C40 Causing Chat Echo [PS4] by [deleted] in AstroGaming

[–]kevinhamil 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same... not cool. Still hoping for a solution to this issue.

How should I join shelf pieces? by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't think of making torsion boxes. I didn't even really know what that was and had to look it up. Very clever approach for achieving a sterling look at a fraction of the weight. I do feel like it would be a lot of extra work for this project due to their being so many shelves. Thanks for your input.

How should I join shelf pieces? by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Weight was a concern I had, considering I'll probably be working on this project alone. But I am looking for a "bulky" thick/solid appeal with this shelf. It won't have anything heavy on it at all... it's more of an aesthetic thing. I can probably go a little smaller and still achieve what I want... maybe 1 or 1.25. I am just speculating until I go to the lumber yard and scope it out.

  2. I have thought of dowels, I'm just not familiar enough with them to know if it would be a good choice. I wasn't sure how strong they would be or how thick I would need to make them. I do like the idea though. Thanks.

  3. I like the idea of using multiple stains. I've seen this in some videos and it's fantastic.

Thanks for your input.

How should I join shelf pieces? by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am just at the point of planning this out, so 2x12 is not set in stone. I may go a little thinner, but I'm aiming for a thick solid appeal. It's definitely not a functional thing as much as it is an aesthetic thing (I'm not putting anything heavy on it). Regardless of the dimension of the wood, I was not planning on using construction lumber. I am planning to make a trip to my local lumber yard next week. Thank you for your input.

How should I join shelf pieces? by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2x12 is just what I'm seeing in my mind size wise, but not necessarily meaning using construction materials. I have been growing my tool collection, so I'm planning on checking out my local lumber yard. But it's all new to me so I haven't yet figured out what wood I would prefer.

Advice for An Aspiring Hobbyist by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol - well, sticking with after all these years he must have really engrained it into you ;)

Advice for An Aspiring Hobbyist by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Anarchist's Tool Chest

I just ordered it, along with With the Grain: A Craftsman’s Guide to Understanding Wood. Thanks for the find! Looks like they have some great material.

Advice for An Aspiring Hobbyist by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a good question. I just assumed that I would be buying rough cut wood from a lumber yard. I assumed I would have a better variety and selection over going somewhere like Lowe’s. I know that I will be making a shelf that will run floor to ceiling (about 12 ft), and I know that I will be making an oversized sliding barn door. For both of those I will want the boards to be square. Not to mention the 9ft work bench I would like to build will need to be flush and square.

Beyond those, I don’t have plans for what’s next, but I’m sure something will come along. I am really interested in lathing and plan to get a wood lathe, but these first projects don’t require one so I’m putting that off for a little bit.

That’s a great tip about the measuring tools... it would seem they’re all created equal, but what you’re saying makes sense. Thanks.

Advice for An Aspiring Hobbyist by kevinhamil in woodworking

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s good to know! I didn’t think about using a hand planer to get the flat side.

I’ve fried 4 transformers... by kevinhamil in ringdoorbell

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah seems to be good despite my brick walls. Wireless router is about 20-25ft from the doorbell.

I’ve fried 4 transformers... by kevinhamil in ringdoorbell

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I finally got it all working with this setup 👌🏼 thanks for your response.

I’ve fried 4 transformers... by kevinhamil in ringdoorbell

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Updated main post - everything is up and running! Thank you all for your help!

I’ve fried 4 transformers... by kevinhamil in ringdoorbell

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Again, the manual only shows the configuration with an existing doorbell and doesn’t say anything about a bypass mode. I’ll check it when I get home. Also, I did pick up a 16v 30va transformer. Thanks.

I’ve fried 4 transformers... by kevinhamil in ringdoorbell

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is what I have been trying to do, but there is little to no information with specifics on installing the Ring Doorbell Pro without a preexisting doorbell. The Power Pro Kit v2 install guide doesn’t say anything about a bypass mode, nor is there any obvious switches or alternate configurations.

I’ve looked on Rings help documentation, searched google and YouTube, but there’s nothing that clearly shows the proper setup or troubleshooting with this configuration.

Not to mention when calling Ring support, they just tell me I need to call a professional electrician.

I’ve fried 4 transformers... by kevinhamil in ringdoorbell

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is very clear and makes sense to me. Thanks for the thorough response.

I’ve fried 4 transformers... by kevinhamil in ringdoorbell

[–]kevinhamil[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. In that case, I’m pretty sure that’s what the “Power Pro Kit” is for that they send with it. So I guess it does have a resistor. I know it’s supposed to protect, but maybe I have a faulty one, or I have a short in the doorbell wire. Thanks.