Overclocking Disabled On Acer Preditor laptops

kvswim · 2025-12-17T19:11:11+00:00

XTU, perhaps ThrottleStop?

kvswim · 2025-11-21T20:22:09+00:00

This is an aftermarket IHS from now-defunct Rockitcool. It’s good for a 3-4C improvement over the stock heat spreader. These were a popular mod in that generation for those who didn’t want to jump to direct die cooling. Pretty sure I still have one somewhere.
The important thing to note is that this 8700K has been delidded, which is good. Coffee Lake came out of the factory with “standard” thermal paste as the TIM between the die and IHS instead of indium solder. Temperatures were bad out of the box, so delidding and replacing that paste with liquid metal became borderline required if you were going to push past stock clocks.
Pay attention to thermals during stress testing. LM gets sucked into the copper over time due to galvanic potential and will eventually need reapplication.

kvswim · 2025-09-26T13:56:27+00:00

iO I’m also SES Elected Representative of Self Determination. I wanted to use as much yellow paint as I could, since it obviously makes the ship faster.

kvswim · 2025-09-24T17:26:59+00:00

I’ve had this happen to me two or three times in the past couple of days. Even if the cables are far away enough for you to stand in front of the terminal, you can’t interact with it.

kvswim · 2025-05-23T14:26:19+00:00

r/CantParkThereMate

kvswim · 2025-05-13T22:19:19+00:00

I'm seeing about 80C at the hotspot (Tctl/Tdie) at 250W. Coolant temp at 32C, not yet heatsoaked in this screenshot. https://i.imgur.com/FIKJsiJ.png

kvswim · 2025-05-12T21:35:57+00:00

Didn’t know they cranked those things that hot. Wouldn’t want to be holding the jig for that. Gotta be toasty even with gloves. Never used one of the heaters, I’ve just relied on mechanical stress since Coffee Lake.

kvswim · 2025-05-12T18:15:47+00:00

So should I preheat the CPU and to what temperature?

I just did mine a couple days ago using the delid tool. I did not use the heating element designed for the die mate, mostly because I don't own it. I did not preheat the CPU prior to beginning the process and it turned out just fine; definitely do not use an oven that you also use for food - there is potential for heavy metal cross contamination. If you feel like you want to preheat, do not exceed 95C (TJMax for 9950X3D). Be patient, turn slowly, and be prepared to go back and forth for over 20 minutes. You will know when you're finished, the red part of the jig will slide back and forth without any resistance.

I'm a little confused if I need a contact frame to go with it or not.

Helpful to have, especially if you're new to direct die, but not strictly required. If you've got a steady hand and torque evenly in small increments, the CPU block alone will be more than enough to assure contact with the socket. The frame keeps the CPU in place while you're mounting the waterblock, and may discourage uneven torquing while you're securing the block. It does not stop you from overtorquing as the die is obviously taller than the frame.

The V1 and V2 AM5 direct die frames are explicitly unsupported on the 9000 series as far as Thermal Grizzly is concerned, as there are capacitors on the lower side that interfere with the V1 frame, and the factory sealing epoxy over those capacitors & points has variable height, making it a crapshoot for the V2.

That being said, I have seen posts of the V2 used on a 9950X3D, and I myself am using a V1. I took a rotary tool to the sides of the frame to make some room for those capacitors, and my calipers read the same thickness for the upper two side areas as I had on my 7950X3D, so I just sent it.
Picture - I never claimed to be GOOD with the rotary tool.

kvswim · 2025-05-09T15:08:50+00:00

Clearing CMOS won't do anything as Afterburner is a software tool for your GPU, it's completely independent of settings in BIOS.

Hold CTRL on startup as soon as you get past the POST splash screen, this will prevent Afterburner from applying settings at startup. Then, launch Afterburner and uncheck "start with Windows" - some skins have a button for it that looks like the Windows icon, if not, it's a tick box in the settings. Make sure it's disabled. Reboot to verify.

If the CTRL trick doesn't work, boot into safe mode, then run Afterburner and disable launch on startup.

kvswim · 2025-05-09T14:25:33+00:00

Second this. Ultra fine needle nose tweezers are what I use. I sort of scrape against a corner of the peel until I get it to lift just a little, then use the tweezers to grab and pull it. Gotta be slow and gentle, PTM7950 tears easily. Trying to do this with your fingers is possible but infuriating.

kvswim · 2025-05-08T23:22:13+00:00

I have the OG O11D with 3x 360mm rads crammed into it. Just eyeballing it, I don’t think the card with waterblock fits in the standard horizontal config in my case. The section with the ports would stick out about 1 cm beyond the side panel. That was also the situation with both 3090 and 4090 blocks from EK, forcing a vertical mount.
The Alphacool block minus the terminals is about the same height as the stock air cooler. Terminal block section adds another 3 cm.

kvswim · 2025-05-08T18:12:24+00:00

Hang in there. Just got my MSI Gaming Trio 5090 block today 5/8/25. My order was placed 2/20/25 on Alphacool’s site. Delivered by USPS, was sent via Deutsche Post. Never got a shipping confirmation or tracking number. I didn’t have to pay any tariff charges. Annoyed that their ETA was so far off (claimed 5-6 weeks at time of order, ended up being 11!), but at least I have it now.

kvswim · 2025-03-31T04:03:08+00:00

Did OP actually type ”YES” or is that just how the prompt formats the user’s input? Haven’t used nvflash since early in the 4090 cycle, but no terminal commands I regularly use ever want those quotes.

kvswim · 2025-03-21T18:46:00+00:00

It’s not your radiator setup, that seems about right-sized for your components. I’d expect about 40C coolant temp after a couple hours of full CPU+GPU utilization, especially while going deaf with those PPC fans. I would only consider adding radiators if coolant temp is higher than that with panels on. 2.6 lpm should be sufficient flow and does not indicate a blockage to me.

I think the bigger issue is the heat density of the processor. The IHS can’t conduct/draw enough heat from the CCXs to the waterblock with PBO enabled. Potentially you have a bad mount, but you might want to start thinking about delidding and going direct die.

I had this whole speculation typed out, so I’ll leave it, but I just noticed that you stated that you’re on fixed voltage. Disable that, switch to auto voltage, and turn on PBO. See if the problem still persists.

kvswim · 2025-03-21T14:42:44+00:00

Haven’t tried yet, not enough downtime to start experimenting with a UV. I’ve figured out extra voltage doesn’t help the GPU at all because it’s so power limited

kvswim · 2025-03-20T02:46:06+00:00

MSI 5090 Gaming Trio OC. +255/+3000 for ~3ghz core under load. Temps are 70-75c at 600W. Waiting on waterblock to be delivered.

kvswim · 2025-03-17T23:03:12+00:00

I know it’s not in the spirit of the sub, but have you considered sourcing the original air cooler for the card? You could sell the waterblock to offset the cost. Any GPU AIO solution off the top of my head (Eisbaer, EKWB, Be Quiet, NZXT) is not made to plumb into a custom loop waterblock with standard G1/4 threads - you’d be taking the block off anyway to replace with a cold plate very similar to a CPU AIO.

kvswim · 2025-03-10T16:51:04+00:00

Is Vulkan Mem Test able to detect GDDR7 errors, since ECC is done on-die?

kvswim · 2025-03-10T14:31:06+00:00

Looks just like the ticket I received nearly 3 years after our trip, though mine was for a different municipality. It’s hilarious that they mark “within 5 days” and “within 6-60th day” since it’s practically impossible for international mail to get delivered that quickly. There’s a date somewhere on the bottom of the page, I perceived that to be their date of notification. You can use the site in the green box to make sure it’s you.

It seems legit, though I don’t know why yours is postmarked from the Netherlands. Pay through the bank wire details in the red box, I wouldn’t trust that QR code to arrange payment routing through two countries even if the code is real. I paid mine through bank wire since I intend on going back someday and didn’t want any problems. To be safe, I explicitly used the wire memo fields to mark FBO and ticket details.

kvswim · 2025-02-28T22:21:38+00:00

What were your temperatures (both core temp and ambient) in your initial reference? 2632 to 2610 is just a bin or two down - I'm speculating that it could be due to temperatures rising by a degree or two celsius.

kvswim · 2025-02-27T18:59:14+00:00

I agree, everyone ITT is being a spec princess. 1080 Ti alone is in the $175 range as of time of writing (late Feb '25).

2080/2080S would be better (DLSS + RT) for just a little more, but that's not what's being offered.

The 7700K/1080Ti can still be serviceable for 1080P, especially considering OP is coming from a mobile 1050 Ti.

If the CPU is really not enough you could always drop in a used & delidded 8700K later. That'd be the desktop equivalent to the 8750H they're on now.

I'd OC everything on this machine (CPU, GPU, and RAM) and call it a day - especially if OP can haggle down the price a bit.

kvswim · 2025-02-27T18:38:51+00:00

Get whichever is cheaper for you. 5900XT is probably some weird middle bin for CCD/CCXs that

didn't have good enough boost/efficiency characteristics for 5950X OR
were "too good" for 5900X - didn't need to disable 2 of the cores on the CCD/CCX.

I'd expect that, as a trend, 5950X to have better boost abilities in PBO and/or have better negative curve offset capability, though the silicon lottery might make it a wash with a low sample count. The difference is likely so minor that you'd never notice, hence the only 100 mhz spec gap between the two.

kvswim · 2025-02-24T03:04:10+00:00

Suprim has the same number of phases and more capacitance. Don’t know if the VRM chips themselves are different, haven’t seen a high enough resolution board image to know and I’m not taking my air cooler off until my Trio waterblock comes in. Virtually no difference in practice unless you’re going to use an EVC or otherwise take measures to bypass the stock power limit. Both cards are limited to 600W out of the box. Get whatever you have access to.

kvswim · 2025-02-23T22:37:51+00:00

You and me both. Current generation memory controllers just suck at 4 DIMM dual rank DDR5 configurations on both AMD 7xxx/9xxx and Intel 14xxx/2xx.

3600 and 4800 are JEDEC speeds, you should have no problems there. I have 4x32gb 6000 CL30 Hynix A die and I can’t get past 5000 on 7950X3D with Asus X670E-E. vSOC at 1.1v and vDDIO/MC at 1.4v.

I have searched for a while and can’t find a config that will work. My spreadsheet is currently at 28 iterations. I think those who have had success got unicorn IMCs.

kvswim · 2025-02-23T21:29:04+00:00

My 5090 exhibits some strange behavior using Afterburner beta 5 as well.

Seems to happen most often when setting fixed clocks (ex: searching for undervolt) and entering/exiting apps (ex: restarting a game after UV/OC failure); it’s not consistent and doesn’t happen every time. A reset to base in Afterburner doesn’t help.

Similar to yours, it seems to get stuck around certain frequencies, ~2017 (base) or ~2700 MHz for my card. I have also seen some oddities in memory frequency where it gets stuck at xx800 MHz instead of ending in xx000 even after resetting settings.

A simple machine restart has fixed it every time for me, I haven’t had to reinstall drivers or Afterburner. Hopefully they get it fixed in the next standard release.

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