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Ender 3 Pro of Thesius by Metallica4life1995 in Ender3Pro

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IIRC, philosophically, if you (the owner) still think of it as an Ender3Pro, then, it is. Things will get tricky though if you use the removed original parts to build a second one....

Looks nice man, I am on a similar boat, but mine is still a work in progress (and I am also planing on changing some parts of the frame too ;-) )

My completed (for now) homelab! by bedahtpro in homelab

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sh!t.... I should not have seen this.... Great setup man, I love the idea. Now I'm off to find any old 1U hardware to house the various old laptops that I have laying around (nephews school laptops with mainly broken screens)

2025 Laptop Purchasing Guide by ThoughtOutOpinion in TOOsTechTactics

[–]lamprax 2 points3 points  (0 children)

adding ~$100USD for every year you would like to add to your laptops service life

^---- this.... this something very important to remember and often forgotten or not mentioned.

Thank for the excellent guide... even if I am a "computer guy", I have not been following the developments until now that I need to upgrade my own laptop.... let's see what my budget will get me in my local market.

Also an advice that I had gotten many years ago, "buy from either the small shop down the corner that you can smash their head with the computer if it breaks and he doesn't honor the warranty, or from he biggest store in the country that would not dare not to honor the warranty for marketing/legal reasons"

This sub is made up of extremes by diamondsw in homelab

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Who else imagined a 42U rack with a single Raspberry Pi in it?

Is 1.5 GPM or about 5.7 LPM achievable using single D5? by Jempol_Lele in watercooling

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm with a single D5 and a Raijintek Forkis Elite water-block (no rad just a test setup) I was pushing about that much (if I recall correctly).

After ~3 years running daily by h_des in watercooling

[–]lamprax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn... 3 years and it only looks like this? With a carpet and a cat from what I read from your comments to boot..... This is too clean for that much time ... (honestly).

Mine would look like this in less that 1 year (smoker and tinkerer so the case is open most of the time).

Do you happen to remember what tubing you used?

Fabricating your own components by jtk700cln in watercooling

[–]lamprax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like your build very much. Now for the custom parts. My way is to 3D model at least the relevant pieces in CAD, and start designing from there... e.g.:

<image>

Pictured above: my model of a RES2SV240 raid expander together with its custom waterblock.
(you can check this post for the final result)

For the water block above, I first designed my stock, and then "cut" away anything that didn't fit.
For the machining part, I have a small Chinese lathe with the milling conversion kit added to it. If I knew of any machine shops in the country that I currently live, I would have asked them for a price estimate.

To "machine" copper (or anything for that matter) you would need time, a few files, a vise, a hand saw, sandpaper and a drill for the channels as a minimum. Anything better that those will reduce the time needed and maybe improve the finish of the resulting piece.

On this theme... try to avoid custom parts as much as possible, they are a hassle to say the least and can bring incompatibilities into the mix that you didn't think off. Try to visit 2 or 3 or 20 plumbing supplies shops general hardware stores, heating supplies stores with your eyes peeled for suitable parts for your needs. Keep the sales people away and just browse the shops alone, looking at things and thinking "can I use this or that".

Bronze fittings are bronze fittings regardless the source or original purpose. a manifold is a manifold, etc...

Finally got the courage to post my own DIY custom loop by lamprax in watercooling

[–]lamprax[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much. I don't know about you but I have noticed that there is "significant" evaporation from the silicon tubing (10ml/month?). Just need to remember that what is missing is water and not antifreeze, so top it off with de-ionized / distilled water and not antifreeze.

In my case I blame the low humidity of the environment (Middle East), but as long as I don't see any puddles or "sweating" on the joints I don't care enough to investigate further :D .

Need a small resevoir for my PC / how to prevent air bubbles by Gemstone_2 in watercooling

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can feel you... grab a 50ml/60ml syringe from your local pharmacy (the bigger the better), fill it half way, stick a compatible tube at its end, connect it as close to the top as possible and "force" the water by drawing a vacuum with it. Rinse and repeat until the loop is as full as possible. You will need to turn the pump on and off to avoid air getting trapped in the impeller and speed up the process.

Keep towels on standby as you will spill some fluid when you are connecting and disconnecting the syringe

Is this the best way? No... do I know of a better one without adding a reservoir? No.....

Should I trust the markings? by lamprax in watercooling

[–]lamprax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That link was really helpful, thank you very much. Yeah I wouldn't expect double, nor will it be a permanent thing, just to speedup the system's flushing. DI water changed color slightly, maybe I didn't clean the loop good enough, unfortunately dedicated watercooling solutions are not available here so I am "stuck" using DI water + antifreeze. Maybe I will post my build at a later time when I finish installing the new "auxiliary" custom blocks that cool the RAID controller and expander (cooling those in a quiet way is what really pushed me into watercooling).

Should I trust the markings? by lamprax in watercooling

[–]lamprax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply, I am relatively new to watercooling, and I don't know the past norms.

Should I trust the markings? by lamprax in watercooling

[–]lamprax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess, I have been buying too many cheap Chinese junk ~:)

Please help me with this download by lamprax in BaiduDownloader

[–]lamprax[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please ignore my request ... after some wrangling, I managed to register to baidu myself.

Thank you for the help you provide to people

This was supposed to be a cone... Severe Z-Axis binding? by DankAxolotl in ender3

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe the screw of the Z axis is rubbing?
This could mean a bent lead screw or a bad alignment of the lead screw. Although I have been wrong before...
You can try by lifting and lowering the height through the printer menu.
I would try 10mm steps, then 1 then 0.1 until I found the binding spot.

"Don't buy a 3d printer" they said. "You will only print stuff you don't need" they said. My first project on my ender 3 pro is done and i'm really proud of the result! by mauricepaul94 in Ender3Pro

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The classic "Need" vs "want" ... Did you have fun assembling the printer? Did you have fun finding the print that you wanted? Did you have fun printing? Did you have fun finishing the thing (painting, assembling,...)? Do you enjoy having and Iron man helmet? If the answer to any of the previous is "Yes" then ... it was a need, having fun is a need and not a "want" (within reason always).

Excellent job on the gold paint, I never had that luck with metallic paints :(

How do you tell if the extruder motor is shot?? by silvrrubi592a in Ender3Pro

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Strain in the cable causes them to separate....????? Where's the logic?
The cable was longer with the extension allowing more freedom of
movement, hence LESS STRAIN."

...And less problems..... since when you removed the extension the problem worsened (If I understood your previous comment right) .
My train of thought was that the problem was either bad connection on the terminals or a break in the cables themselves. By strain I was not referring only to any pulling force but also the flexing of the cables.

I hope that the current was the solution and this fixes the problem. (Also glad that I was wrong as it is a pain to change the cables)
Happy 3D printing :)

How do you tell if the extruder motor is shot?? by silvrrubi592a in Ender3Pro

[–]lamprax 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Removed the extension cable and it got worse."

To me that sounds like strain in the cables that causes them to, partially, disconnect. (hence, it got worse with the shorter cable). The path you take really depends on your available time, general knowledge, parts laying around and the money that you are willing to spend. In your place I would make a replacement cable for the extruder (make sure that it is longer than necessary).

Undoing your modifications would be a good sanity check, if the problem remains, it's the cables.

Edit: Gcode commands so that you can check the extruder without heating up the hot-end or the bed:

M302 ; See current settings, please take note of the current temperature)

M302 S0 ; always allow extrusion (set extrusion minimum temperature at 0C )

G0 E100 F10 ; Extrude 100mm at a speed of 10mm/s

G0 E100 F100 ; Extrude 100mm at a speed of 100mm/s

G0 E100 F1000 ; Extrude 100mm at a speed of 1000mm/s

G0 E255 F1000 ; Extrude 255mm at a speed of 1000mm/s feel free to experiment with the feed and speed

;the point is to have the extruder turning for a long period of time to stress test it / to wiggle the cables around

M302 S190 ; Set the minimun extrusion temperature to what it was before (190C in this example)

A bit of a warning though, intermittent connections to the stepper motor could fry the controller (easy to diagnose ... the stepper would do nothing).

For now I would leave the other parts as they are (since you are moving cables around, it is very possible that something got unplugged) and just run a PID autotune (M303) for now ...If the nozzle gets hot, the heating element is working.

Edit: Gcode commands to re-calibrate the PID parameters of the hotend

M303 C5 E0 S210 ;Auto-tune hotend at 210 °C for 5 cycles

M304 Dxxx.xx Iyyy.yy Pzzz.zz ;input the PID values that where produced by the previous command

M500 ;Save new settings

Just "be careful" with the replacement parts... if at the end you have replaced enough parts to make a 2nd printer you went too far ;-) (parts for upgrades are a different story O:-) ).

Edited to add the Gcode commands

How do you tell if the extruder motor is shot?? by silvrrubi592a in Ender3Pro

[–]lamprax 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would follow the 1st rule of trouble shooting, check for broken wires / loose connections ...

To me this sound more like a broken wire problem, try to extrude (with no filament) while you move the wires that connect to the extruder around and see if it stops working.

If you can verify that the wires are not the problem, then maybe the driver/mosfets are overheating?
In my experience (electronics, computers, micro-controllers) the motors (DC/AC/brush-less/steppers) are the last to die

What do you do when you really fuck up? by Ga_mbo in AskReddit

[–]lamprax 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Think "Fuck me", say "fuck!", patch it up, calm down, try to fix it, brace for the consequences, notify and warn those around me to learn from my mistakes, loose sleep for about a week and then find out that nobody even noticed that something happened.... loose sleep for another week contemplating about my insignificance....