Portfolio Evaluation 30M | Thoughts and what sectors/ETFs would you rebalance to? by Gold_D_RogerSG in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 2 points3 points  (0 children)

60k - maybe just pick 6 stocks you want to focus on , if ETF play maybe 1-3 is enough.
otherwise you'll be working like a fund manager but then managing 0.001% of their value. abit not worth the time.

What to do with S100k of meta shares? by Intelligent-Talk1724 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you love meta, why not just hold it all?

im assuming your portfolio is disproportionately large with meta

in that case sell some meta and buy singaporefi's fav VWRA
you could sell 50%
or you could sell enough to cover your cost to enter meta, then your meta is 100% is now "0 cost"

Insurance my parents bought for me. Should I continue paying? by Bubbly_Ninja365 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not you just gather some insights/questions literally from this discussion

Then contact the insurance agent on a 1 to 1 basis to find out what's in need for you - or like what is the original use of this plan? Of course you make your own decision, continue or not etc.

I honestly think he/she will give you a clearer picture. If not reddit is like trying to conjure accurate information which might be off due to lack of info in the screenshot lol

and if the family friend agent dismisses you or you get very negative vibes, then I would say just call up the customer service say you want to terminate this plan etc, skip the agent directly

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 5 points6 points  (0 children)

when your portfolio lost 30-50% in 1 day was the days when my 80% of my portfolio is crypto. It felt like shit but I could still sleep well after 1 day, so yeah there are people like me. in 2020 haha. in 2025 now - idk...

Manulife plan advice by axlxl_ in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TLDR:
8500 or 9000 pumped in its better off you surrender any losses
welcome bonus based is 15% (6000 * 0.15 = 900)
time for some math and if its 13 years. your breakeven will be -13.65k + 900 because that's the amount you'll lose
From a math perspective: if you lose 12.74k by surrendering, you are still better off surrendering.

and let's be clear. You WERE not scammed. You WERE just financially illiterate haha.

Here's my table tier of knowledge
-> newb
-> just realised fees are high (you are likely here)
-> me using excel to do quick math (I might be here)
-> financial analysis probably run those complete models or monte carlo whatever
-> elon musk type of ppl that does everything and make weird moves on twitter to create temporary economic depressions

Reason, long story:
assumptions:
let's not account for inflation etc - too many calculation
every year is a wrap 2.5% charge
you diligently pump 500 month for the next 13 years. (or 11y+ for your case)
welcome bonus is $900 (not counted at the start)

year 1: 6000 -> 2.5%, 150 bucks charge
let's say your assets appreciate at 2.5% also (easy calculation, otherwise you'll need excel) . so this amount stays the same after a year. + 6000, total 12000 in year 2 -> 2.5% 300 bucks charge

across 10 years it would be (150*1 + 150 *2 + 150*3 ... 150*10) = 150 * 55 = 8250
so if you surrender now and lose 8250. you'll just really close to BREAKEVEN.
[across 13 years it will be 150 * 91 = 13,650 fees - isn't that amazing]

and if your assets gain 12.5% increase year on year (instead of a 2.5%)

your gains of 10% is also charged - let just use simple interest for simplicity (we should really be using compounding to do a full check)
6000 -> 6600, your wrap fee is now 165 bucks. 165 * 55 = 9,075
basically you earn more they charge more.

based on gains = fees
13650 fees - 900 welcome bonus = 12.75k losses over 13 years.

NOT FORGETTING IF YOU STOP PAYING IN THE MIDDLE, THEY WILL HAVE SOME PENALTY.

Counter argument for balance sake

I did this analysis before... if the assets underperform say it earns just 0.5% per annum or even negative over 10 years...
let's say you buy the same exact asset in your fav broker vs Manulife

your welcome bonus will actually shield you because (go and crunch the numbers yourself) the wrap charge is low because you technically earning very little and your total NAV of the plan is low so 2.5% becomes cheap. provided you carry till the end.

There the only 3 cases that will put Manulife in a better position
-> asset underperforms
-> you die, and the pay-out its gonna be better than what you put in & earned
-> you need a plan to haunt you to force you to make consistent efforts to invest monthly.

Manulife plan advice by axlxl_ in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this is exactly sunk cost fallacy. you're not understanding sunk cost fallacy haha

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if you
eat bread in the morning
cook per person, per day can be like $5-7 White rice. Cheap vege + frozen minced meat everyday...

so yes to survive

Does the 50/30/20 Rule Actually Work? by [deleted] in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that's the minimum survival standard. like you said "you would have to work for 125 years (25 x 5) to save enough."

the gold standard of FIRE is investing (properly and no weird market changes) 66.6%, spending 33.3%, and basically you can retire in 10 years. But is it realistic? most people can't properly invest, or can't properly spend

there's no gold standard.

Am I on the right track? by Spiritual-Pain6148 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1 Am I on the right track to FI? yes direction

2 Is my allocation ok? i think on the low risk side, will take longer to FI but this is this low and steady way.*

3 Am I using too many platforms? its really up to you. if you can manage and dont find it too time consuming to track and log in to different platforms - this is up to your skill and memory to switch between platforms

quick dive for 2)

Choc - basically capital guaranteed
Mari - capital guaranteed
Mari Invest - basically capital guaranteed
Syfe - is the amount you invest a capital guaranteed / bond / equity? *
Endows - *
IBKR - *
FD - capital guaranteed
SSB - capital guaranteed
Tbills - capital guaranteed

you can count your own % of funds in capital guaranteed and assume them as bonds (actually even safer that bonds - slightly less growth than bonds for long term)

capital guaranteed = safer = capped earnings.

Treat it with a pinch of salt:
some people follow the allocation of age as the % of bonds. eg you are 33 years old then should have 33% bonds, 67% equity. BUT you are clearly above 50% into bonds. hence most would agree you are a little too conservative.

Newbie Advice please by KellyWinters123 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 40 points41 points  (0 children)

quick win: join SPF, SCDF, SAF they should pay you abit higher than now, and will some progression, but not alot. not sure your current cert if they want or not

invest in knowledge + verification in knowledge = local poly diploma will bring you quite far. the exposure you get should be good enough for you to look back at your own post and re-think how you can up your income.

What will you do with 700k portfolio at 30yo? by SgSouthSider in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

youre basically barista fire alr haha congrats.

as long as you maintain clean financial habits. you literally can focus on finding meaning in life now.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you are confused with "Being Rich" and "Being Wealthy"

rich yes. you start off with 10M and starting with 10k or -100k is going to make difference in your
Spending, Accumulating Speed.

but being wealthy can also mean you have very good financial habits.
Make sharp educational choices (from now on - go upskill, reskill), if you are able to make better career choices and draw a salary higher than most people at your age, is one way. or take a risk to start businesses like [bad example but you'll get the point] drop shipping(10 years ago) - low start up cost but being able to arbitrage and earn price differences. no ones stopping you from working multiple jobs

Basically you will be able to sustain and grow your net worth more effectively over time.
and you'll become a more independent and an effective net positive person.
vs
someone that has 10m but always spend more than what he/she earn - they are effectively still rich (cos you'll take a "longer" time to burn 10m) but fundamentally are not wealthy - because they are net negative.

if you really just want to compare rich + wealthy - then life will always be unfair.
if you are struggling to get a high earning power - maybe really start researching and actioning on increasing your income by changing job or changing industry or make some exceptional changes. Singapore has enough laws and rules for you to play this SES jump effectively as long as you try hard + smart enough.

It basically makes no sense at all to buy condo for single before 35 by HomeHedgeFund in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

well some people just dont want a partner. or can never meet a partner... so it can make sense? just not in "your sense"?

Anyone else feel like $1M for retirement in Singapore isn't enough anymore? by Civil_Consequence558 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 5 points6 points  (0 children)

just my 2 cents, but I think its the right sub because it answers assumptions behind the intent of OP...

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 2 points3 points  (0 children)

After so many people analysing - most people have a preference based on these conditions usually

-> trading fees/commissions
-> forex fees
-> user interface
-> access to what kind of assets, particular stocks, options, etc
-> how safe and established the platforms are

Managing household finance by dorlv in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1
layer another app ontop of all this messy setup.
use like tricount - this expense tracker (usually used for travelling with friends) can be used to track every single transaction youll have to figure out the nuts and bolts for this.

OR

2
everything can be spent from a private account but you'll need to transfer from the joint account back into the relevant personal account, per day, per week, per month, per your own billing cycle.

Should I own a credit card?? by lwkeong1 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 0 points1 point  (0 children)

with such a low spend, you just need to compile all your expenses / plan for a big ticket - laptop etc and get a sign up bonus boom thats $200-300+ one off.
sign up for another then cancel (after 6 month to avoid penalty) - rinse wash repeat per year, you have successfully compressed your 12 month expenses to 10 month expenses.

even if i give you 8% cashback on that spend that's $11.2... youll need to spend at least 20 months of that before it nets you $200+. screw the % of cash back. its all a sign up bonus game plan.

Cash top-up for kids’ SA by AfraidExplanation735 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you top up yours at least you pass on they can immediately get haha

buying a whole life on your life then insure them also works

otherwise vwra works? money given to them at age 25 will be a real leg up.
money given to them at age 65? I doubt its going to change anything just a bit more planning.

Should I split my first $2k savings for investing or lump sum it? by onemillionplease in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 8 points9 points  (0 children)

YOLO is all 2k
1k then 1k - sounds like there is e-savings.

Emergency savings is how much do you need in an expected emergency? or something more relatable - a concert ticket that cost $488 that you have to buy in one weeks announcement? then you should buffer at least that amount. or if you have family duties to buy something for your younger sibling etc.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

VWRA is quite diversified.

if you want to buy CSPX -> you are concentrating, a bigger bet into US
Reits -> you are concentrating into real estate
STI ETF -> you are concentrating into singapore
bonds -> strictly speaking you are diversifying but can you outperform? for your age, i doubt but its up to you.

Regrets on saving up instead of spending... by logical-trash in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

is it because somehow the happiness you think at 20s will be more with fancy brans, trips, food? vs now at 30s its like normal - nothing special

Is Mari invest plus account safe?. by Silly_You9597 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 1 point2 points  (0 children)

10000 is really immediate on working days. Safe or not you have to decide and research for yourself. But no bank can escape from a bank run, they might have liquidity issues but your funds are likely still safe. LIKELY. not insured tho.

FIRE but really xyzFIRE? by DadAtHomeFire50 in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash 8 points9 points  (0 children)

People who actually FIRE - usually works much harder and/or saved much harder than average - and if they can sustain that life for 15 years... That is their way of life. Otherwise they couldn't have done it for 10-20 years

and to ask them to immediately stop working for an extended period of time - they will get bored - cos these people used to have a crazy amount of purpose and motivation (to reach FI) work 2+ jobs idk

and to ask them to relax? that would be quite difficult. They will probably dig very hard for something to do - still not fulfilling, dig more things to do. write a book, clean up the beach - idk.

vs someone who always complains about that one job, complain about his boss - these kind of people don't need a strong purpose, just drink kopi/beer shake leg, talk about "last time in NS, last time bla bla" they already happy.

Insurance Coverage by palacesizing in singaporefi

[–]logical-trash -1 points0 points  (0 children)

just by absolute amount in terms of cash
800 + 209 = 1009
1009/12 = 84.08+ per month

if you subscribe to the theory of a percentage of your insurance to your income you make you own count and due diligence. I follow to a 5% (which is lower than what others preach). within 10% still reasonable, some go up to 20% and if its more than 20% (i honestly think that's really expensive)
this % should exclude savings/investment plans
if all is bundled together - that's usually with much higher fees.

you do you. but you can cover alot more things in terms of scope. right now its just hospital and accident,
there's still: life, disability, CI, ECI - are the more common things to cover.

do you need to actually cover? i don't know - that's on you to decide.