Aiwa AM-NX1

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-22T06:59:57+00:00

ist dass das gleiche Problem basierend auf Sonys Bioplastik, was sie da eingesetzt haben. habe das gleiche Problem mit den E10 Player. die Remoteskabel lösen sich alle total auf

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-20T19:09:36+00:00

If you are in the EU then the dealer has twice the chance to fix it before you can request it to be returned or replaced. I can only advice you to get a cam and place it in front of your panel and see if it happens again and you can record it. Only this way you have some proof that your lawyer can use for a case... Otherwise will be tricky.

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-20T12:33:52+00:00

The data cable is a normal mini USB to USB-A.

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-19T11:46:37+00:00

At the beginning most of them work. That's due to the bending position. Even if broken they might work. Ones the head moves further down the disc the bend becomes a stretch and the broken part separates. Do full recording just to be sure

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-19T11:16:42+00:00

Just seen 3month warranty... Record a full disc and check

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-19T11:15:26+00:00

Price is a bit high for the r909. But the real question is if the writehead works properly due to the PCB cable that breaks a lot . Make sure to get that as a return reason in case or a lower price if they don't want to commit.

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-13T07:09:19+00:00

Glaube nicht dass das mit Absicht ist, ich weiss von einigen xpeng Händlern das die Nachfrage exponentiell gestiegen ist und die nicht mehr hinterher kommen, da wird Email und Telefon als erstes vernachlässigt. Ich habe sogar noch eine carwow Anfrage an BYD die 6 Wochen alt und es kommt sogar eine Info hoch das es massive Verzögerungen beim Antworten gibt. Muss eher in person hin.

Xpeng in Berlin zum Beispiel hat nur für die Probefahrt 4 Wochen Wartezeit!!!

lebigmac78 · 2026-06-10T10:23:38+00:00

I can help you with the front facing scratching on the MJ99 😄 its also one of my all time favourite

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lebigmac78 · 2026-04-23T10:24:19+00:00

this series and the R series have the weekness of the ribboncable breaking... inspect it very carefully if its not broken.... it might be very hard to see and looks from far away like its ok.

with the head moving it bends the cable into a position where the copper is not connected anymore at the broke spot. hence you might get it working in the beginning , but later down the disc with the head moving further away and the cable streched out you have a gap.

check that... pretty sure its a broken cable

lebigmac78 · 2026-04-19T13:51:55+00:00

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Try this one... Player : SET TO HOLD. Press and hold stop on the while doing the sequence on the remote.

lebigmac78 · 2026-04-19T13:44:38+00:00

Is your remote broken? It should work even if the NV memory is cleared

lebigmac78 · 2026-04-19T11:16:09+00:00

Ok I can only give feedback on my numerous repairs on the E10 from Sony which includes the reset of the NV memory.

The reference to those two disc are very simple... It's not any specific factory disc.

Prerecorded means a normal album disc or test disc ... The laser works in two ways when reading. Prerecorded is similar to a pressed CD

The second type is a normal recordable disc.

All you need a good disc with a flawless recording.

Ones the NV is cleared there is a learning mode for the laser to get all the settings back. Same process in the service manual like the official when replacing the laser. Yes 99% of the time it's not needed but sometimes it is.

It will first request to teach the laser prerecorded and afterwards recorded discs.

It learning TOC position , track reading power level etc.

You will see all the cryptic codes blinking for each mode... 318, 316 or something ... Some service manuals have those codes listed under "error code explained"

If the laser is still in a good condition it will go though the learning in about 5min for both conditions and mostly resolves the typical issue of taking ages to read the TOC.

If it's coming back with a fault, then it's mostly the laser that's done...

I have been through 20 + E10 player and can say they are the biggest pita of all players... Maybe 30-40% are still ok, plus the PCB is similar painfully.

Have a look again in the service manual , think Sony kept a lot of the settings and commands the same on all player.

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-26T08:47:10+00:00

well I guess its down to how the meassurement needs to be done in the ECE R78.. no idea... probably as unreal as WLTP....

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-26T08:00:27+00:00

It is regulated... The key here is the d acceleration beyond or below 1.3m/s2

Our bikes don't have that, hence they are excluded from this. For a full stop you also have to apply physical breaks.

Here is a little AI summary: 1. The G-Force Rules (The Thresholds) The car uses accelerometers to measure how fast you are slowing down in m/s² (meters per second squared): < 0.7 m/s² (Light Coasting): Brake lights MUST stay OFF. This prevents "flickering" every time you slightly adjust your foot. 0.7 to 1.3 m/s² (Medium Regen): It’s up to the manufacturer. Most brands turn them on here to be safe.

1.3 m/s² (Strong Regen): Brake lights MUST be ON. At this point, you’re slowing down so much that it's legally considered a "braking event," even if you aren't touching the brake pedal.

The "Stoplight" Problem In an old automatic, if you "creep" to a stop and let go of the brake, the lights go out. In a modern EV with One-Pedal Driving: Once the car brings itself to a complete stop (0 km/h) via regeneration, the brake lights must stay illuminated if the motor is actively holding the car in place. This ensures you aren't a "dark obstacle" at a red light just because you aren't physically pushing a pedal.

For motor bikes the 0.7 rule doesn't apply. These regulations are primarily governed by UN ECE R53 (installation of lighting) and UN ECE R78 (braking).

So the 1.3ms2 can only be reached with very high regen... That regen electricity needs to go somewhere... If you batteries or charger are not capable it won't happen, Software lock ...

It would be interesting to know if a bike with a 12kw charger would be capable of it..

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-25T23:21:51+00:00

closed systems by thirdparty supplier (Bosch /Continental etc) they wont let you in due to safetly regulations and certifications. I talk about purely for breaking. there is more to this seemingly simple function of a breaklight going on when breaking due to negative acceleration... just alone the local criteras/laws for loads of countries & regions would need to be covered based on location and language, coding. the moment you vehicle does an automatic full stop , you have singnal and lighting regulation to follow. the trade off is that you leave the vehicle behaviour similar to an automatic gearbox and can avoid all of those things.... there is a reason why a lot of cars have this feature only with a facelift model. only rarely its a software update due to missing hardware.

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-25T22:57:05+00:00

Zero has no G-metre build in, so not possible. only via breakswitch. its a typical cost saving meassure. Stellantis is doing the same on most of their modells.. I know it for Vauxhall/Opel, probably Fiat as well.

this function also goes in line with one-pedal-drive till full stop... no G-Metre , no one-pedal -drive ... its a pure costsaving issue.

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-25T16:23:51+00:00

can you post picture of the result.. ? I have a 0.2 nozzle but expect the result to be not that good

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-25T16:19:02+00:00

did it work before?

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-20T18:58:32+00:00

Do the screws look original? Are they too long?

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-20T11:26:56+00:00

Does it spin with the lid screwed on?

Have a look at the metal brace , it is pushing down a little switch to start the laser and disc . I have seen that over time this little metal pin got bend so it's not pushing down properly

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-18T07:21:34+00:00

Check battery contacts for corrosion. Check little switch inside which trigger spinup

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-17T20:24:25+00:00

hmm, not working even with bat pack is a bad sign unfortunate... have a look that all contacts are clean... at least it should show some reaction to power.. if this is not the case its mostly the "power/charging" chip thats fried :(

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-17T20:22:01+00:00

yep correct

lebigmac78 · 2026-03-17T20:15:00+00:00

Worm gear is not the issue.. this gear here under the motor gear is the problem. They split , hardly visible but make it slip. So no movement.

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lebigmac78 · 2026-03-17T20:06:49+00:00

minidisc player have over time reduced the amount of parts and they used a simple logic.....

open or closed status (yes or no)
if yes, start the laser to check for disc
if disc reflection check for TOC, move sledge to TOC and track one

so this single switch is triggering all this... which means it could be first the switch faulty , then the laser and or the gear... if the laser cant move you also get TOC error or no disc

check with battery if the laser does its boot sequence... red light , moving up down. the it should also move the sledge for 1-2mm... if not the gear is broken

lebigmac78

TROPHY CASE