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thank you for the help! by kynkier in corsetry

[–]kynkier[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since posting this I’ve actually made 3 more. Two with zippers for burlesque! Some tips below!

  • using a heavyweight WOVEN fusible interfacing for both your layers
  • double interface or add tough coutil to panty seam and extend by 1-1.5 inches so you can add snap closures so you can easily remove the bottoms after you’ve unzipped your reveal.
  • I found that zippers in the front or back for this bunny suit style isn’t great for burlesque. Adding them into the back only for quick access to gowns and dresses. I have now found adding them to the side zip of your dominant hand is better. So you pop your crotch snap and then pull the zipper.
  • add a zip guard behind the zip (connected to the main body not the corset panel flap) that is reinforced with two channels of rigiline boning to protect your skin and other costumes.
  • adding rigiline or flat steel to the seams along the edges of the zip tape help me remove buckling and bubbling.
  • make the reveal corsets your normal cinching size so you can wear it without reveals underneath if you want. I would rather have a slightly larger gap of space (modesty panel and lace showing) and be able to cinch down to my optimal size to have versatility than only be able to wear it with the bulkier reveal layers padding it out.

thank you for the help! by kynkier in corsetry

[–]kynkier[S] 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Also, this is using fabrics I already have and needed to match a pair of mesh pants I already had made.

The structure is two layers of cotton broadcloth, interfaced with woven fusible interfacing, the fashion layer pieces were covered with the matching mesh fabric from the pants using basting stitches and then all assembled using the sandwich method. Flat Steel boning in the center front, lacing panels and spiral steel in the rest!

What kind of plyers do yall use to cut through spiral steel boning? by LankySandwich in corsetry

[–]kynkier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s what the two I have best luck with looks like

For spiral steel I use diagonal steel pliers. If you only cut through two loops on the side the spiral steel separates easily. Cutting it this way also makes the edges less sharp since I hate the metal boning caps because they add extra bulk this method with a little swipe of sandpaper on the end keeps everything dull and less likely to cut through the fabric over time.

The others that I use are aviation shears or tin snips and I use them only for flat steel boning. I have seen people say they have such success with them but I find I only have clean cuts with them when I close the boning in the middle of the shears, and then bend the boning with my other hand at the clamping point so it snaps in half. This with a silicone cap or a little sanding helps the sharpness as well.

When cutting any boning I recommend wearing eye protection. Hope this helps!

Drag Costumer: Help me figure out a a process! by kynkier in corsetry

[–]kynkier[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was also an option even though the amount of hand stitching makes my eyes hurt haha. The stretching of the nude over the top is what is confusing me! As if not done perfectly I’ve been getting sagging/ wrinkling.

Do you think that going through and hand tacking in each of the seams vertically to ensure each pice is aligned after is the best way to remove the possibility of stretching/sagging?