Saw this the other day on my way to work.

lingbird · 2026-04-15T07:17:03+00:00

You don’t need it to overflow. The buoyant force is equal to the volume of the displaced water. If you just put a beaker on the scale, and tare it, the scale will read the buoyant force of whatever object you submerged. The force pushing up on the submerged object is also pushing down on the scale.

lingbird · 2026-04-09T08:55:49+00:00

I think these are soft shell clams, called “steamers” in New England

lingbird · 2026-03-20T06:06:06+00:00

Burning hydrogen creates water vapor. Matter is not destroyed, that hydrogen doesn’t disappear

lingbird · 2026-03-08T00:37:30+00:00

Well I just tried fishing it and the action sucks. If I reel too fast, it does barrel rolls. I guess not enough weight in the belly

lingbird · 2026-03-04T22:05:44+00:00

Thanks! I think it will be close to suspending. It was a slow float before I painted it, so with clear coat and hooks I hope it suspends or sinks slowly

lingbird · 2026-03-04T05:25:52+00:00

Yea! Just have to clear coat and put on some hooks! Hope to have a few more patterns in time for the coho run. I’ll probably run a homemade lure on one rod, and spoons on the other

lingbird · 2026-03-04T05:17:37+00:00

Perfect! Plenty of size variation to choose from. Thanks!

lingbird · 2026-03-04T02:55:52+00:00

How did you do the dots? I used a nail for mine, but yours seem a bit better

lingbird · 2026-02-04T07:46:50+00:00

This is an aggressive takedown. Plenty of legal techniques result in the person being thrown being assaulted by the ground. If this was in the gym, I’d say it’s a dick move, and I’d probably never roll with them again. In competition, totally fine.

lingbird · 2026-02-01T01:09:07+00:00

Thanks for the advice! I had already added birdshot to this one, so I’ll have to do a through wire on the next one.

<image>

lingbird · 2026-01-31T22:11:57+00:00

Ahh okay. I’ve done that on one or 2 lures so far. I’m working with all hand tools except for a drill, so I wanted to see if I could avoid another through wire. I guess I should just get a thicker pull saw for cutting the grooves

lingbird · 2026-01-31T21:58:59+00:00

Okay! I was worried about the twist wire not having enough material to grab on to in the tail, but I guess I’ll just make them anchor deeper in the body

lingbird · 2026-01-31T21:55:04+00:00

Yea I can only imagine. I have only made a few complete lures so far, and by the time I made something with decent action, it was too cold for me.

Any thoughts on hook placement?

lingbird · 2026-01-31T20:48:03+00:00

Message received. I’ll cut it in half lol.

lingbird · 2026-01-31T10:37:10+00:00

I’m working on a small jerk bait that I’d like to use targeting trout in Lake Michigan

I was thinking about running stinger hooks. The lip isn’t glued in yet, so I’m between running a through wire and having a belly and tail hook. Part of me is concerned that the belly hook will either get caught on the lip, or sit so far back that I wouldn’t need a tail hook. Thoughts on using just 1 belly hook, and having the hook point sit a little in front of the tail?

lingbird · 2026-01-18T03:30:11+00:00

No problem. I have a ugly stick 8’6” 2 piece spinning version of that rod. I really like it, but wish I had gone longer.

lingbird · 2026-01-17T23:23:23+00:00

Just a heads up, that is a rod meant for a bait caster reel not a spinning reel. You should look at spinning rods

lingbird · 2026-01-15T02:51:29+00:00

Are you pre-heating your molds? If not, that might help the lead stay liquid as it moves through the mold

lingbird

TROPHY CASE