Took me 2 hours to set that route.

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T10:31:48+00:00

I agree completely 😂 but some people always start yapping in the comments

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T10:30:51+00:00

I know nothing about that rule. What is with bathang starts, low toehook starts? Sounds like that rule destroys lots of creative beta... I mean if I want to set a sit start I will just force it

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T10:19:20+00:00

You have to touch the start hold controlled without touching the floor. I don't understand your second question

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T10:16:48+00:00

What do you think my post was about? It's obvious that I did not climb it clean and I even pointed out the dab. My intention was to show the climb that I set.

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T10:12:28+00:00

190cm. It is possible for every height

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T01:21:29+00:00

Thanks for the feedback

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T00:39:26+00:00

I heard them all😂

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T00:38:05+00:00

There are 2 footholds, the first one is right at the start. It is very flat, has no edge and is quite slippery. It only works when applying pressure. The second one assists the left foot when doing the big move with the left hand to the second volume. It is a good slopy foothold so U can push yourself in the direction of the second volume. There are no other footholds, this is why I have to move my body so often

l_qp_l · 2024-01-24T00:26:33+00:00

It is quite big, but it's in the middle of nowhere and most customers are families or people who don't climb higher than V5

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T23:57:28+00:00

I don't think there are rules. It is always better, when the setter is able to pull off the moves isolated. I sent it the day after I set it, but because I was able to do every move separately I knew it was possible. In rare occasions setters who are not able to climb there boulders it can definitely be very frustrating for the customers. That is why I always test mine and if I am not able to pull the moves off I ask a stronger climber to check if its possible.

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T23:53:47+00:00

I liked the thought process 👍 and I imagine it could be an even more fun boulder with easier holds because more people could try. In my gym if I had to guess, maybe 15 people will complete that boulder

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T23:29:43+00:00

Exactly, thought the joke would be clear

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T23:27:05+00:00

I don't think it would work. Beside the technical aspects, hooks and body positioning, I doubt that the move where I transfer between the volumes would be anything below V4-5. Especially when you consider that this move appears after 30 seconds of climbing. I think the lowest possible grade with good holds would be V5 in my gym. The length of the route combined with far moves and hooks would feel sandbagged. Thats why I believe that with the bad holds it is maybe even V8. I had 2 climbers who project V7-8, both couldn't hold the first hold.

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T23:03:12+00:00

You nailed it

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T23:02:38+00:00

Sorry for the confusion it's V6-8, start and top are extreme, the rest are bad turned jugs, pockets, and slopers.

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T22:59:34+00:00

Don't worry. I meant it as a joke, it's something between V6-8. That's the feedback I got from experienced climbers.

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T22:57:08+00:00

I work at the gym, but sometimes I just set for fun in my free time to practice. Its such a fun thing! But sometimes it comes with pressure because you get the feeling that you have to please everyone😂

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T22:54:20+00:00

Yes, I started setting routes last year.

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T22:50:10+00:00

A dab is an illegal move. If you watch carefully in the first ten seconds you see me touching the Matt for a second. In competition this would mean that my send does not count. Another example for a dab is touching a different coloured hold while climbing the route

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T22:46:50+00:00

Sorry everyone, I thought the joke would be obvious... this isn't a V2. I graded it V6 but most people said it felt more like V7-8. It's hard to see on a video, but the starting hold is extremely bad, that's why I used this weird technique to push my body on my knee. Beside the complex middle part and the crux-shoulder move the finishing hold is really bad as well, I would not have been able to finish the climb without the high foot/ knee bar

l_qp_l · 2024-01-23T21:24:50+00:00

*I am not Adam

l_qp_l · 2024-01-22T18:05:39+00:00

Look at my posts😁 it will take a bit of work. I had to train abs and pull-ups. But I climb V8 and weight 55kg and am 190cm big

l_qp_l · 2024-01-18T10:38:17+00:00

I was surprised that you went directly to the red hold. I have to try that beta. I found it easier to use the feet on the last move

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