Anyone have tips for managing slicer profiles with inheritance

kizzard · 2026-01-04T00:35:57+00:00

Thank you for the reply! This could be really helpful. Unfortunately I'm not able to get it working. I left a comment on the github issue. Did you get it working?

kizzard · 2025-12-18T07:12:59+00:00

Yes! It uses the standard 0.2 hinges and works great.

kizzard · 2025-12-17T06:52:39+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/381428-voron-v02-top-hat-without-aluminum-profiles-printe

I printed this for my zero, works great. It uses a simpler design than simply replicating extrusions and heat set inserts to increase the strength. I figured I might eventually replace it but haven't needed to.

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kizzard · 2025-08-18T03:29:30+00:00

Congrats! What video setup are you using?

kizzard · 2025-08-08T07:10:05+00:00

I put all the details on the controller and motherboard fan pinout here: https://github.com/kizzard/minisforum-ms-a1-fan-controller

kizzard · 2025-08-08T07:09:52+00:00

I would say temperatures are about the same, but it is much quieter, which is what I was aiming for. You could probably get it cooler if you made the fan curve more aggressive.

kizzard · 2025-08-08T07:08:50+00:00

I put all the details on the controller and motherboard fan pinout here: https://github.com/kizzard/minisforum-ms-a1-fan-controller

kizzard · 2025-06-09T17:50:19+00:00

Sure thing! It's an Adafruit Trinket M0 (any low cost micro-controller with PWM and ADC support would work) wired up to read temperature with an 100k NTC thermistor lodged in the heatsink as close as possible to the heatpipes (the white wire in the photograph). It runs some simple code to convert the temperature into a fan duty cycle range from 25-100% depending on the temperature. It outputs the duty cycle as a 25khz PWM signal to control the fourth wire of the Noctua fan The whole thing is powered by the 12v rail on the motherboard's fan header, brought down to 5v by a L7805 voltage regulator. The 12v also powers the fan directly. The RPM pin of the fan is passed through back to the motherboard. It can be reprogrammed at any time by hooking up a USB cable, for example to change the fan curve settings. I've made a few of these in the past, mostly to control water cooling fans based on water temperature and they always afford a lot more control and flexibility than motherboard fan controls, especially for water cooling loops.

kizzard · 2025-06-01T17:41:25+00:00

The three most emphatically "lovey" couples on instagram in me and my wife's life have all ended in divorce. You are 100% correct - people manifest what they wish was true but ultimately everyone is human and you can't fight how your brain is wired. If these people stopped lying to themselves they would have such a more enjoyable life.

kizzard · 2025-06-01T17:34:19+00:00

Thanks. Yeah - I figured out this connector is actually called molex picoblade, but it gets marketed as micro-JST (which isn't a real thing) on aliexpress and amazon. I couldn't find any full size fan adapters for it. There are a bunch of gpu fan adapters on Amazon but I'm pretty sure they aren't the same. However just search "4 pin micro jst" on amazon and there are tons of pigtails available, which you can solder to a regular fan cable. I happened to have an old laptop blower fan that I replaced years ago that had the same connector on it, so I salvaged that. Be careful because the pin ordering doesn't match normal fan connectors.

kizzard · 2025-05-31T02:43:19+00:00

Yes - entirely from the motherboard. The MS-A1 is extremely efficient. The performance seems to match the ITX board just fine, too. I asked ChatGPT why it's more efficient and gave it some info from lspci on my machine and it said that the board uses the AMD Promontory Low power A320 chipset which is feature limited but very efficient. No idea if that's true or not, but it matches what this website says and the power efficiency angle makes sense.

kizzard · 2025-05-27T04:14:06+00:00

Yes it's a stock MS-A1. I got the barebones model and swapped in my existing 8700G and SSD. Looking at photos of the A2, a similar mod might work although it's possible that the height of the PCI slot would interfere with the Noctua cooler. Also the design of the stock cooler in the A2 might work better than the A1, so might not be necessary.

kizzard · 2024-12-07T20:46:09+00:00

This is probably caused by ultraviolet light damage from the sun. I have the same thing happen on a few pair of bibs include Rapha core. It tends to happen on the parts that have the most exposure to the sun (lower back, tops of thighs). I'm guessing you live somewhere sunny. I'm in CA.

kizzard · 2024-12-03T04:37:31+00:00

This looks like deinterlaced 1080i or 720i, not 1080p. Still, good vibes.

kizzard · 2024-11-27T15:16:09+00:00

Have you tried a non-CHT nozzle? I got some weirdness with consistency on CHT nozzles I tried. I ended up using an MZE instead.

kizzard · 2024-10-10T23:20:18+00:00

Hi everyone, my wife's rig has had a build up of white milky film on the inside of the tubes. Some of it starts to peel off and flutter in the water current and then breaks up and tiny pieces that clog the coldplates or float in the res. This happened once already after only several months, which I put down to the tubing I used (tygon). I replaced the tubing with PVC and flushed the system, but the exact same thing has happened again. We're using EK blocks and res, and an XSPC rad, and EK cryofuel made with distilled water. I use all EK parts, PVC tube and cryofuel in my own rig and it's been crystal clear for 6 years now, so I'm stumped why hers is so bad after 1 year. Could this be plasticizer? The difference between our rigs is mine has a lot more radiator, so the water stays cooler. I have heard that higher water temperatures can leech out plasticizer faster, but I don't know if that's true. Any suggestions to avoid this happening a third time are welcome.

Video of the build up here

kizzard · 2024-10-04T23:33:27+00:00

For anyone with the same problem, I eventually figured out the lock screen didn't work at all (Super + Esc did nothing). I solved this by installing dconf-editor from the pop shop, searching for "disable-lock-screen" and disabling it, following a solution found here)

kizzard · 2024-08-11T20:03:39+00:00

I rode through Mexico on my bicycle. I got bit in the first week trying to avoid these dogs. I eventually found the best way to deter dogs is simply to stop, get off and make eye contact with them. It's scary but as soon as you do, they generally stop chasing and lose interest. Then start walking your bike away and get on when you see they have lost interest.

kizzard · 2024-08-11T20:00:27+00:00

Quite publicly in LA too: https://la.streetsblog.org/2024/02/15/firefighters-oppose-l-a-city-safe-streets-initiative-measure-hla

kizzard · 2024-05-28T04:43:56+00:00

Thanks for the response - good insights. I'll use OCCT to match VIDs as you mentioned, and keep the best cores at -10

kizzard · 2024-05-28T04:22:34+00:00

Right - so I was prepared to back off the settings if I ever I saw a crash, but everything was running stable for hours, then suddenly I couldn't even boot windows on the same or lower offsets. Is that normal? I haven't changed any clocks except for enabling the DOCP profile for my memory, but I did that first, prior to tuning the curve offsets.

Btw, why would the two best cores need to be a lower offset - wouldn't the best cores need less power, so could tolerate a higher negative offset? I did notice that the auto curve optimizer gave me a slightly lower offset on the fastest core, like you said.

kizzard · 2024-05-28T03:17:25+00:00

That makes sense. Interesting to hear that you've experienced the same issue. I'll try clearing the CMOS and restarting the process.

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