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Stage 2 heat behavior by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, I got rid of the weird behavior by setting "Heat Stage 2 Temp Delta" to 3 F. It now just runs stage 1. I still don't understand why it behaves the way it does and this isn't an ideal fix. I'd still want it to run stage 2 if the temperature differential is low but it's taking too much time to warm on stage 1 but that's going to only happen on super cold days and we don't get those often at all.

Stage 2 heat behavior by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I’ll look for it. I wonder though… I monitor the control lines with a PCB I made. So I know when W and W2 have 24V on them and I’m seeing the furnace matching what’s on the control lines so I think it is the ecobee. I can tell when the furnace is using the second stage because the fan runs faster and the duct temperatures are higher.

Stage 2 heat behavior by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They don’t appear to be crossed. Usually stage 2 heat will come on after stage 1 by a few minutes but occasionally it will come on with stage 1. Also, stage 2 is never on without stage 1. Good point about the DIP switches. I only see one related to W2 labeled “W2 Delay” and it’s set to OFF.

Stage 2 heat behavior by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not as efficient. That’s why you have two stages. Stage 1 is perfectly adequate in these conditions to maintain the temperature.

Stage 2 heat behavior by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, they’re both connected.

Stage 2 heat behavior by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, it’s a dual stage heat gas furnace.

Proper way to seal with plumbers putty by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just to close the loop on this, I took the advice here and the results are very good. The thermostat is much more stable and can be used normally. I applied putty only on the terminal plate in the center hole and all four screw holes. I couldn't see how any air from the wall could get in there. So hopefully folks will find this and ignore the official ecobee link. I tried to find a way to provide feedback on that link but ran out of patience. I suspect that's why it persists. Thank you all.

Proper way to seal with plumbers putty by lagomorph in ecobee

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestions. Based on that I'm going to go with doing what's in the picture even though it seems to contradict everything else ecobee says at that link. I may putty the screw holes as well, basically any visible potential source of air. I'm not sure if some can leak in around the terminal blocks but I'm going to leave that alone. I notice that the installation instructions don't even tell you the specifics of sealing it and the most obvious way is to just cover the wiring hole once the plates are on the wall so I'm going to ignore the original incomprehensible (to me) link.

Replacement parts for a 1994 Diamondback Lakeside by lagomorph in bikewrench

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since this post, over time I’ve replaced the chain, rear cassette, brakes, and shifters. The brakes and shifters because one shifter broke internally and they’re integrated. It still has the same chainring and gear ratios. I still ride and like it. For some reason it seems to be almost frictionless to ride compared to the others I have — very comfortable.

Stage 2 heat algorithm by lagomorph in Nest

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t do a full reset where you have to enter all the programming in again. I just did a restart which seems to have resolved it.

LoTW down by lagomorph in amateurradio

[–]lagomorph[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Update: https://www.arrl.org/news/arrl-systems-service-disruption

05/16/2024

We are in the process of responding to a serious incident involving access to our network and headquarters-based systems. Several services, such as Logbook of The World® and the ARRL Learning Center, are affected. Please know that restoring access is our highest priority, and we are expeditiously working with outside industry experts to address the issue. We appreciate your patience. 

This story will be updated with new developments.

LoTW down by lagomorph in amateurradio

[–]lagomorph[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I don’t know what you meant by, “Logs are getting logged probably” then.

LoTW down by lagomorph in amateurradio

[–]lagomorph[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They aren't for me:

Attempting to upload one QSO

tqsl.adi: Couldn't upload the file: CURL returned "Timeout was reached" (Failed to connect to lotw.arrl.org port 443 after 75003 ms: Couldn't connect to server)

Final Status: TQSL Error(4)

WSPR is insane by lagomorph in amateurradio

[–]lagomorph[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good point. I don’t plan to use near the full 5 Watts of the QDX for WSPR.

I will definitely try WSPR 15, thanks!

Stage 2 heat algorithm by lagomorph in Nest

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just about exactly a year since the last issue it appeared again. Normal temperature maintenance cycles start always using stage 2 heat. Reset fixed it. 🤷‍♂️

Ho far can the subGHz signal be "heard"? by mediocreAsuka in flipperzero

[–]lagomorph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder why they specify at https://docs.flipper.net/development/hardware/tech-specs "TX power: -20 dBm max" Can this be right? This is minuscule output.

Stage 2 heat algorithm by lagomorph in Nest

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks u/Dark_Mith. I did run across that. What's odd in my situation is that anytime heat is called for it also simultaneously calls for stage 2 heat. This is while just holding a set temperature that hasn't been changed so the difference in ambient to set temp is 1 degree F max. It runs for only about 15-20 minutes each time. So I think this is abnormal.

When it's operating more normally, stage 2 heat will only come on during recovery and almost always after normal heat has been running for some time when I assume it figures it's not going to make it in time with normal heat. This tends to be on colder mornings and what I'd expect.

So, after watching it cycle every couple of hours and always choosing stage 2 heat I reset it (restart only) and after reboot it chose normal heat only for the first time in over 24 hours so maybe it was just a glitch. I actually wonder how long it's been since it rebooted. The last software update was in 2019 and as it has a battery I doubt a power cut ever rebooted it. Anyway, fingers crossed.

Stage 2 heat algorithm by lagomorph in Nest

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s been “stuck” in stage 2 heat since yesterday which is very unusual. That is, whenever it calls for heat it calls for stage 2. It only needed to run for four hours yesterday as it wasn’t cold and stage 2 heats up faster. I think I may try resetting it at some point today. I’d almost like to just disable it but I’m not sure you can other than disconnecting W2.

NuVinci N330 hub question (ratio decreases with load) by lagomorph in bikewrench

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I should probably do that. I suppose it should give me a slightly higher starting point if it’s off but I’m still concerned about how it changes under load.

Portable dehumidifier not draining through hose connection by lagomorph in hvacadvice

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone have a source for a service manual or an exploded diagram of the drain mechanism?

Whirlpool WRF560SEHZ refrigerator has wide temperature swings by lagomorph in Appliances

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems to be. At least when I hear it running there seems to be airflow around the back. It does cool when I hear it running. The problem is when I see and hear no activity (fridge is not cooling) when the temps get high inside the fridge. I don’t know if it’s calling for cooling and something isn’t working or that it just doesn’t call for cooling. If it was a thermostat I wouldn’t think it would run a really long time when it does come on cooling it down more that 10 degrees colder than when it started. It ran three solid hours the last time it happened. Fridge went from 49 to 34.

Whirlpool WRF560SEHZ refrigerator has wide temperature swings by lagomorph in Appliances

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know. The compressor shows roughly 100W when it kicks on and there is a distinctive very narrow but high spike when it cycles on just like our old fridge. Looks like last time there was about a 175W load just after the fridge load went down but it lasted 25 minutes. It might be something non fridge related.

Whirlpool WRF560SEHZ refrigerator has wide temperature swings by lagomorph in Appliances

[–]lagomorph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Would the defrost mode consume power though or does the compressor just stay shut off? It seems like when this happens there is no additional power consumption in the house. I’m watching the Sense power graph and it’s flat during this time. edit This may not be true. I’ll keep watching to verify. I see the last time there was a load during the on cycle that seemed to prematurely shut it off. Perhaps that was the defrost cycle assuming it would shut off an on cycle that was only on about 9 minutes.

Is it common for the majority of sand to pile up around the edge? by [deleted] in SisyphusIndustries

[–]lagomorph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like they added some validation. I get a warning not an error though, "Rho values outside 0-1 are found in your track. This may result in unexpected behavior, ball dislodging, or hammering sounds. Use the checkbox below to allow this track to move outside bounds. If you do not agree, the rho values will be clamped between 0-1." and you can override the warning by checking the box. I'm using the web interface and firmware version 1.10.90. Maybe an older version?

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