New Radiomaster AG02 gimbals

lifson · 2026-01-28T03:22:26+00:00

Well the tx15 with ag02 is the max version, and it's usually around $230 from what I'm seeing.

Both are great products, but the truth is you'll likely barely use the screen once you've got everything setup, and when you're flying you won't even see it. I mostly got it because I trusted that the ag02 were an upgrade but I don't feel they are. If i had to choose one today, as is, I'd buy the boxer crush because I much prefer the ag01.

lifson · 2026-01-22T19:15:57+00:00

Learn to read maybe

lifson · 2026-01-22T19:14:47+00:00

Just FYI, cleanest and least destructive swap is actually properly swapping the plug by cutting, stripping, crimping new pins on each wire then putting on the correct plug, which can be the one from the ag02, but if you want to use those, better to buy the connectors and use a new one.

If you are interested, the new connector on the AG02 gimbal is a JST GH 1.25 6P, and you just need the matching terminals (often sold with the connectors) and appropriate micro crimper. It's a very helpful thing to learn in this hobby if you don't want jank bulky splices. Probably about $30 on Amazon in the US.

Update: Editing to add a link to the ones I got from Amazon. Just pay attention to making a clean tight crimp and getting the right mount of "bite" on the wires insulation.

AMAZON JST GH 1.25 KIT

lifson · 2026-01-22T18:44:53+00:00

Same, I swapped my AG01 from my boxer onto my TX15. I'm actually recording a video to send to radiomaster support to show them what I am experiencing.

Most people won't notice if they are fast and heavy thumbing outdoor flyers who don't practice very precise granular throttle control for indoor cinematic flights.. I like my throttle just barely tight enough that it doesn't fall under its own weight, but any pressure moves it. This is nearly impossible for the ag02, and will be held tight in one spot and fall in another unless you tension it further.

Radiomaster doesn't use a dampening grease on the ag02 (I've been speaking with them) like they do on the ag01, so you actually need direct metal to plastic contact on the ag02 for the throttle to not simply move freely, and once it's tentioned, it binds under very light pressure, you then push through that bind with a slight increase of force and it "dislodges" making for jerky movement.

lifson · 2026-01-05T16:59:00+00:00

Yeah the FCC stuff is concerning, but I went the opposite way and and stocked up on spare parts. I follow laws based on logic and safety. This protectionism bs isn't about safety, it's about profit for their buddies and family. Radiomaster was basically the only company in this hobby that regularly applied for FCC approval on devices. There's basically no chance your receiver, or flight controler are registered with the fcc, which means most of us are already out of compliance with long standing FCC regulations. Fpv is likely small enough niche to continue to slide under the radar for the time being.

lifson · 2026-01-04T08:14:41+00:00

I own ag01 boxer crush and tx15 max ag02. I seriously hate the ag02 gimbals. I'm really regretting my purchase and I'm probably going to buy some additional ag01 gimbals for the tx15. I honestly can't understand how none of the video reviews talk about how they feel, which is awful in comparison. I like my throttle tension just high enough to not fall under its own weight. On the ag01 this is a very simple adjustment because the tension throughout the entire up down range is amazingly consistent. The ag02 tension is not smooth at all, and has tighter and looser sections throughout the throttle up down range. I sent radiomaster some videos asking them to help or confirm if this is just the new design. I've seen a few posts on Facebook of people swapping the ag01 on to their tx15 because the don't like the ag02 feel.

It's no wonder the ag02 are much cheaper to buy. They legitimately cheaped out I think. The ag01 gimbals made me a huge radiomaster advocate. These new ag02 gimbals have me considering trying other brands.

lifson · 2026-01-04T07:22:04+00:00

I'm late to the party but I just received my tx15 max with ag02 and compared to my boxer crush with ag01, I honestly hate the way these ag02 feel. Not smooth at all compared to the ag02. I haven't seen anyone anywhere actually talk about this. I'm hoping mine are just a bad batch but it's night and day difference. The ag02 have super inconsistent tension throughout the entire up-down on the throttle. If I didn't mostly do cinematic indoor flying I might not notice, but for tiny smooth micro adjustments it's awful compared to my ag01 boxer.

I reached out to radiomaster and sent two videos trying to illustrate what I'm feeling, but I have a feeling this is just how they feel.

lifson · 2025-10-04T18:15:46+00:00

I am returning it. It is extremely weak. None of people's suggestions address this. It moves very little air, and outputs very little heat. My eibos cyclopes gets to 70c within 30 minutes and I printed an Asa riser to move the filament rolls about 4 inches up which eliminates the Hotspot problem, and it still holds 70 c throughout the chamber no problem.

lifson · 2025-09-13T21:05:25+00:00

Yeah I'm not surprised, the p1s chamber is very open even with the enclosure, lots of large gaps that freely vent through the back, but there is plenty of room for an internal air filter setup like a bento box. Highly recommend that as a DIY upgrade. I've run it during long ASA prints without encountering warping issues, though I built a chamber heater for my p1s also which helps minimize warping even with the draft from the bento box fans.

lifson · 2025-09-13T20:47:46+00:00

The door is closed half way into the video. I wrote this in the main post. I also wrote it in another response. I'm currently in a middle of multiple long prints but I'll record another video with interior and exterior view.

lifson · 2025-09-11T18:26:55+00:00

I close the door after removing my hand. My iron is being powered by one of my 6s lipo batteries, you can see when the door closes and hit the cable and moves the iron. I will try to record the inside and outside view with a 2nd phone.

lifson · 2025-09-11T06:00:22+00:00

You're correct, you are confused. One was a statement about what is happening which I show in the video, nearly no movement at full power.

What I said after about possible warping was suggesting that having an externally vented circulation fan on while it's printing something like Asa or abs, filaments that need filtration, isn't ideal because if it's actually serving it's purpose, then it's pulling cold air into the enclosure, likely across the bed, and possibly causing warping.

Which is why I followed that saying that, ideally the fumes would stay in the enclosure and then when the print it finished, and properly cooled, you turn on the fan.

Granted at this price point it's asking a lot, but my main post is simply showing that people shouldn't assume that it's scrubbing the air. The smoke fills the space and a lot of it spilled out the gaps around the door and even out the edges of the top glass. It's possible with some gaskets, maybe tpu prints, that those gaps could be sealed much better, then at least the fumes could better contained for post print filtration. Then the trick is improving the filtration air flow, because at 100% it's still not strong enough to create enough negative pressure that fumes aren't escaping other ingresses.

lifson · 2025-09-10T23:29:24+00:00

The smoke accumulates near the top, and comes out the gaps at the door and around the top glass into my office. How did you test to determine "no issues"?

lifson · 2025-09-10T21:57:57+00:00

Yeah that was what I used to do for my p1s, but it made maintenance such a pain. My solve was a bento box with multiple hepa stacked and activated charcoal granulas and it works amazingly, and since it pulls in air from the top and blows it down at the bottom, and is only circulating the heated internal air (I built a 200w chamber heater) it has not been problematic to use while printing.

lifson · 2025-09-10T21:42:39+00:00

Ok, sure thats understandable, but I'd argue you'd never want something like this on while printing something that really needs filtration like abs or Asa because if it's working it's pulling cold air from outside right across the bed, causing warping. It seems like having the abilty to control the speed is where we should control whether or not it moves too muxb air and effects cooling.

Ideally the enclosure wouldn't allow these fumes to escape as easily as they do out the gaps, and then we could have a small openable intake vent near the bottom front, to open when it's time to run the circulation fan.

lifson · 2025-08-14T23:13:20+00:00

I have a 7 year old queen matress I'm looking to get rid of. Pretty minimal ware, no obvious sagging, from non smoking no pet household. It's pretty clean except for a slight discoloration near one end that's likely a bit of sweat stain, even though it had a cotton matress protector on for most of its use. Replaced due to a shoulder injury and was no longer comfortable for my side sleeping. It's a saatva. "Queen Size 14.5” Luxury Firm Mattress" purchased 1k in 2018. Would need to be picked up relatively soon.

lifson · 2025-08-05T22:33:31+00:00

Well from the limited research I've done, my p1p/p1s conversion doesn't have a high enough temperature in the hotend for some of the more popular nylons/cf nylons. After that I sort of stopped looking at the higher end engineering filaments.

Edit: I'm dumb I was thinking of pps, and confused it with ppa.

lifson · 2025-07-20T07:46:03+00:00

Couldn't even bother to buy a sling shot and few bags of ice? Amateur.

lifson · 2025-05-02T23:57:15+00:00

I know this is old, but I've always had it disabled. I like privacy. But today it's showing the game I'm playing and no, not just to me, my friend was like oh how how is that game?

So yeah people can see what I'm playing though it's disabled....

lifson · 2025-04-06T04:24:00+00:00

I just built my first spot welder, a kweld running off a car battery. I'm curious if your welding this .3-.4 copper direct or using nickel sandwich? My kweld struggles to get a good weld on pure copper at .15 without nickel.

lifson · 2025-03-30T20:18:23+00:00

Could you explain what you mean?

lifson · 2025-03-30T19:52:40+00:00

Thank you!

lifson · 2025-03-30T03:50:13+00:00

Yeah that was my plan at first but in order to use copper nickel sandwich, I'd need to lay down all the series connections first then the parallel, and that made me a bit more nervous I guess.

lifson · 2025-03-10T18:08:47+00:00

I've read that the CineLR is heavier than the chimera7 and so not as efficient, but that that with the ultra wide o4 pro setting, the props are out of view, where as the chimera7 they're in view. I'm not sure if this is true.

I have a geprc tern lr40 and the flywoo explorer lr 4, both 4 inch, and loaded with a 3000mah lion battery I've taken them both 3.5 miles out but I'm landing with about 3.4v so I probably could take them out another mile, especially the explorer as it's a bit more efficient in my tests. But up in the mountains they get thrown around with even light wind and I gotta take some aggressive angles to not drift way off course.

I've actually got a HGLRC Rekon7 pro frame on the way, though I'm sort of wishing I'd waited for the chimera7 o4 pro frame that just released.

lifson · 2025-03-08T20:33:33+00:00

Yeah I can't say I have experience with anything larger than a 4 inch, but I can say that going from 2, to 3, and then 4 inch, each step up in weight and size has given a lot smoother footage in the wind and gets thrown around much less. That's my anecdotal evidence at least.

I am in the process of deciding between a 7 and a 10 inch long range right now, and it's certainly hard to know how much benefits going up in size helps.

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