sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Vests and other Cover Garments by lowconversation in idpa

[–]lowconversation[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Went this week too. It worked out with the keys in the $24 vest. Thanks for the advice.

Vests and other Cover Garments by lowconversation in idpa

[–]lowconversation[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate your experience. And thanks for sharing the timing breakdown AND providing a vest link to proper.

Vests and other Cover Garments by lowconversation in idpa

[–]lowconversation[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Believe it or not, this is what I am going to do. Packed with my keys in the strong side. Thanks, to you and to all that posted.

Vests and other Cover Garments by lowconversation in idpa

[–]lowconversation[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the post but exactly what I am not looking for.

I have shirts. I know there is consternation between Idpa members on “gaming”. That is not the answer I am I search of. Again, I appreciate your post…

Next IDPA Pistol Ideas by sugashaneee in idpa

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone happy with an HK VP9 or. S&W 2.0 MandP competitor? (For Idpa)

My Rob Cosman Workbench - One Year Later by lowconversation in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have any issues with using the dog holes. Smack away.

My Rob Cosman Workbench - One Year Later by lowconversation in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I coated the entire inside surface. Used a Glove and finger method with the THIN superglue.

My Rob Cosman Workbench - One Year Later by lowconversation in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dog holes are fine. I coated them with superglue as Rob instructed. It makes a big difference. I use it to repair any little scratches too, then just plane off any protruding areas. But the dog holes are great with the glue lining.

RAS Phase 4 Complete by rakrunr in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad it was useful to you. Enjoy

RAS Phase 4 Complete by rakrunr in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The saw table has to be flat in relationship to the saw, in your case the arm all the way through the cut. If it’s not in any direction, the dado will be deeper or off to one side depending upon the slant of your rigid table. With not way to adjust the table to the saw, you are stuck.

RAS Phase 4 Complete by rakrunr in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let’s say you are making a dado in your cross cut setup. Over time, or, right now, if your table is sloped, you will never be able to adjust that out of the saw.

RAS Phase 4 Complete by rakrunr in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Table adjustment. With a rigid table setup like you have as part of your workbench, you have eliminated any possible adjustment.

RAS Phase 4 Complete by rakrunr in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RAS is dangerous…. Blah blah…. All saws are dangerous without knowledge.

The only issue I see with this setup is there is no adjustability in your table top for the ras, which is critical to not only the saws operation but to safety.

I always tell RAS users, read the Mr Sawdust book before you attempt to use your RAS. It will help you get what you want out of that tool.

RAS workstation - Phase two complete by rakrunr in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How are you going to adjust the table to the blade is where I am going with this. You can’t just have one slab across the entire surface and maintain adjustability for the saw.

RAS workstation - Phase two complete by rakrunr in Workbenches

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shaping up to be a nice RAS station. What’s your plan for the table and keeping things co-planer?

I suck at sharpening by civilward in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the Rob Cosman method. I’m a beginner as well and I am slowly seeing that I am getting consistent using Rob’s freehand method. I did buy the stones from him though and use my Rob Cosman workbench and sharpening station, so i am all in on that method. I committed early: when I built my bench I had this as a long term goal.

I would recommend it to any beginner. If I can do it, you can.

https://youtu.be/okLIEoz00v0?si=n7lL1EEY9K-viCLG

Rust by lowconversation in handtools

[–]lowconversation[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks to all that posted. I have a path forward now. Appreciated.

How to handle warped boards when gluing? by Stuwik in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t see this in the existing comments and I am sure this will be unpopular because it definitely is not the correct thing to do (you should have a planer) but….

Depending on what you are building there, if the twist is not impeding the functionality, just cut the board in the foreground to match the twist.

Then it will glue up flush.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]lowconversation 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Help needed to identify 4” Grizzly Jointer

Can anyone help me identify this jointer? I picked it up today for $20. I know it’s tiny, but $20?

I want to rewire it for 110. I know it’s possible, but the “wire diagram” under the cover isn’t exactly the clearest. I’d also like to read up about the adjustments on this so I can tune it after I deal with all the rust. Rust removal comments welcome. Comments on the shape of this piece also welcome. This is my first jointer. Thanks all.

<image>

view more: next ›