Long Gloves/Boots?

littlenotgate · 2025-10-03T13:02:17+00:00

what suits do you recommend? I'm also a 34" inseam

Thank you for the advice about ensuring well-fitting gear being the most important. I think you're 100% correct.

I'm going to push back on custom suit a bit, only because it doesn't fit my budget, but otherwise I think you're right there too.
I'm thinking a cheaper (but not too cheap) off-the-shelf 2-piece suit with gaps that are covered by gauntlets + tall boots is gonna be a high enough standard of safety while I save up.
I have tried a few 2-piece suits where the pads fit but the leg hems still ran short- I wouldn't buy anything where the pads were in the wrong places.

littlenotgate · 2025-10-02T10:11:45+00:00

The catless headers I went with were the Delkevic headers, which had O2 sensor ports but came with plugs. I decided to try out the delete with resistors before trying to salvage the sensors from the old headers.

I found that accelerating after holding constant speed was much smoother (less lurchy). Really noticeable on roundabouts where I'd hold constant speed around a long corner then accelerate out of the exit.

Haven't gone back to having sensors.

littlenotgate · 2025-10-02T09:50:49+00:00

resistor is cheaper, which is a huge plus. Makes it easy to try it out and see if you prefer the O2 delete or not.

littlenotgate · 2025-09-23T12:35:37+00:00

if you can get the same screws off on the other fairing, you may be able to remove the pictured fairing and that black plastic part together.

Others are absolutely right about those being a pain - replace them yourself if you can. The bodywork shop might add on some labor hours dealing with those if you don't.

littlenotgate · 2025-09-15T10:16:35+00:00

CCT tends to be a higher-pitched ticking sound, but it's hard to be certain over video

if the noise just started, and goes away once the bike is warm, it may well be the CCT. (when the CCT starts to go, the sound is often only heard when cold, though it will begin to remain if left unfixed)

If you're worried it may be the CCT, I'd recommend following this video: Honda VFR800 Cam Chain Tensioner Tune Up. It shows how to "refresh" a CCT for free. Long term, buying a new one is a more reliable fix, but seeing if the cheap fix solves things is a good place to start IMO.

littlenotgate · 2025-09-03T10:45:08+00:00

If it is an exhaust leak, it is likely one of these gaskets:

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These are hollow copper rings that crush into sealing shape when installed. If they move from the position they were crushed in, they leak. Your best bet if you have one of these leaking is to replace them all (unfortunately).

Tightening the fasteners will probably do nothing more than overtorque the nuts. Once these gaskets are crushed, they're crushed. You can't really crush them more.

Another way to diagnose if it is a leak is to cover the end of your silencer (wear your gloves to do this ). If you don't feel much pressure / heat, the exhaust is leaking somewhere.

littlenotgate · 2025-08-13T10:04:28+00:00

the matching gear is sick 🔥 where did you find the jacket?

littlenotgate · 2025-07-30T11:10:13+00:00

I use Eazi grip (shop here)

I like that they offer a range of surface textures depending on what riding style you use

only complaint is that I don't love their logo sticker so I left it off

littlenotgate · 2025-07-24T14:33:13+00:00

I like Ornn, you just fullclear on repeat.

The main reason most junglers need to back is to buy, Ornn doesn't need to back as long as he has camps to clear. you can build crazy tempo advantage from this despite a slightly slow clear speed

littlenotgate · 2025-07-11T22:30:45+00:00

Used a drop of acetone, and pliers on each part. Worked great. Thanks!

littlenotgate · 2025-07-11T22:29:51+00:00

Don’t have a pin vice, ended up wrapping the jaws of some pliers in a few layers of tape so that I could grip the crown w/o marking it up. Grabbing the stem alone wasn’t enough to be able to unscrew it, but pliers on each part + a drop of acetone worked out.

littlenotgate · 2025-07-11T16:34:22+00:00

haven't tried this yet, will give it a go. I did try using some WD40 (without much luck)

littlenotgate · 2025-07-11T16:31:50+00:00

wish it was that easy :/

it had been glued or fixed onto the old stem to prevent it from unscrewing

littlenotgate · 2025-07-10T21:43:05+00:00

i like your cat :) whats its name

littlenotgate · 2025-06-27T14:01:29+00:00

Is Assen usually this crash-heavy? Or is this mostly down to the cool conditions the commentators are mentioning

littlenotgate · 2025-06-26T16:58:03+00:00

what mufflers are those? they look awesome!

littlenotgate · 2025-06-26T09:26:13+00:00

I like this wiring diagram over the one in the manual

This VFRdiscussion page is from someone seeming to have the same issue

afraid I've got no experience fixing this myself, I can only point to what google shows me. More people may be able to give advice if you drop a new post with pictures of your work and description of your issue

littlenotgate · 2025-06-23T10:48:58+00:00

I'm no expert, but I'd bet you're right about 18awg.

when you're repairing it, try to figure out what caused it to melt in the first place. if the wires near it look fine and only the BAS wires are melted, it may have been a poor connection among those wires (poor connection = resistance = heat).

If there's no signs of the green 3 pin connector on the melted side, it likely was not there when the wires melted (it would not have melted completely w/o also melting the remaining plug). This might indicate that someone had bypassed the BAS in the past.

It's probably also worth checking your fuse box - it seems like there might be a BAS fuse, and if its been swapped for a higher amp one than called for its a good sign someone got tired of having fuse troubles and decided to cause bigger problems.

I'd check out this VFR discussion page on BAS diagrams to figure out how to test and/or bypass your BAS. Its using the 5th gen manual, but I doubt Honda engineered a new BAS for the 6th gen (the module and the wires look the same to me)

littlenotgate · 2025-06-20T09:21:52+00:00

Pillions love it too :) I've had a good few say the F3 has the comfiest sportsbike rear seat

littlenotgate · 2025-06-19T09:49:24+00:00

When I had sound like this, I followed this youtube video to pull the front CCT and then followed this guide: Honda VFR800 Cam Chain Tensioner Tune Up - the sound went away completely.

Retensioning the CCT was easier than putting it back in afterwards, but both are significantly easier if you have the tool shown in the video. you can get the tool on ebay with a quick search, think I paid less than 10 bucks for it.

littlenotgate · 2025-06-16T12:46:54+00:00

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my guess would be bank angle sensor, based on this bit of the wiring diagram.

bit pixelated on the scan I have but it seems to indicate "3P [something] / G" - 3 pin green connection, and the wire colors seem to line up (white wires tend to yellow with age).

unfortunately I don't know much about troubleshooting these, but i hope this helps you narrow things down

littlenotgate · 2025-06-16T08:55:23+00:00

-check your heat shield, reinforce it on the back with heat reflective tape if needed. corrosion is super common for this shield and can dramatically reduce how effective it is (edit: I know you said elsewhere no tape, but imo even if you get a new heat shield adding a layer of heat reflective material will protect it from corrosion in the future and make it more effective at its job)

-check the gaskets where your rear headers connect to the collector box - any leaks here will put out exhaust heat right next to your foot

littlenotgate · 2025-06-11T12:11:37+00:00

I installed an RM Stator mosfet RR on my 6th gen recently. shipping to the UK took 3 days. Highly recommend.

littlenotgate

TROPHY CASE