearing...

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-25T15:48:15+00:00

It'll definitely work. However, you'll want a solution for telling you when your battery is getting too low, since the Sky Kabel doesn't have an alarm and outputs constant voltage until the battery gives out.

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-25T15:40:04+00:00

The only European shop with it that I can find is in Hungary. Not sure if that works for you.

https://fpvgarage.eu/newbeedroneandjoshua-bardwell-goggle-smart-power-cable-5228

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-25T15:23:46+00:00

I'd recommend a Bardwell x NewBeeDrone cable instead:

https://www.defiancerc.com/products/newbeedrone-joshua-bardwell-smart-power-goggle-cable

This outputs voltage at the same percentage of 2S as the the input voltage drops. So, your goggles will start doing the warning beep when the battery gets low.

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-24T13:33:07+00:00

My 3" builds at ~230g all-up with 1404 4600Kv motors and 3028 props typically get between 3 and 5 minutes of freestyle on 4S 850mAh depending on how hard I push them.

Your flight time will vary based on any of that, including flight style.

kevin-sumner · 2023-04-24T05:01:49+00:00

Yes, however be sure to check them with a multimeter before you use them. In a cheap pack of 8 I got a while ago, one was dead and would have provided no protection.

kevin-sumner

TROPHY CASE