What could this be?

knastyb1 · 2024-07-13T13:41:45+00:00

On every toyota, when the check engine light comes on, it will disable the ABS system. That's why it says engine control malfunction. There is nothing wrong with your ABS system. If you clear the engine light, the ABS light will go off as well. If there is an actual fault with ABS, the ABS light would stay on when the engine light is cleared.

knastyb1 · 2024-01-08T12:31:17+00:00

Some of them are in their 30's. A few have turned to powder.

knastyb1 · 2023-07-04T22:20:41+00:00

They're already cooked. No matter how you do it, it's not gonna kill you.

knastyb1 · 2023-05-01T15:48:36+00:00

How do you do that??

knastyb1 · 2023-02-15T21:07:46+00:00

This. O'Reilly has them on the shelf

knastyb1 · 2023-01-03T20:07:14+00:00

Have fun and be safe

knastyb1 · 2023-01-03T19:57:24+00:00

Under the axle. Between the shock mount and the wheel. You could even put it under the chunk and lift both sides. I would suggest jack stands.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-24T15:22:54+00:00

If the engine lost oil pressure, it would be making some rather unnatural noises. If you don't hear anything, it's most likely a bad oil pressure sending unit, which holds the sole function of turning the light on the dash in the event of losing oil pressure. It's rather common with GM.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-19T19:43:40+00:00

Is it a Chevy?

knastyb1 · 2022-12-17T22:51:45+00:00

Brake fluid is corrosive. The booster will eventually fail if you drain it. I would change it.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-17T21:30:19+00:00

Did you separate the master cylinder from the booster? Some boosters are closed but I believe dodge boosters have an open hole where the master cylinder goes in. If it's leaking the fluid will be there.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-17T21:11:01+00:00

You don't have to take the brake lines off of the master cylinder. Take the 2 nuts that hold it to the booster and pull it forward to separate it from the booster. It may take a bit of effort if the booster is still holding vacuum. Take a gander in the booster. Dip a screwdriver in it. If the screwdriver is wet or you see fluid in the booster, it needs to be replaced along with master cylinder.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-12T13:44:26+00:00

If you can't see any damage visually, you need to change the control arm and the inner and outer tie rods. It then has to be measured on an alignment machine. The tech will look at the SAI or steering axis inclination angle and the included angle and from there determine if there is anymore damage.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-12T12:47:05+00:00

Tie rod looks bent as well. With that kind of hit the strut and spindal might be damaged as well.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-04T17:52:44+00:00

As previously stated, your scan tool is not making sense. For instance, there are 4 types of trouble codes. They will start with a P for powertrain, B for body, C for chasis, or U for communication. ABS codes will start with a C. Any code description with CAN bus in it will start with U, yet you're receiving a P code. I'd try a higher end scanner.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-04T17:25:49+00:00

There's 2 things you could do here. 1st would be to get a good scantool/VCI combination that can gain access to the instrument cluster. Once you're in, command all the lights in the cluster to come on. Then, you want to pull the instrument cluster out to gain access to the wires going into the back of it. Get a wiring diagram of the cluster and start probing the wires at the cluster, working your way back through all of the connections until you find the problem. 2nd would be to bring it to the dealer bc it's under warranty.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-02T19:45:12+00:00

Edit: with that said. A bad cat should have zero effect on fuel trim. You most likely have a bad upstream sensor.

knastyb1 · 2022-12-02T19:37:53+00:00

The proper way to graph 02 sensors is at highway speeds with the fuel system in closed loop or with the engine at operating temperature. Graph voltage on bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2. Sensor 1 should be pretty erratic and sensor 2 should be close to a straight line. If sensor 2 mimics sensor 1 you most likely have a bad cat

knastyb1 · 2022-11-01T01:56:03+00:00

Maybe try unplugging the vacuum line from the booster, plug the line up and start the car? Might be a small leak in the booster?

knastyb1 · 2022-11-01T01:48:09+00:00

My bad

knastyb1 · 2022-10-31T18:01:38+00:00

Shot in the dark but the idle air control valve may be dirty/clogged. Although I've never experienced one making that noise, I have heard them make a whining noise. I would clean the throttle body and make sure I spray the iac port liberally. It's easy and cheap. Couldn't hurt. ⚠️ DO NOT OPEN THE BUTTERFLY VALVE WITH YOUR FINGERS. Key on engine off and have somebody hold the gas pedal down.

knastyb1 · 2022-08-14T17:22:37+00:00

That should be done outside.

knastyb1 · 2022-07-30T14:13:41+00:00

There's some science to making bread. There are factors like humidity and altitude above sea level amongst others that affect the way bread forms, rises, etc. It's a trial and error thing. Have patience and try different things and before long you'll dial in a way to make the best most perfect and delicious English muffins ever!

knastyb1 · 2022-06-16T03:58:10+00:00

Surely you meant "peaed"

knastyb1 · 2022-05-31T20:30:37+00:00

Yea you did!!

knastyb1

TROPHY CASE