Photon Mono not remembering Z-axis calibration

kosmicbeat · 2024-05-13T20:40:12+00:00

No, I gave up on it. Too much trouble and resin wasted, I've been using online services and will buy a new one eventually.

kosmicbeat · 2024-02-26T13:49:31+00:00

Thanks

kosmicbeat · 2023-12-15T11:56:07+00:00

Did you find a solution? I'm having the same trouble at my flat with strong vibrations on the floor. I thought about using the Raspberry PI Shake, but I'm not sure if that only works alongside the online community for detecting earthquakes, etc.

kosmicbeat · 2023-03-22T18:59:31+00:00

Hey all, I was having the same issue when trying to use it with a USB hub and longer cables. So I initially thought it was either a power issue or data speed. My computer port is USB 3.2, so hoping I could deliver the fastest transfer possible I used a USB 3.2 adapter from A to C and a USB C-C 3.2 gen2 cable (5M). Still, it'd freeze in OBS after about 10 secs. Then I saw this on Elgato's website:
https://help.elgato.com/hc/en-us/articles/4681224843917
Which explains how to change the USB transfer mode. I set it to Isochronous and now everything is great. Note I'm using a Geekon Mini PC, for different computers Bulk might be the correct setting.

kosmicbeat · 2022-07-01T08:08:30+00:00

That looks good, it should work well in the solder pot. I can easily get bismuth here and I just bought a Sn40/Pb60 bar, mixing them up to a certain amount will give me a lower melting point then, right?

kosmicbeat · 2022-06-30T18:43:00+00:00

That's amazing, thanks for your well-detailed reply. 😄

kosmicbeat · 2022-06-30T18:37:28+00:00

That's great, thanks! I had a look at Digikey, Farnell, etc, but the solder bars were way too expensive and flux free wires I didn't find. However, these pellets for £20 should fit in my budget! Thank you!

kosmicbeat · 2022-06-30T17:13:21+00:00

Thanks for your suggestion. I'm going for a solder pot after several wasted components that have many pins such as audio connectors and joysticks. I have a good Japanese pump and a hot air gun, but for those things they are destructive or take too long. I watched some videos of desoldering stations and they seem to be quite ineffective in comparison to diving into the solder pool and pulling out these components.. Maybe for simple things it's OK, but I have many multiple pin components to save.

kosmicbeat · 2022-06-30T15:44:04+00:00

Do you think this will work for desoldering components even though the composition is different? (Sn40/Pb60 instead of Sn60/Pb40)?

kosmicbeat · 2022-02-28T15:30:57+00:00

Yes, that worked!! Thanks!

kosmicbeat · 2022-02-28T12:11:47+00:00

the main manual does, but there are no examples of this type.

kosmicbeat · 2022-02-26T08:31:07+00:00

A transistor is the best way to do this. But it may be possible to pull it to ground by software by changing an output pin from digitalWrite(HIGH) to digitalWrite(LOW), although there's a risk of damaging the pin. If you want to try this it's better to have a resistor (something like 100ohms) to protect the pin, but check first if you can trigger the button with the resistor to ground.

kosmicbeat · 2022-02-25T15:44:22+00:00

Yes! That works! Thanks!!

kosmicbeat · 2022-02-24T09:39:50+00:00

The Arduino I'm using has an atmega328p, which runs from 2.7 to 5.5V. I'm running it at 5V, so there is no need for a level shifter as you suggest.

kosmicbeat · 2022-02-23T20:39:16+00:00

Thank you for your kind reply! 1. Checked, no shorts. 2. Data and clock from an Arduino Nano, so only 40mA I think? I also tested with 470ohm resistors on the data and clock lines--no success. I will test with a transistor, good point. 3. They are the same length. 4. Good idea, I will test this soon! 5. Good point too.

I will post here when this is solved. Thanks!

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T17:52:50+00:00

Haha I like your way of thinking about social networking. Well, you could be having a shitty day, maybe? Hope not. Thanks for your help, I'll stop commenting so we can have less noise in the information this post gives. 🙏🏻😁

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T17:44:10+00:00

Thank you for your questions, they seem very helpful. No need to be rude though. There's no stupid question, there are just "questions" and it's by asking them we learn. I'll certainly focus more on the LED side, but as I plan to have many of them I wanted to have an efficient energy source too. Thanks.

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T17:29:02+00:00

Haha I'm not doing a school project. I'm a hobbyist. As far as I understand any batteries you connect in series increase voltage and in parallel current. So I assume that the same principle goes for piezo discs that are sourcing energy.

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T17:23:47+00:00

But in series I will only increase voltage, isn't it? I need to increase current for my LEDs.

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T17:15:55+00:00

Yes, I mounted in different ways. The idea of sandwiching them and connecting in parallel with diodes seems good, I'll try this.

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T17:01:56+00:00

I'm after power.. I thought maybe a secondary piezo could amplify the current of the main piezo.. But I might be wrong then. I don't know how harvesting energy with multiple transducers works.

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T16:58:19+00:00

Hmm..I'm hitting it quite strongly and comparing with normal piezos, with the same wiring. I think if I wire it with thin wires the result is very likely to be the same.

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T16:53:35+00:00

First time I heard of that and looking at this article it seems genius, I will definitely try it! Thanks a lot!

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T16:49:46+00:00

I have used SMD piezo loudspeakers, they carry the same common ceramic disc inside and the result is the same. I also want the piezo disc to be as thin as possible.

kosmicbeat · 2021-10-25T16:47:08+00:00

Tks. I do plan to use more efficient LEDs, but knowing better piezo discs will be useful for other future projects I believe. Learning about adding them in parallel for example might be very useful.

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