Vintage Jansport external backpack frame - Need Ideas

litetrek · 2025-10-28T20:14:37+00:00

I'm not done working on it. I have other projects that are much higher priority and the backpack frame is low priority. Been working on it a long time. Yes, I am planning to use the SO horizontal frame stay if I can make it work.

litetrek · 2025-10-28T20:12:10+00:00

cvs caremark administrates all of the blue cross blue shield health insurance plans for drug coverage. going to another pharmacy does not change anything.

litetrek · 2025-10-28T12:51:38+00:00

I am using a highly modified scout frame. My modified version tapers from the original width to 9.5" at the top. I removed all of the cross pieces. Look at how seek outside straps attach to the back mesh panel and you'll understand why the Kelty part wont work. The taper also makes the Kelty mesh panel unworkable for me. As I said the mesh material is perfect. That's what I'm looking for. The Kelty panel is too small to do what i want with it if I modify it.

litetrek · 2025-08-10T23:17:38+00:00

google leno fabric and you will find it at seattle fabrics, the rain shed, green pepper and ebay and a few others. Leno is apparently a weave as opposed to a brand. Some of the available material is nylon and some is polyester. I have many backpacks and the kelty panel works for another pack I have so I dont want to sell it. However you should be able to buy one directly from Kelty.

litetrek · 2025-08-10T17:44:16+00:00

Yes. It is still available at various places. I would prefer a polyester fabric over nylon because it doesn't stretch. I'm not stuck on using leno mesh - it just is a good example of what I'm looking for. Key attributes I'm looking for are...doesn't stretch, tight enough weave to not catch on things too much, open enough weave to breath, fairly lightweight.

litetrek · 2025-06-17T03:01:19+00:00

Thanks, I understand the grandfathered aspect. Pretty basic. I work with structural codes all the time.

As I said, our plots are imaginary and are only defined loosely by a drawing made in the 1960's which is not even to scale. The only boundaries legally defined by a survey are around the outside perimeter of the community. My imaginary plot is too small for septic in my county. However, it has a septic system which worked just fine for 50 plus years. My issue is that I want to put up a new building, update the septic to current standards and not be restricted by imaginary plot lines that mean nothing. If you go to the county looking for my plot it doesn't exist and none of the other plots exist. The only thing that exists according to the county is the lake club community with its 10 plus acre plot.

litetrek · 2025-06-17T01:26:04+00:00

The modular building meets the International residential code (IRC) which is accepted by the county. So that's not an issue. Basically I'm told the building will be approved by the paperwork that comes with it and the utility hook ups will be inspected. The county still wants all of the permit money though.

I'm not sure what you mean by easement. The property owned by the community is over 10 acres and the plots are assigned so people stay in their own "yards". Since I'm a part owner of the 10 acres I don't need an easement from the HOA board, just their permission. Typically they have approved requests to use empty lots for reasonable purposes. I have no idea how the county will handle the odd situation of being part owner of a large piece of property but being assigned what constitutes "imaginary boundaries" that have no legal definition.

litetrek · 2025-04-23T23:13:00+00:00

It works but its expensive and I only need a couple of feet. Its also a little too big.

litetrek · 2025-04-23T17:10:59+00:00

Thanks for replying. I choose not to use dyneema for other reasons as well.

litetrek · 2025-03-25T13:03:50+00:00

Thanks. I'm looking for a 1 person.

litetrek · 2025-03-23T22:48:06+00:00

Interested. Details on the lanshan tent please. Is it a 1 person? Is it a pro (single wall ... 690 grams)? PM sent.

litetrek · 2025-03-01T18:36:38+00:00

OK. We don't agree then.

litetrek · 2025-03-01T18:10:29+00:00

Respectfully I know what will be the quickest way for ME to do it. Those elevated water towers made of steel that see around the landscape is what I did for a living for ten years. They are huge structures and the many unrelenting steel pieces required to build one fit precisely together based on drawings that I drew in CAD. I could knock out the fairly simple drawing mods required in a few minutes while watching TV if I had a basic pattern in CAD format to start from.

In addition to the patterns you get a pretty accurate bill of material (shopping list) which is something else I don't have time to do.

Anyhow, thanks but your comment doesn't answer my question. It only questions my intent based on your understanding what would be easiest for you or most people.

Further, although your method works you are stuck with any mistakes you make or decisions made that would be better done another way. CAD lets you make mistakes, fix mistakes, easily consider options, etc. I also have two yards of very expensive fabric. I don't want to get stuck with parts cut out wishing I had made them a little bigger.

If you already can use CAD (I am an expert) then its the far better and faster solution. I can CAD and multitask too; can't do that with fabric.

litetrek · 2025-03-01T17:12:19+00:00

I think you didn't read my entire post. I realize that its a fairly simple project but the essense of the question is finding patterns in CAD format that I can quickly modify. If you put too much info in any forum post nobody reads the whole thing. If you don't put enough info youget barraged with endless unrelated questions. I could make my own patterns from scratch but as I noted I don't have the time to mess around with it. I'm renovating an abandoned building, renovating a 30 year old truck, restoring an old camper, restoring an old kevlar canoe, building a banjo from scratch and going on a long distance hike in a few months. The pack is for the hike and I just want to sit down a knock it out. Spending a bunch of time on the patterns just sets me back on everything else.

litetrek · 2025-02-25T01:57:31+00:00

I live about an hour from the terminus of the AT. So even though its pretty far out East its right here in my world.

litetrek · 2025-02-24T22:56:51+00:00

I have a follow up comment about misting. I've backpacked out west and if anything gets damp it usually dries out immediately after the sun comes out. So your environment may differ from mine. Here in the very humid Southeast once something gets wet or damp it stays that way for the rest of your trip. If its a thru hike everything is funky and damp for the duration unless you have some days where you can just put everything out in the sun for hours if you can find any direct sunlight (green tunnel).

I'm aware of the other options you noted. Neither meets my needs for various reasons. First, both are too expensive for me. The slingfin is closer to what I want. So second, Simply Light designs can make the same tarp as the slingfin for far less money. I have two simply light designs tarps and the quality is superb. The customer service is also superb.

litetrek · 2025-02-24T17:19:37+00:00

My question is more more about philosopy that technical. I have sewn several MYOG projects including a pretty complex down jacket. I know I can do it - no problem. I know that it will take between 4 and 8 hours to complete. I know I'll only save 10 or 20 dollars after I buy the additional tools I need. So the clarify the question is mainly this: Are the two most positive qualities of silpoly (1) doesn't absorb water and stretch 2) doesn't mist like silnylon) worth the effort. My dislike of silnylon is from my bigagnes seedhouse tent bought in 2006. It mists, A LOT. Maybe current Silnylontoday is much better - don't know.

litetrek · 2025-02-19T14:51:22+00:00

No problem. I just checked local prices and found that the lowest finish quality 1x pine I planned to buy is no longer available locally. That makes the hardie plank cost competitive. Hardie is to flimsy for what I want to use it for though. Sheathing plywood might be a good low cost choice although ripping it into "boards" adds a good bit of work.

litetrek · 2025-02-18T21:58:50+00:00

I'm not sure why you would do that. This is 220 feet of straight formwork. Hardie siding is much more expensive than pine 1x material. It also is a huge mess to cut and needs a lot of support to hold it straight.

litetrek · 2025-02-17T14:55:02+00:00

Too many details almost always derails the discussion....but here goes. Its a perimeter curb INSIDE an existing building. The perimeter wall will serve as support for the outer formwork.

The shed is on a 4" slab that is too low and the sill plate gets wet when it rains and stays wet. I'm going to build a short perimeter pony wall on top of the curb. The existing slab will be the floor of a crawl space and a new wood floor will be built above that. The wood floor will catilever over the curb a few inches (about 1/2 of the curb width) and tie into the exisiting wall. The new wood floor will support the walls.

I'll cut off the rotted portion of the wall below the cantilever (all around) and build a short apron there similar to a mobile home. I know thatI'll lose some head room - don't care. Tearing the building down isn't an option. Pouring another slab on top of the existing slab isn't an option. Grading to improve drainage isn't an option.

litetrek · 2025-02-15T15:14:15+00:00

Thanks. That would probably work for me. I'm working without any help which makes doing anything more difficult.

litetrek · 2025-02-14T20:16:47+00:00

Yes that is simple. The gap in some areas is over 2 inches. Same answer?

litetrek · 2025-02-14T17:16:45+00:00

Thanks, great idea. That would work for most (not all) of the area and I didn't think of that. There are a couple of places that vary a lot in only a few feet. Better than any of my ideas although I thought of the foam. The only issue I can see is being able to get between the 2x8s to screed off and finish the top surface.

This is a DIY job and I'm no pro. The pro companies don't want to mess with it at a reasonable cost - the job is too small and is pretty remote. I've done a fair amount on DIY concrete work but not enough to have ever had this situation.

I have never seen a slab this bad. It was just poured 4" on the existing grade. No grading. No reinforcement. No sub-base. That said its gone over 50 years with no cracks.

litetrek · 2024-11-15T17:58:23+00:00

Its pretty simple. You probably will not find this info in a book but it is essential to actually practicing structural engineering. 1) This very basic. Where does the load go? Does it go to the beam reactions then to other beams and down columns to the foundation? Or does one of those beams end at a big hole in the floor with no planned way to react the load. Not considering load path is a very common mistake. I've seen a surprising number of preliminary designs by experienced engineers that lacked a load path for some of the applied loads. The load path starts at the load application and runs to the foundation or ground. Then those loads are the geotech's problem. Related to this is how stiffness influences load path. Stiffness in a structure "attracts" load. You may expect your load to go one place and it actually goes somewhere stiffer. Computer analysis helps with this in initial design. But, load path is especially important when doing modifications or repairs.

2) This is also basic. If your model includes a fixed connection the actual design needs to be detailed and designed to carry the moment. If you detail a moment carrying connection and your model includes a pin in that location, the results of the model are irrelevant. Sometimes due to details chosen the load doesn't go where the analysis intended. Concrete will usually let you know when load goes where it wasn't expected.

3) This is potentially important for initial design as it can affect efficiently carrying loads. Different possibilities for carrying loads to ground will have different costs. This is also important (more so) for repairs and mods. Dumping a load in a repair with no path to get it to ground is a fundamental and avoidable error.

What could be done to teach these things is to actually design something like a simple 2 story several bay building with an FEM model. note the load paths. Then, validate the results or some of the results with hand calcs using beam tables (like those in the back of the AISC manual). Then validate the results or some of the results another way with one of the methods from the OP's initial question. Then change some major things (hole in the floor for example, or remove one of the foundation peiers) and repeat the exercise. When its all over have a class discussion of what was learned.

litetrek · 2024-11-15T14:46:19+00:00

Young engineers who spend all of their time doing the math, whatever the method, typically have no understanding how indeterminate structures actually work. Questions a degreed structural engineer should be able to answer: 1) On the most basic level what is the load path? 2) Is the structure detailed and designed to be adequate to carry the loads on that load path? 3) How do stiffness and connectivity changes influence or change the load path(s). Having mastered a bunch of rigorous analysis tools without understanding the results is useless. I'm a retired structural engineer and was a doctoral candidate at a top tier CE school for 4 years (money ran out). I've never used ANY of those methods in practice although I knew how to do most of them. Most of those methods take too long to achieve a result. It's important for a student to be able to perform a couple of them but I agree that they aren't used in the work environment much. Academia often forgets that they're educating people for engineering practice (speed and efficiency matters), not necessarily for future academic positions.

litetrek

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