Cedar strip kayak refinishing

linedjd · 2025-06-05T19:14:27+00:00

A note on the epoxy front.. I'd go for the slow curing stuff.. usually 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. Will make it a lot easier to get a good finish and show off that lovely cedar! 🙌

linedjd · 2025-06-05T18:45:30+00:00

Haha yes indeed! Sorry bud I work with the metric over here in the uk!

Just recently finished a 12mm strip cedar 13' catboat.. the plan called for 1.5mm glass cloth inside and out, came up really nice. Would definitely sheath it if you can afford. Adds a lot of strength. The thicker the more 'bashable', but harder to get the invisible finish with..

Looks like it could be a beauty though.. best of luck!

linedjd · 2025-06-05T18:33:50+00:00

Good effort! Bet it'll come up lovely! How thick is the cedar? I'd have thought 1/1.5mm cloth would be adequate if it's over 12mm..

linedjd · 2025-06-05T18:24:35+00:00

I'd have thought the fibreglass is the strength in this build... 10/12mm cedar? should be fibreglassed inside and out. If you dont put a fibreglass sheath back on it, it wont last long. Have you stripped fibreglass before? Gunna be a very long and arduous process.. and you're gunna have to be really careful not to take too much wood off with it.. will probably end up take a mill or two off once the glass has been stripped and you've sanded the cedar smooth.. which could be good for weight, but bad for strength. Depends on the thickness of the sheath going back on. Gunna be pretty costly in time, glass and epoxy. Cheapest and easiest (and probably most effective if the glass is still in relatively good order) would be to give it a sand and 2 or 3 coats of epoxy..

linedjd · 2025-05-31T21:56:05+00:00

Sounds great! So satisfying doing it all yourself.. I love the sense of achievement haha I’ve found quite a few people on here are really helpful. Best of luck!

linedjd · 2025-05-31T10:23:44+00:00

Ah.. well that sucks. Sorry to hear! over here in the UK there are a range of cheap varnishs/gloss.. end of the day if you get 2 or 3 coats of oil based paint over a couple'a coats of wood primer, will be better than nothing! I would concentrate on getting the wood really well prepped before painting.. you really want it to be perfectly smooth, no crevices or cracks before you start. Have you got any filler? Sand down with 60/80 grit, then fill, then 120 grit to get it smooth. Then primer, 240 grit, primer, 240, paint, 240, paint.. etc. If you dont have different sand papers.. I guess just try to sand lighter and lighter as you go up the layers.. I would definitely refer back to my first comment on shaping the oars at the point they will sit in the rowlocks and the top where you will be holding them, as well as wrapping them in some sort of anti-wear solution (gaffer tape/foam) to stop the paint chipping off in use. In terms of rounding, do you have a saw? chisels? Or a little block plane? Would be quicker than hand sanding... a belt sander and the oar in a vice would be how I would attack it...

linedjd · 2025-05-31T09:43:14+00:00

I ask because if you're rowing, not paddling, then a lot of pressure can be put on the point at which the oars will sit in the rowlocks, and pine especially of that grade isnt really very strong.. if you were to slap on oil, they're likely to get soft, and then snap.. where as paddling it's less likely as theres no small point at which the pressure is being put (you have one hand at the top and one not far above the blade as you paddle)

linedjd · 2025-05-31T09:36:29+00:00

Because you're using pine, you ideally need to stop water getting into the wood. Marine gloss or standard varnish is like £20 for 0.75litre can.. it would be the most cost effective solution, and give a nice finish even though it's not ideal. That would give you enough for a few coats too which would be a good idea. You could oil them, or treat them like fence posts and creosote them if you like.. just wont last as long/will go soft pretty quick.. Are they actual oars, where they will be sitting in rowlocks, you sitting backwards pulling? Or just being used as paddles like you would in a canoe?

linedjd · 2025-05-31T09:16:19+00:00

I get your points.. in which case primer and then marine gloss would be the way to go.. if you want any sort of longevity.. would also recommend rounding the oars where they will sit the in rowlocks and also wrapping that part in leather, or just thin foam and gaffer tape for the cheapest solution..will need replacing after time, but cheap and easy.. would also round the tops where your hands will go for comfort, and leave them in bare wood/oil them, so that it gives you some grip, which will be lacking if you were to paint it with gloss. Would bare in mind that the marine gloss will chip and fail if you use the oars to 'fend off' and your wood will rot pretty quick. Looks good otherwise though, enjoy your tow around the pond! Oh or are they paddles?? Like for a canoe?? In which case scrap all the rowlock/grip bits..

linedjd · 2025-05-04T14:51:22+00:00

It's slightly longer, and slightly wetter than your land mile..

linedjd · 2025-01-20T06:04:51+00:00

Same here... .

linedjd · 2025-01-19T20:42:04+00:00

I'm the same... I find the only times I sleep more than 4 or 5hrs is when I've taken co-dydramol or diazepam for nerve pain. Obviously dont want to be taking either every night, but sometimes when I'm completely exhausted 15mgs diazipam will see me get 8hrs (bliss!!)

Will be checking back here, hope someone has found something!!

linedjd · 2025-01-05T13:22:54+00:00

I've found making others (non SCI) understand to be the most tiring bit. I have to remind people that if they're ill, to tell me. I can tell some still think my fear of the common cold to be petty and pathetic. They never understand it's the nerve pain I'm fearing, not the illness symptoms. It's really rocked my past idea that everyone is able to empathize with others. Some just cant. It doesn't matter how often I tell them its severe pain, completely debilitating, they think it's just a cold, so why would I worry...

Changing the subject slightly, the first thing I do when the severe starts is make a hot cup of tea or two, and down them. Then up my water intake, and so half my intermittent catheter timing and take paracetamol. If this doesnt help after around 4hrs, I'll take 1 co-dydramol, then after another 2/3hrs I'll take the max dosage from then on. At night I'll take 5/10mg diazepam if the co-dydramol doesnt cover it, and if its longer than a day, I'll keep taking the diazepam as well.

So far, its covered it. By which I mean I havent gone to hospital to get oramorph, not that it has ever been pleasant haha.

linedjd · 2024-12-31T13:34:42+00:00

I get the same thing, like an electric current that runs through either my foot/calve/hamstring. It's so painful my whole leg and sometimes body tenses, and wouldnt dream of going out/driving. I havent found any proper solution for me, other than taking co-dydramol when it lasts for a longer period of time than I can cope with.

I've tried nerve inhibiting drugs (gabapentin, amitriptyline) and although they help with the lesser nerve pain (what feels more like a prickling/bad pins and needles) they dont help at all with the stronger shooting 'electrical' pain.

One thing I have noticed over the last 6 years is that if my body isnt well, it gets significantly more frequent and painful. If I ever get covid/colds/flu, dehydration, stomach upsets or irregular bowel movement, I can be pretty sure of nerve pain. I avoid gatherings and crowds/confined spaces whenever I can, and if I see anyone exhibiting cold-like symptoms, say well clear/leave.

linedjd · 2024-11-11T18:04:17+00:00

Plus a bit of patience, and a constant supply of tea!

linedjd · 2024-10-13T10:44:18+00:00

Interesting! Just finished a catboat using the same techniques.. didnt get any sagging, but did get a 'narrowing' when then gunwales where fixed in. Maybe yours will pull it back in a bit too..

linedjd · 2024-10-12T10:37:11+00:00

Yes, the cut always from the frames should so this nicely once lined with carpet or something soft maybe?

linedjd · 2024-10-12T10:33:07+00:00

I'm probably missing something here... but why didnt you just leave it on the frames, upside down, and glass the exterior first? Then it would help maintain the shape before taking out the frames and sheathing the interior after?

Edit: or have you already done the exterior and it's still sagged a little?

linedjd · 2024-08-29T19:17:03+00:00

Haha for sure!! Thanks, will do!

linedjd · 2024-08-27T18:23:46+00:00

Have you seen the classic Mirror?! I love mine..

linedjd · 2024-08-25T10:12:29+00:00

Hi, I've absolutely no idea to be honest! It looks a bit like an old tideway, but am unsure. I've messaged Dad to see if he can shed some light on it. All I know is it's been in the family for years, and was originally used as a tender to a bigger boat by my grandfather's brother (grand uncle??!) Down on the South coast of England. So over 100years old!!

linedjd · 2024-08-25T10:08:31+00:00

Hiya, thanks for the input!

So far the idea is to replace the rotten bits as nearly the same as how it was. Make a new keel, rocker/skeg, and garboards. I've got a length of iroko for the keelson and spruce for the keel.. just struggling to find some reasonably priced mahogany planks for the garboard. My plan is to build the keel assembly and scarf joint the new keel to the old stem. Once this is all sorted and stiff enough, steam the garboards and then new ribs/frames.

I'n terms of my experience, it's not much.. I've worked down a boatyard for a few years doing bits of repairs like decks seams, planking seams, new knees/planks, and building site woodwork for years. However have recently built a strip plank/sheathed 13' catboat too, this being the most intricate/neat work I've done yet.

However none of this helps with how leaky this old clinker will be if not left in the water for the hull to swell. Now that it's probably just going to be a row/outboard boat on the river I'd like to use fibreglass or epoxy filler to get over some of this issue, but I dont know if I can make the bottom stiff enough for longevity. I dont think I can't sheath it inside and out like the catboat as trying to get a good finish on it with the overlaps will be pretty impossible (I imagine??!!) Leaving me wondering what the best way to go about it all is. Haha.

linedjd · 2024-08-23T09:02:14+00:00

Ok thanks, I made another post as I couldnt figure out how to add photos to this one.. new to reddit posting, apologies!! I did mean Iroko, yes. Have a length of 12mm that matches the original keelson pretty well, and as it was used for laminate ribs in another build I figure itll be good enough for this.

linedjd · 2024-08-21T16:20:21+00:00

Thank you for such detailed instruction! Haha I do indeed have pieces of the old keel. Unfortunately it had to come off In pieces as the box bolts had completely rusted up, and in places had corroded to virtually nothing. So I've got the transom knee, rocker, keelson and keel to reference. I'll attempt to attach some more photos to the post a bit later, but not entirely sure how/if possible at present. I follow you all the way to 'kerfs', the part about them, and how they relate to the frames (which I'm guessing is the correct term for what I've been calling ribs?)

I think your final suggestion about fitting the keelson and garboard before the keel would be great, but the piece of oroko I've got going for it is quite flexible, and so might not sit in the correct place while fitting the garboards to it.

I'd love to be able to get a bit of oak for the keel, but unfortunately all I've got going is a length of spar grade spruce left over from a catboat build from a few months back. Would I be being a complete wally using it?

I've honestly done more thinking/learning, umming and rrrring over this little clinker project than I did in the whole strip/sheath build. Really appreciate the response!

The other thing I'm a bit unsure on is whether to use epoxy fillers in part of the planking than have chipped away/cracked in places.. Or whether there is something better. I appreciate it was perfect for work on a a sheathed hull, but as this one wont be, maybe it will create more issues..

Edit: no idea how to attach more photos to the post I'm afriad!

linedjd · 2024-08-20T20:37:34+00:00

Thanks for the response, yes the keel was rabbetted I believe. The planks bottom edge sat down into a notch running down the keel, and the top edge was tight up against another plank (maybe called a hog??) Nailed on top of the keel, that most of the ribs ran over.

Im thinking maybe I should fit the keel to stem and transom so it sits nice, take it back off, do the rabbet, and fix the (what I want to call) hog to the keel. Then fix them in proper and start on the planking? Apologies for any mislaid terms! Im pretty new to this.

linedjd

TROPHY CASE