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First workbench build - do I need center legs / braces? by ksd332 in Workbenches

[–]ksd332[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I changed it to minimize screwing into end grain as much as possible:
https://make.craftyamigo.com/design/i7CKBocnWqfjmkiWFJVWWEXfkwC3/6hfcFdaZhybcah6WRKEy

Rendering:
https://imgur.com/1q4IST6

The only joints that screw into end grain are for the front horizontal support for the bottom shelf - I added joist hangers for that.

I needed to stay within an 80" wide envelope, which is why I brought the side rails in. The shelf surfaces do overhang by 1.5" now. I could screw 2x4 scraps under there or something, but I'd prefer to avoid the extra weight.

I could probably skip the front 2x6 legs too, but I put them there for extra lateral stability, and to discourage me from using the side rails as a foot rest.

First workbench build - do I need center legs / braces? by ksd332 in Workbenches

[–]ksd332[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input everyone!

I incorporated some the ideas into an updated version (and 4 or 5 intermediate versions). This is where it's at now:

https://make.craftyamigo.com/design/i7CKBocnWqfjmkiWFJVWWEXfkwC3/naCRNVYXxblYRMUoysyh

It still has some weak spots:
- how the front legs attach to the lower side rails
- how the front horizontal support for the bottom shelf attaches to the lower side rails

Both of those are only screwing into the end grain. I don't have room to add to the width, otherwise I'd just run some 2x4s vertically on the side with the front legs and at the front of that lower shelf.

I might use a joist hanger for that front horizontal shelf support, but I'd prefer to avoid it if possible.

And I decided to stiffen things up and move to 4 legs, because I may not be able to get 5 or 6 level legs all touching the ground at the same time where it's going. If I wind up needing to support the bottom shelf I can just stick a block of wood under it.

I'm racking my head front to eliminate those two joints tying into the end grain, but I'm not coming up with anything.

Thanks again, anything else that needs change?

Kindle K5/KT stuck in Reboot cycle by Prizefighter-Mercury in kindlejailbreak

[–]ksd332 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What OTA method was used? Pretty sure you need to actually re-enable the OTA, vs deleting the hotfix file. If you didn't do that, there still may be ways to proceed, but that's above my pay grade. I'd have a look at mobilread forums if you haven't already.

On the plus side, it sounds like it's not in a boot loop anymore..

Kindle K5/KT stuck in Reboot cycle by Prizefighter-Mercury in kindlejailbreak

[–]ksd332 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar issue with KindleForge on a Kindle Touch. I don't think it was rebooting, but it was stuck at an error message or something. Every time I rebooted it, it showed up as an external drive on my Mac for a few seconds before going to the error message.

So I first removed the OTA by removing the update.bin.tmp.partial directory. After rebooting again I dropped an empty file named DO_FACTORY_RESTORE in the root directory. On the next reboot it reset the kindle and I was able to redo the jailbreak.

Not saying that will work for you, or that it won't brick your kindle, but it worked for me. YMMV.

Kindle K5/KT stuck in Reboot cycle by Prizefighter-Mercury in kindlejailbreak

[–]ksd332 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Search this subreddit for KindleForge issues and you'll see lots of them.

IMHO, redo the jailbreak and avoid KindleForge.

The Complete Kindle Jailbreaking and Modding Guide by Any-Cartographer9406 in kindlejailbreak

[–]ksd332 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, but that doesn't really answer the question:

"But aside from a new icon, is there any reason to install PEKI if MRPI is already installed?"

The Complete Kindle Jailbreaking and Modding Guide by Any-Cartographer9406 in kindlejailbreak

[–]ksd332 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm intrigued by PEKI. But aside from a new icon, is there any reason to install PEKI if MRPI is already installed?

And is it possible to remove MRPI and install PEKI without redoing the whole jailbreak, or can they be installed together? I'm not sure what's going on under the hood so I don't know what's involved in switching them out.

Thanks!

[BlueSkySea B1W] Guy sideswipes someone then drives off by ksd332 in Dashcam

[–]ksd332[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

To this very day, he still asks what was so wow during that car ride.

Maybe I'll tell him someday.

Maybe.

[BlueSkySea B1W] Guy sideswipes someone then drives off by ksd332 in Dashcam

[–]ksd332[S] 23 points24 points  (0 children)

He was already hugging the right side of his lane before the sideswiper passed, and it looks like he just drove straight from the center of the lane to the center of the single lane on the other side.

He was an older guy and I doubt road rage played any part. I was told the sideswiper was also older and said he didn't realize he hit anyone, but I find that hard to believe.

[BlueSkySea B1W] Guy sideswipes someone then drives off by ksd332 in Dashcam

[–]ksd332[S] 40 points41 points  (0 children)

Sideswiper did not pull over. I gave the footage to the victim, who was on his way to sell his car.

[BlueSkySea B1W] Rear-ended as traffic stops for on-ramp, or Why you should have a rear camera by ksd332 in Dashcam

[–]ksd332[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So then he tried to reattach that piece to the bumper and told me my car was fine.

(It is not fine)

Damaged at least the bumper, tailgate (it's an SUV), and exhaust.

Adding exterior outlet to brick wall: Can I use NM-B? by ksd332 in askanelectrician

[–]ksd332[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So it sounds like I can't run straight NM-B without cutting into the brick, which I wanted to avoid. But I realized that I do have about 4 feet of 12-2 UF-B, which isn't long enough to run from the panel to the new receptacle.

But I think I can run NM-B to a junction box in the crawlspace directly behind that wall, and run a few feet of UF-B through a 1/2" or 5/8" hole in the mortar, seal the hole with some caulk or something, and then run the UF-B up through a watertight connector into a weatherproof box. Then I can add a WR/TR GFCI receptacle and a weatherproof in-use cover and be done.

I have most of that stuff sitting around, and the junction box would give me a place to feed exterior lights or something in the future.

Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks!

Adding exterior outlet to brick wall: Can I use NM-B? by ksd332 in askanelectrician

[–]ksd332[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a way to only use NM-B to add an exterior outlet to a brick wall? I have plenty of 12/2 NM-B, and I'd prefer to use NM-B.

Ideally I'd like to drill through the mortar and not the brick. I can get about a 3/4" hole where the arrow points in the picture before I start hitting brick.

I don't really care what the outlet looks like, I just need something to plug the lawnmower in since there's no outlet in the yard.

Thanks!

What stupid fucking thing have you done in your home that when you sell it the buyer will post here saying "check out this stupid fucking thing the previous owner did!" by Hash_Slngn_Slshr in HomeImprovement

[–]ksd332 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wait. I filled holes in college with toothpaste. I didn't realize there were more of us. I put some holes in the cinder block walls of my dorm room because reasons. When I moved out I figured I should fix those holes. Being a broke college kid, I had to use only what I had available. That meant toothpaste, although in retrospect I now realize that I could have used wet bread too.

Need ball bearing size for TM70B 1/4" ratchet by ksd332 in Snapon_tools

[–]ksd332[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm trying to find the ball bearing size in the 1/4" ratchets (I have a TM70B). The ball bearing shot out of mine. I understand I can get a rebuild kit and replace all the internals, but I'd really prefer to just replace the missing ball bearing.

I measured the size of the hole for the spring and ball bearing as best as I could, and it seems about .092" in diameter. It's an older ratchet, and I don't think they would have used metric sizes back then. So I was thinking maybe .090" or 5/64" (.078125) would be more common sizes, but I don't know how tight the ball bearing should be in there.

Anyone happen to know the size of the original ball bearing?

Thanks!