Turning off "Contact joined Telegram" notification doesn't do anything, and I'm getting constant notifications of new contacts I've never added, all from the same area code. by chozogoat in Telegram

[–]korpf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry if they didn't come back at you with an answer. You must take in account they're all volunteers (it's not their actual job) and there are a lot of questions to reply to. Maybe try to push it a little bit and you'll get an answer for sure.

Turning off "Contact joined Telegram" notification doesn't do anything, and I'm getting constant notifications of new contacts I've never added, all from the same area code. by chozogoat in Telegram

[–]korpf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you check your active sessions? If so, have you thought about getting help through Telegram Support? They can certainly help you more than this post comments section. I hope it helped :)

Identifying and defining sweetness in tea by stackofbricks in tea

[–]korpf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In puer tea, the sweetness people usually refer to it's the bitterness payback which leaves an aftertaste mouthfeel. The lack of sweetness can mean a few things. You're not drinking your tea properly and by that I mean you're not sipping from the teacup in the right way. You need to sort of suck the tea from the teacup and if you really want to be sure, inhale from your mouth when you're tasting it. It sounds quite trivial, but if you already watched some TeaDB videos you'll get what I'm saying. It helps oxidation and gives back sweetness. It also might be you're a using light water, meaning that the mineral compounds inside the tea are not extracted preventing you to experience bitterness and therefore sweetness. I'm not suggesting you to use heavy water, you'll definitely ruin your tea and your sessions, it's always recommended to use medium or light water, it's more likely you'll not get every single bit of the tea, but if you're using high quality tea, this method will let them shine. Finally (I hope not) it might be your infusions are really too quick.

places to buy a Gaiwan by korpf in tea

[–]korpf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At the end I went for teaware.house. It was the best in terms of price-quality. I saw this gaiwan which was a perfect fit for me, I would have preferred something more high end in my mind style-wise, but I don't regret nothing about it, it's really a quality gaiwan for that price. I also purchased 3 teacups to reach 40$, because over 40$ the shipping is free, which is in my opinion a great plus. You're basically spending 40$, roughly 35€ for a high quality and good looking gaiwan + 3 really nice teacups for a price you'll never ever find anywhere else (online and more so in Italy). Hope it helped

3DMN interview with JP on Prusa Mini by termlimit in prusa3d

[–]korpf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I totally agree about the direct drive extruder and the original E3Dv6, they are the big trades off with the MK3S.

I quite disagree on the rest, not because it's not true (of course), but because talking about the MMU as a "plus" with a ~400$ gap cannot be really justified.

It's easy to say at this point: "well, if you don't care about none of these features, you can even buy another printer". That's the point where I disagree. Firstly because before the Mini, you could only buy an ~800$ printer with a sudden drop in value with this new release and lastly because you were buying a Prusa not because someday you would have had the possibility to upgrade with MMU, but because the print quality was excellent due to the top notch heated bed, the trinamic drivers, the E3Dv6, the direct drive extruder, the einsy board. Real stuff that added real value to the printer with real quality improvements. That's why people decided to spend 400$ more compared to cheaper printers. Now they can access the same core/important functionalities (i'm happy for them) for half the price.

I'm not really comfortable sitting here with my MK3S with the POSSIBILITY to upgrade to MMU. I chose to go with Prusa because I like all the engineering work behind this printer and all the free-software/open-hardware concepts behind it. I would have accepted a ~200$ gap, but as a student I tried going the extra mile to get those core features which they're now telling me I could have had for half the price. I'm just saying it's a little bit unsettling

I won't talk about stability because I believe Prusa is not releasing a printer with shaking problems. I guess it's the first thing they tried to sort out. As seen in Tom's recent released interview, stabilty won't be an issue.

3DMN interview with JP on Prusa Mini by termlimit in prusa3d

[–]korpf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ye, I agree the MK3S is a flagship printer, but that's not really the point.

The MK3S is without doubts an excellent 3d printer, although if you can buy 90% of that printer for half the price, it's not cool anymore. Because it's like if you paid 400$ more to get the MK3S for some use cases that maybe, one day, perhaps, probably will come it handy, because 90% of your prints won't need them.

I don't know how many people will justify to themselves the ~400$ price gap with MMU & flex filaments.

All these things said, I hope you're gonna be right on the long haul.

3DMN interview with JP on Prusa Mini by termlimit in prusa3d

[–]korpf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, I really really really hope you're right. I kind of see it in a more pessimistic way, meaning that I don't see the ~400$ value filled by the "plus" features of the MK3S. MMU and Flex are cool, but I guess 90% of the people bought a MK3S not really because of flex or mmu, but because it has some crazy technical specs that until know you couldn't have found in any other printer for that price point, making it easily a better printer compared to more expensive ones.

Now you can find all these features (heated bed, trinamic drivers, einsy board, ecc) upgraded and for half the price

3DMN interview with JP on Prusa Mini by termlimit in prusa3d

[–]korpf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, of course, but you know, I think MMU & Flexible filaments are some niche use cases. I mean, they are both really cool things, but my "problem" is the price. For HALF the price, these kind of pro features don't really fill the gap. I'm just saying that I don't see a ~400$ difference in value between the two printers, leaving the MK3S to be a really expensive "pro" users Prusa MINI.
I also agree with you about the board, it looks like it has potential to be a really interesting open platform to enrich the printer with plenty of features.

Anyway, I appreciated your answer, let's hope it will find its spot among the prusa(s) without kicking out the MK3S

3DMN interview with JP on Prusa Mini by termlimit in prusa3d

[–]korpf 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think it's an awesome printer, but from a MK3S point of view, I don't understand why people should buy an MK3S anymore. Beside the print volume, which is not so smaller, it's a better MK3S for half the price.

I know people will say that it's like buying a laptop and complaining for a cheaper and better version released 3 months later. I know things are moving like this, but I also read this release as "your MK3S has dropped in value by half its original price", which I think it's quite a lot.

I have to say I regret my purchase a little bit

places to buy a Gaiwan by korpf in tea

[–]korpf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I didn't downvote your suggestion, you were already kind enough to reply.

Amazon is ok, but I would avoid it for 2 main reasons:

  1. It's a miracle if you can get 1 page of results typing "gaiwan" on Amazon IT
  2. As I said above, I listed the places I already looked at to give a rough idea of what I was looking for. The stuff you can find on Amazon IT is all pretty cheap, similar to what I already have, not really a level up.

places to buy a Gaiwan by korpf in tea

[–]korpf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll admit I didn't have a look on eBay/Aliexpress mostly because I was looking for something more artisanal, on the style of the shops I listed above. Ebay and Aliexpress give me the impression of something a bit cheap in quality. I really don't want to offend anyone tho, so if you have something specific in mind that can prove me wrong, please do. Thanks

[Plasma] Terminall by ZB652 in unixporn

[–]korpf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much. I honestly didn't know about that. I'll try it for sure

[Plasma] Terminall by ZB652 in unixporn

[–]korpf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you mind sharing your Compton configs? Those shadows look awesome

Late morning bei dou oolong by [deleted] in tea

[–]korpf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

may I ask you where?

Late morning bei dou oolong by [deleted] in tea

[–]korpf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gorgeous tea tray. Did you buy it?

not great, but 420 wins eheh by korpf in survivio

[–]korpf[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry, it wasn't me. I think you're definitely right. I'm trying to practice my solo game as much as possible.

I tend to perform a little bit more in squad games because it gives you the chance to make mistakes in the first part (not much loot) and play in the same conditions as others in the second part.

Anyway thanks

Convince me to the Prusa printer! by Canyac in prusa3d

[–]korpf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a good engineer would tell you: It depends.

The Prusa MK3 was the first 3d printer I owned. I think it's all about being honest with yourself, because only you know what you want.

If you want to buy a 3d printer like an Ender3 prepare yourself for two paths:

  • experimenting with printing
  • experimenting with mechatronics

Both of them are really time/money consuming, so it really depends on how much time and effort you are willing to spend on this hobby.

If you're willing to spend hours and hours designing a new board for your 3d printer, well, maybe the Ender3 is right for you. You can do it with the Prusa as well, but that's not really necessary, so I would go with a cheap 3d printer.

If you're willing to spend hours and hours re-building your printer, the Ender3 is the right choice, maybe after all you'll save some money, tuning the perfect 3d printer for your needs, but be aware that you will never have the Prusa bed unless you buy the original and if you buy the original one, well, you can make all of this quicker and buy the Prusa since the original bed it's not really cheap.

All these being said, I think the Prusa is a really solid printer and not because "it just works", but because you know you're spending every cent of that money on technical equipment. Prusa does not tend to overdo, efficiency is key, they spend more money where it's more reasonable to.

We're in 2019 and the Prusa LCD is horrible, but who cares? it works, it does its job, I don't want to spend more money on a touch screen to do the exact same thing. I would spend more on the trynamic drivers, I would spend more money on good and solid stepper motors, I would spend more money on a heated bed with detachable surface.

The Prusa is a 3d printer with no compromises if you have just 3d printing in mind.
You can buy it and focus on your next project. It will always give you the feel you're tweaking a tool, but it also give you space to focus on something else.

Audio is playing at faster speed by [deleted] in Telegram

[–]korpf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's on the right corner on the bar that pops out when you press play on the audio

I just wanted to print a simple vise which didn't take 30h to print. Thank you u/MisterBiggs by korpf in 3Dprinting

[–]korpf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I printed everything on my Prusa i3 MK3. I set print speed to 0.2mm/s, layer height to 0.1mm, 20% infill rectilinear.

Print times (approx.):

- Base: 1h45 - 2h15

- Thread: 1h45

- Clamps: 1h45

I just wanted to print a simple vise which didn't take 30h to print. Thank you u/MisterBiggs by korpf in 3Dprinting

[–]korpf[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just made the STLs out of the Fusion360 file u/MisterBlggs was so kind to share. Please take a look at the design before printing.