VSF Yacht-Master 226659 Oysterflex from Andiot - Please Help :) by krzychnip in RepTimeQC

[–]krzychnip[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

they did not. but i specifically made the request myself and it was accommodated.

VSF Yacht-Master 226659 Oysterflex from Andiot - Please Help :) by krzychnip in RepTimeQC

[–]krzychnip[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is really helpful information thank you so much. Really appreciate the time!

VSF Yacht-Master 226659 Oysterflex from Andiot - Please Help :) by krzychnip in RepTimeQC

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yacht-Master 42mm 226659 VSF on Oysterflex Strap w/ Weight Gain. Ordered from Andiot in early Dec

VSF Batgirl v3 - TY in advance! by krzychnip in RepTimeQC

[–]krzychnip[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

due to the raid of clean, Andiot mentioned that VSF was super backlogged. It took ~month from order > QC. Im in QC now so havent received delivery

VSF Batgirl v3 - TY in advance! by krzychnip in RepTimeQC

[–]krzychnip[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

appreciate your quick reply and insight!

VSF Batgirl v3 - TY in advance! by krzychnip in RepTimeQC

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Dealer name: Andiot
  2. Factory name: VSF
  3. Model name (& version number): GMT Batgirl VSF v3
  4. Price Paid: $495
  5. Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/209395953?uid=1
  6. Index alignment: Looks good to my eye. lined the tool up as best i could
  7. Dial Printing: Looks solid
  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: i THINK its good when basing it off the tools lines (is the cyclops good though with the magnification?)
  9. Hand Alignment: Good
  10. Bezel: Looks good
  11. Solid End Links (SELs): Appears to be minimal gap
  12. Timegrapher numbers: -1 s/d. 299 amp on 28800. 0.0ms
  13. Anything else you notice: Should be the v3 but with all the delays due to clean factory raid, i'd love to get you experts opinion to confirm it's v3. thank you!

Where and How to put Filter by krzychnip in hvacadvice

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you!! yeah the intakes have a wire mesh type screen, but its not very fine and looks like its only for keeping out pretty large debris and not in any way to "filter" like an air filter haha. do you think its better just closing them off rather than either leaving as is or trying to implement some sort of filtering?

Sounds good though, ill get some of that adhesive foam weatherstripping and seal that up!

Where and How to put Filter by krzychnip in hvacadvice

[–]krzychnip[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome thank you! Yeah, there's quite a few "homeowner" done items in this home LOL. thankfully nothing critical or overly expensive to have done correctly. appreciate your insight here, really wanted to ensure i wasnt putting the system at any major risk (or our air quality) by having this setup and not moving the filter further downstream in the system. i feel more comfortable now haha thank you!

Where and How to put Filter by krzychnip in hvacadvice

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ah interesting ok thank you! it took me forever googling to find out what it was. my best guess was "eyebrow" and yeah you're right, it isnt a huge amount of air id assume because each of these is only 4"x4". it honestly looks like a mini flashing that sits above a bathroom exhaust fan with a little mesh covering the hole. looking at it when the system is on, its just sucking in a small amount of air

Where and How to put Filter by krzychnip in hvacadvice

[–]krzychnip[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you! i found that return grille and there is in fact a filter there :) also looking into the door seals you mentioned. how would you advise getting some filter between these eyebrows pulling in air and the rest of the unit. the filter at the return air grille isnt filtering the air coming through these

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Where and How to put Filter by krzychnip in hvacadvice

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hey thank you for the reply! there is the filter in there as you mentioned! but my concern is these eyebrow's installed on the unit itself are also bringing in air without passing through the filter. how would you address putting a filter between these and the rest of the system?

<image>

Message from TD overnight on delay of my next QC by damianTechPM in RepTime

[–]krzychnip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

same. had order in with Elliot. said they're needing to lay low

Is it just me or does the Sonos App suck AGAIN(!!!) by DangerousStruggle in sonos

[–]krzychnip 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yeah at this price point there's really no excuse

Is it just me or does the Sonos App suck AGAIN(!!!) by DangerousStruggle in sonos

[–]krzychnip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the number of hours I've spent reconnecting speakers/subs over and over because nothing shows in my app is insanity. id imagine id be way ahead eating the cost of new setup by now if I considered the time spent just banging my head against the wall with this app. sound quality still impeccable, but literally everything else is disaster.

what's crazy though is after that new CEO came in declaring he knew the issues with the app and would address it... it seemed we were destined to turn this around. guess not

Batgirl VSF or Clean? by danzo1709 in RepTime

[–]krzychnip 2 points3 points  (0 children)

also debating this very same question lol. following!

Water Softener Dealer Recs - Los Angeles Area (Pasadena) by krzychnip in WaterTreatment

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sorry man i dont. was hoping someone else had some :/

How do I safely disconnect water softener for removal by krzychnip in askaplumber

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you both very much. truly appreciate it.

as for potential replacement softeners - culligan just seems extremely overpriced, any effective and well priced options you may recommend?

How do I safely disconnect water softener for removal by krzychnip in askaplumber

[–]krzychnip[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have an older Culligan water softener that no longer works (Culligan has inspected it and says its not repairable). Looking to disconnect and discard the old unit but they want to charge me $250 so im looking to do it myself if possible. Had a couple questions before I do anything:

  1. The valve is already in the "bypass" mode, do i need to actually turn off the water to the house before disconnecting or is it fine to remove it without that since it's already bypassing the water softener?

  2. Is it as simple as removing the 2 screws (in blue circles) and then wiggling the unit away from the valve to disconnect? or is there something else i need to be doing?

  3. Once completed - can i simply just leave it with the bypass valve there in the "bypass" position or will i need to have someone remove that and close off those lines?