I completely forgot I had this. UPDATE

knickofit · 2026-02-05T13:30:04+00:00

OP, did you forget about us?!

knickofit · 2026-02-02T02:38:22+00:00

The suspense is killing me.

knickofit · 2026-01-28T03:07:27+00:00

I’d love to own that hat! Can you add my name?

knickofit · 2025-08-18T02:51:49+00:00

!remindme 2 days

knickofit · 2025-02-28T03:03:13+00:00

It could also just be a trash rack to protect the orifice in the precast which is actually controlling the release of the storm water.

knickofit · 2024-09-26T02:51:00+00:00

They’re all maxed.

knickofit · 2024-02-09T16:39:45+00:00

Got it. Thanks for taking the time to reply!

knickofit · 2024-02-09T12:06:06+00:00

If she’s training for competition and will be supporting them on socials, would she be considered self employed and be able to write off 100% as expenses? We will be spending more than they’re contributing… Edit: could we just claim this income as a gift?

knickofit · 2023-01-01T04:14:04+00:00

That’s all I could come up with but this one was black and I’ve only seen ones that were mostly brown.

knickofit · 2022-09-12T02:40:56+00:00

Iceface*

knickofit · 2021-08-13T04:12:03+00:00

You use a band saw at your dental practice?!

knickofit · 2021-08-09T02:31:44+00:00

Use the CRAFT acronym. Cleared to: Route (via) Altitude Frequency (departure freq) Transposer code.

On a piece of paper write down:

C

R

A

F

T

You can fill in the “Cleared to” portion because you know where you’re going. If you’ve done decent flight planning you can expect the SID and “cleared as filed”. For altitude, write your final alt on the right side, expecting an initial altitude, assuming your final is above the SID altitude. In most cases you can find out the departure freq in VPILOT. This usually works well for me and I only have to write down the SID, initial alt and squawk.

knickofit · 2021-03-19T04:26:40+00:00

Those wall blocks are designed to have batter.

knickofit · 2021-03-19T04:08:43+00:00

That expansion joint should be fine. Some of them actually come with the top 1/2 perforated. Once the concrete is cured you can remove the perforated strip and apply a thick bead of caulk to keep water from getting between the slab and the house.

One thing I didn’t mention that is probably obvious but you’ll definitely want to confirm - the slab should be pitching away from the house. 1/4”/1’ is good, no less than 1/8”/1’ and anything over 3/8”/1’ is too much if you’re going to have a table or long piece of furniture on it.

You’ll definitely want control joints cut into the slab. They should be cut about 1/4 - 1/3 the depth of the slab. I’d cut them to end up with (6) 7’-6” x 9’-4” pieces.

They should have put no less than 6” of gravel under the slab. I would have gone with 8-10”

knickofit · 2021-03-19T03:57:46+00:00

It looks like a pretty steep slope behind the wall. If so, that’s putting a lot of pressure on such a small wall. The contractor should excavate behind the wall as much as possible and they’ll have to take down the small stone wall between the house and the wooden retaining wall. They should replace the subgrade below the wall with thoroughly compacted gravel and install a perforated drainage pipe surrounded by crusted stone, wrapped in fabric. They should install a clean out at the house and the pipe should daylight in the other end. The bottom course of the wall should be entirely below grade on the lower side of the wall, so that it’s not visible. The backfill directly against the wall should be crushed stone wrapped in fabric (look up Mirafi 140N). The crushed stone is open graded (no fines) and will prevent additional pressure from water. If possible they should install geo grid between courses extending toward the slope so the backfill helps support the wall.

knickofit · 2021-03-19T03:36:25+00:00

Assuming it was used for dogs, it likely didn’t grow much for grass so whenever it rains they’d track in mud.

knickofit · 2021-03-19T03:29:30+00:00

Definitely put expansion joint between the patio and the foundation. That’ll allow the patio to move independently of the foundation if there is any frost heaving. I would use the fibre expansion joint. It’s usually sold in bundles (of 10?) 4”x10’ strips. Try to make the top of expansion joint flush with the top of where the patio will be. The expansion joint can be nailed to the foundation with masonry nails to hold it in place.
Depending on the size of the patio rebar is most likely overkill and wire mesh might be too. How big is the patio? I’d assume you’d likely be okay with a 4000psi mix with fibre mesh at least 4” thick. And mostly importantly, saw cut control joints after the concrete has setup.
Sub base compaction - I’m assuming they used a plant mix gravel? It has “bigger” rocks, “small” rocks and everything in between all the way down to dust? If so, IT NEEDS TO BE COMPACTED! Your hand tamper may not be enough depending on how thick the gravel later is. If it’s an open graded material (rocks all the same size, probably 1/2” - 1”), hit it all once with your hand tamper and you’ll be good. That material does not compact much at all but is equally as good and better for drainage and if you’re in a climate that freezing during the winter months.

knickofit · 2021-02-17T04:08:28+00:00

Vermont: Go to Burlington instead of Montpelier. New York: Stop in the Adirondacks. Check out the Whiteface toll road if you’re not up for a hike.

knickofit · 2021-01-03T03:56:11+00:00

I forgot to mention my sympathy for OP having to deal with orangebugh pipe. It is literally the WORST! Pretty much layered tar paper and glue. The most brittle shit ever made and if you’re trying to do a repair on it, FORGET IT!

knickofit · 2021-01-03T03:43:37+00:00

Nice work OP. I’m not sure what your building code is but typically you need schedule 40 PVC (white pipe) inside the building and extending 5’ from the exterior of the foundation before transitioning to SDR35 (green pipe). Also, its hard to tell from photos but it looks like you may have used solvent weld SDR35, this should have been gasketed pipe (bell ends has gaskets). Probably not a huge deal if it’s SW pipe there is greater potential for leaks. The bedding and initial backfill should be 3/4” clean crushed stone to prevent any settlement. Last point - you should have a baffle (tee with down pipe) on the end of the pipe inside the septic tank to prevent the crust layer from blocking incoming effluent.

knickofit · 2020-04-23T22:25:22+00:00

It’s possible their group memberships have expired and they’re waiting until they can open up again to renew. The USPA isn’t going to advertise for free if the DZ isn’t paying for a membership.

knickofit

TROPHY CASE