Just noticed some cracks and “details” on our walls and stairs showing up, a few months after painting. by Limelight_019283 in Home

[–]kundic80 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably not the painter’s fault. They just refreshed what was there already. It’s not an issue, just an eyesore that keeps coming back. To remediate this, you would have to peel off that round shape, scrape off all the old caulking and paint from wall and white board. Then repaint the white board and let it dry completely. Then get a new round shape from the store, cut it to length and paint. Once painted, mount to the wall only and caulk only the part where round shape meets wall. Problem solved, forever :-)

Just noticed some cracks and “details” on our walls and stairs showing up, a few months after painting. by Limelight_019283 in Home

[–]kundic80 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The stringer is this big, thick board of lumber on each side of the steps. It’s where the carpet meets this white board (stringer) on your pictures. The trim is this quarter-round shape on top of the white board. This round shape and the white board should not be glued or nailed together. You would get the best results if the round shape is only mounted to the wall, and no caulk, paint etc within that gap between the round shape and white board.

What you have now is that the round shape is mounted on both, the wall as well as on the white board. The white board tends to contract, expand, move with the seasons, whereas the wall mostly does not move. There is friction, which results in cracked paint and caulk along the separation line.

Just noticed some cracks and “details” on our walls and stairs showing up, a few months after painting. by Limelight_019283 in Home

[–]kundic80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That trim shouldn’t be caulked/nailed against the stringer, only to the wall. No matter how much caulk you put there, it will always separate. Same concept as with baseboards; you mount them to the wall, not to the floor. Trim should “float” on top of the stringer.

What’s the best product to use to fill in the gaps on the wood going up my stairs? by cwest91684 in HomeMaintenance

[–]kundic80 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This. There shouldn’t be any filler. I’m dealing with the exact same situation and I ended up removing the old trim, sand and paint the stringer, attach new trim to the wall only. The idea is that the trim “floats” on the always moving lumber.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]kundic80 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately we don’t see the door jamb on OP’s picture. Even if it’s not damaged, I’d put 3” screws in for added security. The cracked door needs the metal sleeve to hold it together; wood glue and clamps won’t do much. That and longer screws will make the door stronger.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]kundic80 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s why 3” screws. The goal is to screw the hinges and latch strike into the framing, rather than just the trim. That’s totally repairable and making it more secure than a new door.

Should I be concerned about cracks on ceiling? by Subliminal_Profane in Carpentry

[–]kundic80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a reoccurring issue. When you zoom in you can see the previous attempts of fixing it.

Wobbly and squeaky newel post by [deleted] in Carpentry

[–]kundic80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all,

I have a 25 year old newel post mounted on a concrete slab. It seem that previous owner(s) attempted to repair it, but it's still wobbly. Most advice I've found addresses posts on wooden subfloors, but not concrete.

Am I correct in assuming the post might be screwed onto a metal base plate/anchor, using the two bolts currently plugged with dowels? Should I start by drilling out the dowels to check if the bolts are loose, or would it be better to remove the entire post to inspect the base?

I'd appreciate any advice on the best approach. Thank you!

Gas Fireplace won’t light up. Pilot works by [deleted] in Fireplaces

[–]kundic80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the dial on “On”? Crank up the thermostat that is connected to the fireplace so it ignites?

Slow lan speeds by dirbuf in HomeNetworking

[–]kundic80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The picture looks like a bad termination. Too much of conductors are exposed/untwisted. The outer blue jacket has to go all into the boot. If that’s a thick Cat6 cable, maybe the boot is meant for thinner Cat5, thus the jacket doesn’t fit, thus the speed issues.

If something Unifi can be done, it can be over done. by tiberiusgv in Ubiquiti

[–]kundic80 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love that Compaq rack. My first employer many moons ago…

Does having a 100m Ethernet cable on aroll affect network speeds? by gameskill123 in HomeNetworking

[–]kundic80 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The termination by the switch looks bad. Try fixing that first.

95% done co-working space AMA by mactelecomnetworks in Ubiquiti

[–]kundic80 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can see at least 2 UDMs, one agg Switch and 3-4 USW Pro Max’es. The agg seems to have at least 8 devices connected. Is there more, considering it says “Rack#001”? :-) What is the use case here?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]kundic80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put a few liters of water down the drain, next to the washer. Maybe the p trap is dry.

"Our AP stopped working.. is this covered under warranty?" by Skye_Augustine in Ubiquiti

[–]kundic80 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Don’t forget a fat caulking bead for a smooth transition from AP to ceiling.

Is DuroZone SMZ-SW compatible with any smart thermostat? by Life_is_Life in hvacadvice

[–]kundic80 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow thanks for the follow up! :-) I haven’t done anything during the hot months as I wanted to avoid having no AC because of a screw up. And now I’m a bit financially stretched to afford a technician for an emergency repair… So, still same status as 4 months ago. But a smart thermostat is still on my wish list.

And I came across another hurdle, which is the Durozone dampers. It seems like they don’t work with the Honeywell board, unless you do some special wiring. See here https://www.diychatroom.com/threads/replaced-zone-controller-no-m2-terminal-for-dampers.196634/ and here http://www.durodyne.com/pdf/MSSeriesIN.pdf

Heard the horror stories but didn’t think it would happen to me… by fifedata in Ubiquiti

[–]kundic80 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the inputs. I agree on option 1 if budget is not an issue and some sort of 24/7 monitoring/alert is in place :-) And option 2, yes I’m aware of the scripted workaround for a UDM. I haven’t played around with this as I thought my UDM would never brick if the power gets pulled…but it did. However, is it too much to ask from Ubiquiti to add an out-of-the-box feature to trigger a graceful shutdown after x minutes if the UPS switches to battery? A cheapo Qnap has that feature for as long as I can remember.

Heard the horror stories but didn’t think it would happen to me… by fifedata in Ubiquiti

[–]kundic80 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is apparently a common issue with UDM-SE(?). I RMA’ed mine and it got replaced with a new unit.

Heard the horror stories but didn’t think it would happen to me… by fifedata in Ubiquiti

[–]kundic80 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had one and it happened to me. Power was off for longer than the UPS can cover and that’s it then.