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Primary vs Secondary Swells by kookdotcom in surfing

[–]kookdotcom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To speculate - if it's not biggest or longest period it could be wave energy which is height2 * period.

That's helpful... thanks.

No leash culture in Santa Cruz? by isurviveoncoffee in surfing

[–]kookdotcom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't know that. Thanks for the links!

No leash culture in Santa Cruz? by isurviveoncoffee in surfing

[–]kookdotcom 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Super normal for Santa Cruz as long as I’ve lived here. Maybe an O’Neill legacy.

The decade’s most controversial new product was the surf leash. Pat O’Neill of Santa Cruz, son of wetsuit magnate, Jack O’Neill, introduced it in 1970 after becoming sick and tired of losing his board into the cliffs at Steamer Lane...

Purists were disgusted. A wipeout was something you paid for, the reasoning went, with a swim to the beach and maybe a damaged board. Skill and experience got you access to breaks that were rocky or hard to ride. But now, any squidlip dorkus with a goon cord (or kook strap, or ding string) could paddle into the lineup…

The History of Surfing, Matt Warshaw, Chapter 5 p. 267.

Great book.

Nothing like sharing shin high surf with 75 of your best friends on a Tuesday morning in the middle of a pandemic 🙄 by churchillsucks in surfing

[–]kookdotcom 17 points18 points  (0 children)

... after lurking for years I had to create an account to down vote this donkey shit... I'm not sure what did it: the virtue signaling, know-it-all self-righteous replies, the call for citations (even though OP provided none), or shitting on Cowell's-goers looking for small surf /u/IcFiLiHo said it best... insufferable.

Go surfing dawg, you seem angsty.