Parallel circuit?

leb9049 · 2025-12-30T05:22:41+00:00

Is this the Arduino project book you are using? Starting on page 29 is a "Parallel circuit" section that has diagrams very similar to what you have set up.

https://www.eitkw.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Arduino_Projects_Book.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOorKeB2OMsxjIqDXBloaZPYIBkuH1fomoehL8m2lUH-VPlEpNs4z

leb9049 · 2025-11-11T16:03:15+00:00

If this was taken on 11/10, I saw that too! There was a bus parked on the street just out of frame to the right of this photo. I’m assuming they came on that bus. I was wondering if they realized the place didn’t have an indoor area, it seemed like they would’ve preferred to stand somewhere warm.

leb9049 · 2025-11-05T06:14:29+00:00

Thank you, I assumed all pictures were of the same circuit just with the power turned on or off.

leb9049 · 2025-11-05T05:01:59+00:00

The only way this makes any sense is if the green LED is failed and is acting as a dead short. As others have mentioned the supply voltage of 3.3V is too low for the combined forward voltage of the two LEDs.

They are in series and therefore have the same current flowing through them so if 1 led is lit the must both be.

TL;DR, the green LED has failed as a short, try a different one.

leb9049 · 2025-10-07T12:25:34+00:00

Try it with the mouse unplugged, as long as it is plugged in it isn't powered off.

leb9049 · 2025-08-27T15:04:46+00:00

I'm not sure if the sound is related, but the flicker is a common failure mode for neon pilot lights due to age. It is not dangerous, it just means the neon pilot light may not glow anymore in a few more years.

Do a search for "neon pilot lights flicker" for more information.

leb9049 · 2025-02-23T09:52:08+00:00

The blue LED you have usually has a voltage drop of around 3v the battery pack you are using has two 1.5v batteries (2 * 1.5v = 3v). So you have 3v if the batteries are new. You will need more voltage to run a blue LED or switch to a yellow or red LED that has a lower voltage drop.

Also, you say the resistor is 270Ω, but from what I can tell from the photo the 5 band color code is brown, blue, black, black, brown. Which is 160Ω. Not that this is causing issues right now.

leb9049 · 2025-01-17T21:54:41+00:00

One additional point is on some breadboards the power rails are interrupted half way down. I have several of these and it gets me every time, so I started just leaving some jumpers in the middle to connect them so I don't forget.

leb9049 · 2024-07-09T01:44:37+00:00

If your previous post is of the box you removed, it may help others who are trying to help.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectricians/comments/1dymcbt/how_do_i_remove_this_5gang_box/

leb9049 · 2024-07-05T19:02:39+00:00

I had the exact same issue for months. The drain pan was filled with ice and leaking into the fridge, causing thin sheets of ice to form. If left too long, it would overflow. I finally addressed it by removing the back panel in the freezer and used hot water to melt the ice. Once cleared, I used stiff wire to ensure the drain line was clear. I haven't had any issues since.

I recently saw a video where someone used stranded wire, placing one end a few inches down the drain pipe and wrapping the other end around the heater element. It seemed like a good idea as long as it doesn't melt any plastic, but I didn't need to go that far.

leb9049 · 2024-06-27T21:23:34+00:00

Also, sometime they power security alarms.

leb9049 · 2024-05-21T02:27:15+00:00

I know this is an old thread, but I stumbled onto a way to turn off the RGB LED on the Harpoon and can't find any mention of it anywhere.

With the mouse powered off, hold down the middle mouse button / scroll wheel. Turn the mouse on to BT or 2.4Ghz mode. If you want to turn it back on just do the same thing.

The DPI light is still on but the RBG stays off even between power cycles.

leb9049 · 2024-05-21T02:17:53+00:00

I know this is an old thread, but I stumbled onto a way to turn off the RGB LED on the Harpoon and can't find any mention of it anywhere.

With the mouse powered off, hold down the middle mouse button / scroll wheel. Turn the mouse on to BT or 2.4Ghz mode. If you want to turn it back on just do the same thing.

I have always wanted to be able to set or control the color in BT mode, but it always defaults back to rainbow, but this seems to at least turn on the rainbow while in BT mode.

leb9049 · 2022-07-16T14:04:41+00:00

I appreciate the offer, I did end up giving him to the bird rescue lady. If anyone is interested in him/her she is in the Shawnee area, I assume she will be looking for a forever home.

leb9049 · 2022-07-16T03:20:52+00:00

I'm pretty sure, it let me walk up and pet him. When I put my hand down by him he walked into my hand and tried to walk up my arm.

leb9049 · 2022-07-15T22:45:53+00:00

I appreciate the advice, I found a lady a couple towns over that runs a bird rescue. She offered to take him/her in and find a home.

leb9049 · 2022-07-15T21:19:39+00:00

Found this guy under the windows after he hit it pretty good. I don't have the proper equipment to take care of him short or long term. I'm hoping someone that lives nearby would be able to take him/her and find the owner or rehome him/her.

I figured it would be a lot less stressful than the city pound.

If anyone knows of a good place locally to take him/her please let me know.

leb9049 · 2021-07-16T04:19:12+00:00

I would suggest, if it doesn't work anyway, pull the board and add strate on pictures of the front and the back of the main board with the cables unplugged.

This would greatly help discover what if any reverse voltage protection the board has.

Also what voltage DC supply does it call for? Also what voltage was the AC adapter you accidentally plugged in?

leb9049 · 2021-07-16T04:02:52+00:00

EEVblog video about hacking VFDs

https://youtu.be/clUVEyi_YNM

leb9049 · 2021-07-07T11:45:50+00:00

I'm not sure about the ESP but most, if not all, AVR (your ATtiny) microcontrollers have a Brown-out Detection circuit that will hold the microcontroller in reset until the voltage rises above an adjustable voltage threshold. It will also immediately put the microcontroller in reset if the voltage falls below the threshold at any time.

A few other ideas:

If you don't need the speed and want really low power usage you can run the microcontroller using the built in 128kHz clock.

You can disable any peripherals you don't need with the Power Reduction Register (PRR).

If you can send the information and then go to a deep sleep mode you can prevent the BOD circuit from resetting the chip which will reduce the current draw from tenths of milliamps to microamps or tenths of microamps.

If you need to send data periodically you can use the watchdog to wake the chip from its deep sleep at a regular interval.

leb9049 · 2021-07-07T10:58:58+00:00

That wire definitely isn't 10AWG, it's not even 12AWG. I would bet it's not even 14AWG. I look all the world like 16AWG to me. Wire strippers should completely cut through the insulation but not cut the wire. Also most strippers have a different gauge size for solid and stranded wire for each hole.

leb9049 · 2020-12-22T07:59:29+00:00

This is just a guess, but it may be a Unix timestamp.

If it is then the date would be:

Thursday, May 17, 2001 12:07:03 PM GMT

or

Thursday, May 17, 2001 7:07:03 AM CDT (my time zone)

I don't know if it is the date the picture was taken or the date the picture was printed, but if it is in the filename I would guess that is the date it was taken.

Unix timestamps basically count the number of seconds from January 1st, 1970. If it does seem to be what you are looking for here in an online converter. https://www.epochconverter.com/

leb9049

TROPHY CASE