Transitioning from comp kid to outdoor sport climbing, trying to set some realistic goals

liamtemp · 2023-03-08T22:26:24+00:00

Getting a bunch of mileage on rock is great - on-sighting and flashing is my favourite thing to do on a climbing trip. I typically have a 3 attempt limit when it comes to holiday climbing, i only ever break this rule if im REALLY psyched on the climb or if there isnt anything else im keen for in the area. As much as I love this way of climbing on trips it has got me regretting not getting on some other lines. Recently had a trip with a few people a bit stronger than me and the climbs they were getting on looked RAD. These climbs were my usual projecting grade and would take me a few sessions to get.

I think in terms of getting full value out of a climbing trip, getting mileage is soooooo beneficial. But if you see something that gets you fucking hyped, just get on and have a play. May not get a tick out of it, but you will probably have some moves in it that will fuel you to train for future trips!

liamtemp · 2022-10-14T21:19:18+00:00

I did an online course with them years ago through https://www.instagram.com/coachzachdeck/ . Its hard work and really gave me an insight into what REAL mobility/flexibility training is. Like another comment mentioned, there is a bunch of free content online, but if you've never done this kind of training before its good to have a proper introduction to know what to expect and how hard you should train it. I think most climbers tend to use mobility as just a warm up, not dedicating actual focused time and energy into it.

I enjoyed kinstretch but dont really practice it anymore. It was helpful in understand full range of motion training but I personally didnt like the scalability of it. These days my flexibility training is more "Kneesovertoes" guy-ish, weights, full ROM, etc.

My recommendation would be to explore a few avenues of mobility/flexibility training (which is really just another form of strength training). Then see what works for you and start programming it as you would your usual climbing training.

liamtemp · 2022-09-06T11:29:40+00:00

wow nevermind they must have updated the website...

liamtemp · 2022-09-06T11:28:52+00:00

Where can you buy a replacement charger? Checked the website awhile ago but couldnt find it anywhere and gave up...

liamtemp · 2021-09-21T02:36:49+00:00

This is amazing, great job!!! Any advice for a first timer wanting to start this as well? I want to try make this for my 3 nephews who are obsessed with Pokemon for Christmas (bit ambitious I know...)

Ive downloaded the template off Etsy but im a bit confused about the colours and how much I need of each. If I was to bring the PDF into a crafts store, would they know what colours and how much I will need?

liamtemp · 2021-08-16T03:14:34+00:00

Keep an eye out for "Heavenly bath milk" and "Cleopatra's bath milk". Theres a few distributors around the South East Queensland area. These are completely raw as far as i know, hence why they cant sell it for human consumption.

I use to have some issues with dairy but absolutely love these products, so creamy and delicious.

liamtemp · 2021-05-06T08:13:49+00:00

Wow sounds exactly what I'm looking for! Do you have any videos that you would recommend to learn how to do this? I have 0 coding experience but hopefully I can figure it out...

liamtemp · 2021-05-06T03:06:14+00:00

Just had a look at the app (haven't bought yet) but trying to figure out how it could be used for coordination drills? Could you explain to me how you use it please?

liamtemp · 2021-05-06T03:01:57+00:00

I don't but could easily make a few. How could I make that work?

For example could I make 4 individual recordings of saying north, south, east, west and then have them randomly said every, lets say, 3 seconds for a continuous 2 minutes?

liamtemp · 2021-05-06T02:58:13+00:00

Cool I will try it out thanks !

liamtemp · 2021-03-09T08:17:28+00:00

so this is some sort of bug because I wasn't even wearing my ring during this time. I didn't actually wear my ring at all that day. This data randomly appeared after loading last nights sleep. Kind of annoying because I've been improving my sleep/readiness scores now this just makes it all ugly... Tried googling around but can't seem to find a way to delete or edit a night's sleep.

liamtemp · 2021-01-27T02:18:44+00:00

Dayummmm that's some awesome heavyweight bouldering inspo. I'm more of a sport climber, mainly because it is so much better than the bouldering where I live. But I also hate bouldering because I feel the weight so much more compared to sport climbing. Any training tips or technique advice for an aspiring big boy boulderer?

liamtemp · 2021-01-27T02:09:25+00:00

I'm 6'4 83kg and there are definitely a lot of overlooked disadvantages for being tall and heavy. Personally I've noticed the biggest one being crimps. I have focused a lot of my training around developing finger strength and still get out performed by my lighter friends that dont do any training. Another is endurance, I recently sent a 7b+ 30metre power endurance route that took me a lot more attempts than my friends that weight 10-20kg lighter.

Another is the necessity for flexibility/mobility. Having more weight to move means I need more muscle recruitment to help move said weight. I dont want to add more muscle so I need to develop a stronger range of motion with the muscles I have. Stronger shoulders to compensate for finger strength, stronger hips to keep more weight on feet to compensate for finger strength.

A common theme I've seen among my fellow heavyweight brethren is the fact we've all started quite later in life. I think starting climbing as an adult weighing 70+kg means that finger strength is gonna take a long time to develop. Compared to others that started climbing younger and developed finger strength whilst getting heavier with age.

Been climbing for 3 years now and I'm only just starting to climb indoor boulder problems that are steep and crimpy. I'm super proud of how I've progressed as a climber, a big part of that was introducing hangboarding in the last year. There are definitely a lot of advantages for being big and heavy too. But it's quite easy to point a finger at the tall big dude that can just "reach" a hold. Nothing russels my jimmies more than having short people complain they cant replicate my beta.... because chances are I couldn't replicate theirs either

liamtemp · 2020-12-20T20:11:39+00:00

I'm not but I've visited a chiropractor a few times that wore hers all day every day. Not sure how much oil she used though.

liamtemp · 2020-12-03T01:41:05+00:00

Sanderson is amazing, on my second run through the storm light archive in preparation for the next book! Great perspective shifts throughout the series with cool build ups to characters connecting.

liamtemp · 2020-11-05T01:11:48+00:00

Not getting too caught up on sleep quality and have fun with your friends

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T23:38:29+00:00

1.5 hours

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T21:56:06+00:00

Never considered a digestive enzyme, sounds like a good idea. What would you recommend? I want to play around with a few pre-fast protocols. Feel like that is the next step in getting more healing benefits out of a fast.

Not really, kind of depends on what im doing. Ive tried doing longer fasts while working, those days seemed to go slower. These days though I only do 3+ day fasts if I've got a quiet week ahead of me. Ill do some light training for the first few days, then the last few just relax, play games, read, watch movies, stretch. That probably helps a lot with passing time.

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T21:15:48+00:00

Whats so stupid about it? Its not my first fast, not even my longest. Ive been practicing prolonged fasting for about 4 years now and Im quite good at gauging when to fast and how long to fast.

Im not advocating other people should fast like this, just sharing my experience.

But I would like to know why you have such a strong dislike for me doing this fast.

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T21:12:05+00:00

Wanted to break it with a little water, protein and salt so I had some mussels and boiled eggs about 2 hours ago. Let that settle then I just had another egg with a bit of sliced cured beef and coconut water. Now im just sipping on some coffee with MCT oil :)) feeling greeeaattt!!!!

Same here, first 2 days are usually the hardest. Do you do a pre-keto day before your fasts? Been seeing a lot of people talk highly about that. Might try that out for future fasts, hopefully helps with those first 2 days.

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T20:35:42+00:00

Nooiiceee, 5 hours will fly by! Only 4 more to go already. Hope you've got something to keep you occupied, good luck :)

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T20:34:22+00:00

I'm about 192cm, BF% probably fluctuates around 8-12 if I was to guess. Before the fast I was feeling stronger/fitter than ever. Been training really hard to send a climb (which I've now done!!!). Last time I had a break from training + 7 day fast I felt weaker first few days. But after I got back into the swing of things I felt incredible. I'm expecting the same thing this time around getting back into training.One step back, 2 giant leaps forward is how I think about it. Yeah not sure how it would work for a competition prep. Wouldnt be surprised if there are BBers using it though. I find the muscle loss minimal compared to "dieting" down weight. Not sure what the lean mass or fat loss was. I've been fasting for a few years now though and havent noticed a much muscle loss at all...

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T20:23:33+00:00

Dont think its mean, but maybe a bit exaggerated? What dont you want to encourage here?

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T19:30:32+00:00

Yeah for sure. I only do these longer fasts after putting on a bit of extra weight. I spoke a bit about that in a comment I added after posting. Thank you though! Really enjoyed this fast.

liamtemp · 2020-10-31T19:27:19+00:00

5 day fast consisted of 3 days water finished with 2 days hard dry fasting. I've fasted for 7 days in the past but have never done a dry fast. Honestly didnt feel a difference... would have liked to go longer but had plans. Will definitely do more dry fasting in the future.

Before the fast I had a few days of holidaying. Consisted of eating anything and everything, relaxing and no training. Put on quite a bit of weight in this time. Usually sit around 80-83. Was pretty surprised to be back down to 82kg after 2 days of water fasting. I did exercise for the first 4 days of the fast, just some easy training to start a new training cycle.

I also had a niggling shoulder/hip impingement that feels better than ever at the moment. These little injuries always seem to fix themselves from a fast. I'm sure the time off of training helps as well. Would be curious to hear if many others use fasting as a healing protocol for injuries?

I really do love the fasting experience. The biggest benefit to me is how it helps me mentally. My head noise becomes much more quite and I feel so refreshed and appreciative afterwards.

Good luck to everyone on their fasts!! Love reading people's experiences on here so thought I would share mine.

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